Author Topic: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one  (Read 43902 times)

A Dalton

  • Guest
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #50 on: October 26, 2004, 17:44:21 »
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber

Rodd, I think there were five different types for the 230SL.

IFUR.6 0.231.116 046  230/second version - vac advance
IFUR.6 0.231.116 047   230/third version - vac retard
IFUR.6 0.231.116 050   230/second version  -vac advance
IFUR.6 0.231.116 051   230/forth version,250/first version -vac retard
and the earliest (and rarest I understand):
VJUR.6.BR49T which I have in my 1963. -230/ First version-vac advance

Fortunately it has never given me any trouble.

James
63 230SL


 James
 I used your chart to add the different versions and the advance/retard systems used.
 Tnx
« Last Edit: October 27, 2004, 13:57:59 by A Dalton »

J. Huber

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Cedar Ridge
  • Posts: 3061
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #51 on: October 27, 2004, 14:52:58 »
No problem A.D.

Your enhanced version sheds important light on the changes as they occurred. Good job.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Bob G ✝︎

  • Guest
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #52 on: October 28, 2004, 12:54:32 »
I need some help. I am reto fitting a 051 bosch distributor back into my 1968 280SL. I called the Bosch hot line to ask if they had a parts break down of this distributor so I can see what parts will be needed to do the conversion. Some of the parts like the hex key bolts and distributor collar are needed.
If anyone has this information and can make me a copy I would very much appreciate it.
Thank You
Bob Geco
« Last Edit: October 28, 2004, 14:53:04 by Bob G »

DavidAPease

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, CA, Chico
  • Posts: 385
  • Audit Committee
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #53 on: August 27, 2005, 13:34:06 »
While at the Tech Session last month, Pete Lesler pointed out that I have the same aluminum distributor in my 1966 230SL as he does, one that he says uses the same points as a Mercedes V8 engine.  Well, I decided today to buy a new cap, rotor, and points just for "safety", and thought I'd better find out what distributor I actually have.  I expected to find the "009", but didn't.  My distributor part number is 0 231 185 008!  (Or, my eyesight is much worse than I thought...)  

I have searched all over the forum, and the web in general, for this part number, and can't find it anywhere.  Has anyone ever seen/heard of an "008" distributor?  (If so, do you happen to have a part number for the points?)  Thanks!

-David Pease
'66 French 230SL
-David Pease
 '66 230SL (Originally sold in Paris)

Bearcat

  • Guest
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #54 on: August 28, 2005, 02:08:08 »
MASHINTER: “I tell clients to add a little 2 stroke oil (outboard motor type oil) to their gas every third or fourth tank full.  This is preferable to automatic transmission fluid [recommended elsewhere] as it is made to be burned as it lubricates.  Fuel line cleaners create more debris than they can remove.”

Are you guys adding 2 stoke oil to your gas fills?

J. Huber

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Cedar Ridge
  • Posts: 3061
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #55 on: August 28, 2005, 08:07:53 »
Never heard of that. Nor do I believe much in any additive. I think using the best "petrol" you can is the way to go for our cars.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Naj ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
  • Posts: 3163
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #56 on: August 29, 2005, 08:34:48 »
Hi, David,
 
quote:
My distributor part number is 0 231 185 008!


0 231 185 008 superceded 0 231 116 049 which is a distributor for a 220 SEb, still a vacuum advance distributor with a centrifugal advance curve slightly different from the 230 SL version 2 distributor 0 231 116 046.

Does not answer your question but...

BTW what is your engine number?

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL
68 280SL

DavidAPease

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, CA, Chico
  • Posts: 385
  • Audit Committee
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #57 on: August 29, 2005, 22:41:43 »
Hi, Naj,

Thanks!  At least I know I'm not delusional (or the British term I love, "mental").  Armed with that info, maybe I'll be able to find the correct points part number.

My engine number (original) is 127981-12-003868.  (Seems a pretty low engine number for chassis number 015461.  Perhaps there were relatively few automatics made by early '66?)

-David Pease
'66 French 230SL
-David Pease
 '66 230SL (Originally sold in Paris)

Naj ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
  • Posts: 3163
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #58 on: August 30, 2005, 07:45:45 »
Hi, David,
 
quote:
Perhaps there were relatively few automatics made by early '66?

Yes, I would agree.
The change over to vac retard for manual engines was 010786 while for autos it was 2991.

 
quote:
My engine number (original) is 127981-12-003868


Going by the above numbers, should you not have a vac retard distributor or do you have the correct vac advance throttle body?

naj

« Last Edit: August 31, 2005, 04:01:39 by naj »
68 280SL

WillS

  • Guest
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #59 on: August 30, 2005, 11:57:15 »
Hello,
I'm new to the list and wanted to say thank you much for the good help available here.  I gave my 71 280SL to a Mercedes "expert" here in Western Washington to do an oil change, and to deal with heavy pinging on any kind of acceleration.  Well, he left out the upper filter element seal (the "garden hose" seal) and the car still pings badly.  Time to do it myself.  The list educated me about the often missing seals for the oil filter and also how the distributor advance system works.  I purchased the filter seals from my Mercedes dealer and my distributor is on its way to Dan Caron for overhaul.  Couldn't have done it without you folks.  I've attached a scan of the wiring schematic for the distributor retard (for my car) relay box that helped to analyse my ignition problems.  If I've made any mistakes in the schematic, please let me know.  Apologies if I posted this in the wrong place.

Thanks,
Will N. Stevenson


Download Attachment: 1971_280SL_RelayBox.jpg
54.57 KB

DavidAPease

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, CA, Chico
  • Posts: 385
  • Audit Committee
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #60 on: August 31, 2005, 10:08:58 »
Naj,

My car runs beautifully, so I can only guess that it is set up correctly.  Still, if you can tell me how to check which throttle body setup I have, I'd appreciate it.

-David Pease
'66 French 230SL
-David Pease
 '66 230SL (Originally sold in Paris)

Naj ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
  • Posts: 3163
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #61 on: August 31, 2005, 11:19:33 »
Hi, David,
On the vac advance, the vac pick-up on the throttle body is in front of the throttle valve (air filter side) and there is zero vac at idling (throttle valve fully closed). Its also located on top of the body, (see picture)
Download Attachment: 230_3.JPG
36.95 KB

On the vac retard, there is high vac reading at idle and the pick-up is almost under and to the right of the valve body.

Download Attachment: 067.JPG
35.8 KB

Ignorance is bliss  :?:

naj
« Last Edit: August 31, 2005, 11:24:34 by naj »
68 280SL

J. Huber

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Cedar Ridge
  • Posts: 3061
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #62 on: August 31, 2005, 12:02:10 »
Nice pictures Naj. You might want to keep the second one on hand when/if anyone wonders where the VIN number is stamped - it shows it pretty clearly...

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Naj ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
  • Posts: 3163
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #63 on: August 31, 2005, 12:52:39 »
Hmmm, James,
The picture was taken for the Vin but served a different purpose today. :D

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL
68 280SL

J. Huber

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Cedar Ridge
  • Posts: 3061
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #64 on: August 31, 2005, 16:04:09 »
Glad you are one step ahead of me Naj...

I just looked at my throttle body and it resembles your first picture. Although mine has a clear plastic tube (about 1/8) that runs over to distributor. Sound right for an early dist? And am I right mine is an advance type?

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

DavidAPease

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, CA, Chico
  • Posts: 385
  • Audit Committee
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #65 on: August 31, 2005, 22:14:17 »
Hi, Naj,

My throttle body looks just like photo number 1 (vacuum advance) except:
- the raised casting where the hose is connected on your photo is just a solid piece on mine - there's nothing to connect a hose to or for vacuum to pass through (so to speak)
- my vacuum hose connects on the very bottom of the throttle body, two ribs further aft (that is, even with rib number 2 instead of number 4, if you think of the raised lines in the casting as ribs)

On another subject, if this is a photo of a 230SL, I wouldn't expect to see that water-heated ring between the throttle body and the air intake hose - we heard at Blacklick that those were only standard on 280SLs.

Thanks again for the help (and yes, ignorance can be bliss),

-David Pease
'66 French 230SL
-David Pease
 '66 230SL (Originally sold in Paris)

Naj ✝︎

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • United Kingdom, Surrey, New Malden
  • Posts: 3163
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #66 on: September 01, 2005, 02:46:12 »
Hi, James,
 
quote:
Although mine has a clear plastic tube (about 1/8) that runs over to distributor. Sound right for an early dist? And am I right mine is an advance type?


Yes, most engines have the white plastic tube running from the throttle body to dist. with just a small rubber bit at the throttle body end to connect up.

BTW, is yours an auto?

Hi, David,
 
quote:
I wouldn't expect to see that water-heated ring between the throttle body and the air intake hose


Don't know when the heater rings came in on the throttle body. My 230 does not have it.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL
68 280SL

hands_aus

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Australia, Queensland, Brisbane
  • Posts: 1543
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #67 on: September 01, 2005, 05:52:23 »
my early 250sl has the heater ring

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL #114, auto, ps , 717,717
best of the best

Ricardo

  • Guest
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #68 on: September 01, 2005, 07:00:34 »
My early 250 does as well
Richard

J. Huber

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, Cedar Ridge
  • Posts: 3061
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #69 on: September 01, 2005, 08:15:50 »
Yes Naj. Auto. It has the plastic tubing except for maybe 3 inches of original weaved hose.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Old iron distributor vs. new alu one
« Reply #70 on: September 01, 2005, 09:18:37 »
It may interest everyone to know that there were at least 5 different intake manifolds used on 113 cars, 3 or 4 different throttle valves and about 5 or 6 different distributors.

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org
  1 877 661 6061
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC