Sun Visor - Parchment Interior Question?

[Tx246]

I know much has been discussed about Sun Visors....

I have a 1970 California Coupe with Parchment interior -144.

I can live with my current original Sun Visors, but they are worn/old/flappy/etc....
I am happy to buy something new, but have no idea what I s correct.

What I have looks original (BUT crap and old), but also looks the same color as the interior, Parchment.

I have just redone the seats from GAHH

Thoughts/Input?

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I couldn’t find it

[TJMart]

Tx 246,

As a start search for "Sun visor" and you will get a lot of results that will give you an idea of what is correct, original etc.

My 1970 has cream color visors with no mirror even though my interior is black.

Perhaps post pictures of what condition yours are in and several others will chime in.

Tony

[GM]

See https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=3127.0
As Achim describes, "There were and are different colors for the sunvisors: three for the 280 (tan, light beige and light grey, and two for the 230 (light beige and light grey)."
When I redid my visors, that were gray, I sprayed them with SEM Classic Coat flexible coating Silver Gray #17353 and they looked great

[Pawel66]

What you can also do is check if you find your car in the factory colors specs. They were discussed on the forum several times. Example attached.

The sunshade color, actually, may depend on upholstery code, well, whatever it is, it is there. If your VIN does not fit to the attached, we have more of those sheets, when you provide your VIN and upholstery code, I can check if we have specs for it.

In the attached you see that the Sonnenblende color was light grey or beige depending on upholstery code.

It is for VIN as of 012089 till end of production.

[dennismeyer]

Good morning ------- I am new to the group happy to happy to have found it.  Have owned my 280SL since 1976. Can you recommend new replacement visors for the originals? Mine have degraded over time and I am looking for replacements that are historically correct and available ----- both right and left. Thank you , dennis

Also ---- after owning the car for all these years - I still do prefer its lines to most other 2 seaters. I am recently retired and want to repair to safe driving standards. Car has been garaged always - but time takes its toll.

Needs a power steering rebuild. Also needs some control arm bushings an stabilize bushings.
Needs a new convertible top. Car is German Silver with Navy interior and top? can you recommend a supplier for like original purchase? also on the top - both hard and soft top need the seals ---old are dry rotted. I also need new storage compartment seals.

Cosmetically - the wood trim is in bad shape, the glove box light lenses is cracked, the clock - not working and the odometer needs some care. I have read through many of the comments ------ quartz vs. original?

Is there a website of available oem parts ? are there other manufacturers moog, Bosch that will substitute?

I have found Timevalve in Florida for the exhaust. Mike was very helpful.

Also ---- gasket replacements for the engine? and transmission gaskets? Also, the transmission mount is worn. Rear axle top mount is also worn.

There seem to be many sets of rubber seals available ---- can anyone recommend one company over another?

I would be appreciated for any thought, comments and recommendations. It has 78,000 miles. I want it to be a regular ----- enjoyable driver and not a concourse specimen. Also ---if there are any mistakes that I can learn from, please mention.

I have enjoyed the many photos and can see all the work, attention to detail, care and enjoyment these cars have provided. Happy motoring --- dennis meyer

[MikeSimon]

Tx 246,

The correct color for the sun visor is to match your hard top headliner and not the seat color.

Tony

what if your car does not have a hard-top. It was an option, you know!

[JamesL]

There’s a lot there Dennis that you may want to separate and ask in the relevant forum. Better still, use the search function (on which you can set a parameter of a specific forum). There’s also the tech manual and it has a supplier list - https://gahh.com/ for the soft-top for example. And general consensus is rubber is best if it’s Mercedes (rather than aftermarket) where possible.

Good morning ------- I am new to the group happy to happy to have found it.  Have owned my 280SL since 1976. Can you recommend new replacement visors for the originals? Mine have degraded over time and I am looking for replacements that are historically correct and available ----- both right and left. Thank you , dennis

Also ---- after owning the car for all these years - I still do prefer its lines to most other 2 seaters. I am recently retired and want to repair to safe driving standards. Car has been garaged always - but time takes its toll.

Needs a power steering rebuild. Also needs some control arm bushings an stabilize bushings.
Needs a new convertible top. Car is German Silver with Navy interior and top? can you recommend a supplier for like original purchase? also on the top - both hard and soft top need the seals ---old are dry rotted. I also need new storage compartment seals.

Cosmetically - the wood trim is in bad shape, the glove box light lenses is cracked, the clock - not working and the odometer needs some care. I have read through many of the comments ------ quartz vs. original?

Is there a website of available oem parts ? are there other manufacturers moog, Bosch that will substitute?

I have found Timevalve in Florida for the exhaust. Mike was very helpful.

Also ---- gasket replacements for the engine? and transmission gaskets? Also, the transmission mount is worn. Rear axle top mount is also worn.

There seem to be many sets of rubber seals available ---- can anyone recommend one company over another?

I would be appreciated for any thought, comments and recommendations. It has 78,000 miles. I want it to be a regular ----- enjoyable driver and not a concourse specimen. Also ---if there are any mistakes that I can learn from, please mention.

I have enjoyed the many photos and can see all the work, attention to detail, care and enjoyment these cars have provided. Happy motoring --- dennis meyer

[MikeSimon]

  And general consensus is rubber is best if it’s Mercedes (rather than aftermarket) where possible.

I am always amused about the voiced cautions to buy only OEM (Mercedes) parts. Mercedes Benz is not a parts manufacturer. Today less than in the 50s/60s. And especially rubber parts are not made by MB. They buy the stuff from the same companies the large aftermarket distributors buy from. While you probably should try to avoid really cheap stuff from 3rd World countries or even China and India, as there is very little quality assurance in these places, anything from a reputable parts house in Europe or the USA is perfectly fine. Most parts manufacturers have a limited time contract which forces them to make parts available to MB (usually 15 years), after the end of the contract, it is open season. Even during the supply to the OEM, many parts manufacturers sell the same parts without the MB logo and markings into the independent aftermarket. If you are very concerned about concours correct original appearance and you thrive the crowd with the blue blazers and straw hats, you should buy Mercedes parts, like all the rubber hoses with the star and part number printed on it. I will not. My car runs the same as yours.

[dirkbalter]

I am always amused about the voiced cautions to buy only OEM (Mercedes) parts. Mercedes Benz is not a parts manufacturer. Today less than in the 50s/60s. And especially rubber parts are not made by MB. They buy the stuff from the same companies the large aftermarket distributors buy from. While you probably should try to avoid really cheap stuff from 3rd World countries or even China and India, as there is very little quality assurance in these places, anything from a reputable parts house in Europe or the USA is perfectly fine. Most parts manufacturers have a limited time contract which forces them to make parts available to MB (usually 15 years), after the end of the contract, it is open season. Even during the supply to the OEM, many parts manufacturers sell the same parts without the MB logo and markings into the independent aftermarket. If you are very concerned about concours correct original appearance and you thrive the crowd with the blue blazers and straw hats, you should buy Mercedes parts, like all the rubber hoses with the star and part number printed on it. I will not. My car runs the same as yours.

Even though I agree that aftermarket parts when you can identify the manufacturer are usually cheaper and the same quality. But when buying non OEM sensitive rubber components (Window /Doors), its a bit of a gamble. I just went through this with the soft top / hard top front seals. The MB rubber was clearly better with respect to fit and feel. The same applies to sheet metal parts IMO. The aftermarket supplier will usually not tell you where their parts are coming from unless it is OEM, in which case you can but it from MB for less.
   

[MikeSimon]

I agree for sheet metal. These parts usually come off the original stamping molds from the OEM. However, there is definitely a limited amount available. Unless the OEM sells/transfers these blanks to another company which continues to make the parts for them, the inventory is eventually depleted, and you have no choice than buying repop.

[Jack the Knife]

I also just wouldn't trust the modern Daimler-Benz company any more than other companies with a decent return policy. As Mike says, they aren't what they were. And often OEMs say something is "the same" but we've all been there where it isn't. Bosch gas shocks come to mind. Had this experience with leathers, too. Sometimes the OEM part isn't any good. Wiring harnesses from DB 20 years ago, for instance, or any of soft touch plastics from the European companies. Unless you like black gunk all over your hands on a hot day..

Buyer beware, as always, from anyone.. don't blindly buy the brand.

[TJMart]

What you can also do is check if you find your car in the factory colors specs. They were discussed on the forum several times. Example attached.

The sunshade color, actually, may depend on upholstery code, well, whatever it is, it is there. If your VIN does not fit to the attached, we have more of those sheets, when you provide your VIN and upholstery code, I can check if we have specs for it.

In the attached you see that the Sonnenblende color was light grey or beige depending on upholstery code.

It is for VIN as of 012089 till end of production.

Pawel,

Thanks for the information! As usual your posts are always informative.

My 1970 280SL vin number is 013110 and my interior code is 131 black mbtex.
Can you let me know if the visors are supposed to be light gray or beige?

Thanks,

Tony

[Landan]

Tony,
Sun visors are coloured to match the hard top liner.  280sl visors were sort of beige/cream, in fact not dissimilar to parchment.
One of the failures points besides foam decay is the metal crimp which is tightened by the screw. Crimp metal fatigue or screw failure mean the visor can no longer maintain its horizontal position.  If you visors maintain position I think they're a good candidate for renovation.

If you do get them renovated, the best finish is achieved by reverse stitching them ie stiches on the inside and gluing the final side adjacent to the windshield.
You need to use a synthetic material as they can withstand the elements/sunlight much better.

I know much has been discussed about Sun Visors....

I have a 1970 California Coupe with Parchment interior -144.

I can live with my current original Sun Visors, but they are worn/old/flappy/etc....
I am happy to buy something new, but have no idea what I s correct.

What I have looks original (BUT crap and old), but also looks the same color as the interior, Parchment.

I have just redone the seats from GAHH

Thoughts/Input?

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I couldn’t find it

[Tx246]

Just for an update,

I bought a set of repro sun visors/clips from vintageeuroparts.com

They were $185.00

The biggest difference was the clips. I kept my old clips in place. On the visors, the originals have a “bar” where it attaches to the clips, the repro has a heat seamed area that follows the same profile as the visor. The repro slid into the original clips no issue. If I didn’t know the difference, I don’t think I would ever notice. However, these are new, who knows what years of use would do to this look.

In terms of colors, I can’t really tell the difference just glancing. No reason I would examine better other than for this reason. The color between cream and parchment is minimal. Not something to ignore for show scoring, but for basic fun driver stuff, no hesitation to do it again.

All and all, I am super happy for my very nice driver. For concours stuff, I can’t comment. I just wanted to follow up with my experience and end result.

My only regret is waiting so long to order because I was over-thinking everything.

[Pawel66]

My 1970 280SL vin number is 013110 and my interior code is 131 black mbtex.
Can you let me know if the visors are supposed to be light gray or beige?

Thanks,

Tony

We have these specs for leather upholstery, I am afraid. If it were my car, however, I would be pretty sure that the colors would be the same as for 241, which is 9000 Schwarz, with sunshades and handles being 7005 Hellgrau (light gray).

[zoegrlh]

If original MB stock, or aftermarket, new sunvisors look great on the car. No more sagging look, nice and firm. Post a photo.

[Tx246]

The color difference is less notable in person.

[Tx246]

Same for color difference, more pronounced in pictures than real life.

I am VERY happy with the end result.

[zoegrlh]

They look great. Not noticeable for color.

[Tx246]

Outside Pics

[Tx246]

Once again, the camera captures more of a difference than the eye does when it comes to colors, but overall a pretty darn good result