Leaf spring removal

[Sens]

Hello Friends!

I am replacing the sub frame mounts of my Pagode 250SL.

In the description on this forum (Bob, bpossel) I learned that you have to remove the leaf springs to be able to lower the sub frame.

I always pay attention when I see the word spring...

I also repair watches and these little springs suddenly join the Swiss Air Space program and you are not able to find them anymore.

The one I am talking about now is slightly bigger. And that frightens me!

What is the best procedure to remove it?

Thanks for your help!!

[rwmastel]

... these little springs suddenly join the Swiss Air Space program ...

LOL!  Love it!

[Sens]

Any ideas about a safe way to remove the leaf spring?

Thanks!

Halvor

[rwmastel]

Sorry, haven't done that job.  Just appreciated your humor.  I don't know if that "spring" is under tension or not.  Maybe it just locates the sway bar in the proper fore/aft position?  If it were me (and it will be, sooner than later), I would just mark things where they are, and then start removing the sway bar bushing bolts, paying attention to staying out of the way in case it really pops off with some force.

Looks like you have a jack or a jack stand where that spring connect to the end of the sub-frame, if I understand those pics correctly.  So, this spring is connecting the end of the sub-frame to the body.  If you're supporting the sub-frame, and therefor the body on top of the sub-frame, then I don't see why this would move a lot when the bolts come off.

I'm sure dozens of members have done it and can give actual advice.

[Sead]

No tension on them.. just remove the two big nuts...

[Sens]

Thanks a lot for your answers guys, helps a lot!

Sead, you mean the 2 big nuts in the last picture?

Thanks!

[Pawel66]

As you now have answer to your primary question, I wanted to add that these leaf springs have critical importance to your wheel alignment. They influence the caster. They are screwed to bolts with cams in the frame. By turning those bolts you move the subframe to set the caster. I think it is a good practice to carefully mark your leaf springs location vs. Frame to fit them back as they were. Or just asssume you will perform alignment after the procedure.

Of course replacement of the rubber bushings may be a good idea. Their orientation while fitting the new ones is described in the forum. While selecting the supplier I follow the rule: buy rubber from Mercedes if only possible.

You may also take a quick look if the leaf springs you have are equal length. These cars have long history and things happen… The longer one will be the correct one.

[Sens]

Thanks for your useful comments!!

I will take care!

[Sead]

position them to 10 and 14h /10AM and 2PM and all will be fine

[Sens]

Hi Sead,

What do you mean exactly?

Is that the orientation of the adjusting bolt?

Or do you mean something else?

Thanks!!

[rwmastel]

Is this the cam bolt that adjusts camber?

[Sens]

This bolt is adjustable.

[rwmastel]

Interesting!  I will look under my car and see if I can make sense of it.

[Duncan200]

This bolt is adjustable.

Correct, the front bolt is eccentric and the rear bolt is slotted.

Doug.

[Pawel66]

Interesting!  I will look under my car and see if I can make sense of it.

You will not see those screws unless you remove leaf springs (picture). What Sead means, I suppose, is to set the front screws with cam on 10 o'clock (left) and 2 o'clock (right) to have initial ok setting. When you turn the front screw (with an arrow) it drugs along the entire subframe. That is how you set the caster.

For caster alignment you need to loosen everything that holds subframe, including cross member and drive shaft, if I remember correctly. This is to avoid creating of tensions in suspension as subframe moves. The fine tuning of caster angle is achieved via turning the upper front control arms slotted plates and bushings (not the screws, those are for camber). It is good to set those plates in mid position before playing with subframe - then you have room to turn them both ways. The procedure can be found on the Forum.

I am also attaching picture of the leaf spring bushing orientation.

Needles to say, the sway arm bushings can also be replaced while you are there.

Both pictures - courtesy of Members here.

[Sead]

You will not see those screws unless you remove leaf springs (picture). What Sead means, I suppose, is to set the front screws with cam on 10 o'clock (left) and 2 o'clock (right) to have initial ok setting. When you turn the front screw (with an arrow) it drugs along the entire subframe. That is how you set the caster.

For caster alignment you need to loosen everything that holds subframe, including cross member and drive shaft, if I remember correctly. This is to avoid creating of tensions in suspension as subframe moves. The fine tuning of caster angle is achieved via turning the upper front control arms slotted plates and bushings (not the screws, those are for camber). It is good to set those plates in mid position before playing with subframe - then you have room to turn them both ways. The procedure can be found on the Forum.

I am also attaching picture of the leaf spring bushing orientation.

Needles to say, the sway arm bushings can also be replaced while you are there.

Both pictures - courtesy of Members here.

all you need to know. Thy Pawel..

[Peter van Es]

Pawel to the rescue... Again! Thanks for your contributions Pawel66

[rwmastel]

For caster alignment you need to loosen everything that holds subframe, including cross member and drive shaft, if I remember correctly. This is to avoid creating of tensions in suspension as subframe moves.

So, when us ham-fisted amateurs decide to try a new thing and replace the sub-frame mounts, is it recommended to loosen all these things to make it an easier job, but requiring a complex wheel alignment task later?  Or leave everything fixed and work carefully through the mount replacement job?