Author Topic: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!  (Read 6396 times)

waltklatt

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Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« on: December 12, 2005, 14:13:09 »
Does anyone else have the same problem as me?
When I raise and lower the softtop, the top is rubbing on the drivers side agains the rubber strip that seals out the water from the top compartment.  I have put a new gasket there and the cloth covering is already worn out to the point of being ripped to shreds.  I have tried to curl the top fabric or fold it back but no avail.  Is this a common problem?  Or is there something that I am doing wrong?
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel new top on
1963 230SL-top frame missing.

J. Huber

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2005, 14:35:33 »
Hi Walt. This very thing has kept me from springing for (another) new soft-top. You see, I replaced mine a while back and sure enough it got knicked up because of what you have described. Others have talked of a plastic shoe horn to help -- but fact remains, the top is very tight right against that seal. By the way, I also replaced the seal, only to have the top tear that up. So its a two-pronged problem...

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

waltklatt

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2005, 15:10:26 »
Hello James,
Thanks for the piping in.
I'm puzzled as it only occurs on the drivers side.  The passenger side is still as pristine as the day I installed both the new gasket and top.  No problems there.
Oh well, guess I'll have to live with it for now till I can brainstorm a good solution.
Thanks
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel
1963 230SL
« Last Edit: December 12, 2005, 15:10:44 by waltklatt »

Jonny B

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2005, 15:53:44 »
Wlat, interesting point about the difference from side to side. On mine, (and even on the 107 I had) that particular spot is an issue. I use a heavy plastic (not too thick - sorry no mm spec)page liner, as from a binder or notebook, that I put in the space between the top and the gasket. I also have cut up a milk carton to help the top slide by that contact point. Sorry I don't have a more elegant solution.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

Mike

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2005, 17:48:56 »
Hi Walt.  I too had this problem but mine was on the passenger side.  The soft top frame can be adjusted slightly by loosening the four bolts that hold it in place.  As I recall, there is adjustment fore/aft and left/right.  Seems like yours could stand to be adjusted slightly.

Michael L. Hund

Ben

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2005, 03:19:40 »
Yeah m ine did the same on one side. Left a slight abrasion on one side of my then new top !

You can adjust it but a good restorer over here said to lightly tap the metal in this area with a rubber mallet. There may be sharp projections from a previous repair, or dare I say it rust.

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

waltklatt

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2005, 15:09:04 »
Hi Ben, Mike and Jonny,
I will try the adjustment to shift the top frame over a bit.  Might be a scant few mm.
Also had to adjust the top to move it forward as the glass would barely touch the rubber gasket.  Will also open up the doors to adjust the glass.  Seems too tight to the front.
Thanks,
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel
1963 230SL-gas

rwmastel

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2005, 15:54:01 »
quote:
Originally posted by waltklatt

Will also open up the doors to adjust the glass.  Seems too tight to the front.
If you have a hard top, you should adjust the glass to that, then adjust the soft top to the properly located glass.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420
Rodd

Did you search the forum before asking?
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BHap

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2005, 21:07:58 »
I keep two pieces of cardboard inside the convertible top compartment and put them between the seal and the top when lowering or raising...  unless of course it's raining...  which is why my new seal shows wear as well....

Bob Happe
Pittsburgh, Pa
1970 280SL, white/black 4 speed
Bob Happe
Pittsburgh, Pa
1970 280SL, white/black 4 speed

waltklatt

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #9 on: December 16, 2005, 13:44:45 »
Thanks to all who put answers to my mystery.
I looked through my literature and found an article from the factory on how to adjust the windows and some softtop modifications.  Will look through them and follow accordingly.
Happy Holidays to all!
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel
1963 230SL-gas

RBurg

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #10 on: December 17, 2005, 08:35:23 »
Very interesting discussion on the soft top - seems like it a rather  common problem.
I am having the same problem with the soft top fitting snug.
Would you mind posting the information on adjustment of the soft top for the benfit of the rest of us?
 
I won't get to it until Spring (GIGI is in a nice warm storage warehouse at 65 degrees wile it nice and cold out side right now at
2 degrees above zero.

Merry Christmas & Happy New to everyone :D

Ron
71 280SL Tobacco "O GIGI"
97 E420 Silver Mist

signalred280sl

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #11 on: December 19, 2005, 14:33:08 »
Take your hand and curl it around the inside top edge of the soft top compartment starting at the very front at the hinge area then continue to feel the inside curved area as you carefully slide your hand slowly around the corner adjacent to the trunk and on across to the center of the trunk. Repeat on the other side. I found mine to be considerably rough in the inside curved area with many sharp protruding edges especially near the hinges. I used a small abrasive metal cutting disk in a dremel tool to carefully grind away all the sharp edges so that the metal was smooth to the touch all the way. Finish with black spray paint then go to Lowes in their tape counter and you will find a wide black vinyl tape about 1 inch in width. Stick the tape all along the area you have reworked to give it a really smooth finish. Before you lower the top into the compartment lay a 1 quart size zip lock bag over each side at the hinge area (2 people work better at this) and as the top goes into the compartment it will slip very easily over the vinyl baggie.

My top has trouble folding compactly enough to allow the top metal cover to snap down properly after the canvas top is nestled into the compartment. This problem was cured by buying two canvas belts from an Army/Navy store and fixing them on each side of the compartment with two brackets, each  made from two large picture hanger brackets nested together for strength and covered together with shrink tubing. A pair of brackets was mounted on the bottom of each side of the compartment using 8-32 screws and nuts so the each canvas belt would be constrained to the bottom of the compartment but able to move front to back so that when the top was loaded into the compartment each side could be buckled down with the belts. With the belts being able to move, the buckles can be shifted so as not to harm anything or be in the way.

Finally, to be sure that when you want to raise the soft top, it can be picked up as one unit completely to a vertical position, I always have a canvas belt without the buckle laying in each side of the compartment, with the ends front to back, when I lower the top into the compartment. That way when you want to lift the top you can grab both ends of the belt and pull up the entire top all at one time. Again, it helps if there is another person on the other side doing the same thing with the other belt. You all know what happens if you don't pull up the ENTIRE top out of the compartment at one time!

Another hint - to prevent the rear vinyl window from creasing. While you are at Lowes buy one length of foam rubber pipe insulation like is used to insulate air conditioning lines to your home HVAC unit. Get one that is about 2 or 3 inches in outside diameter. Go to a sock store and buy a pair of childrens long knee-length fuzzy winter socks. Cut off about 3 feet of the pipe insulation and thread one sock over each end so that they overlap in the middle. As you lower the top into the compartment put the sock covered insulation thingie into the fold of the rear window as it goes down. As a final note - I have found the Maguire's vinyl care kit to be superb in bringing back to life an older vinyl window.

Apologize for being so long-winded. Have a happy holiday!
Les 1970 280SL

JamesL

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2005, 15:05:58 »
I have prevented further damage to my roof by cutting up a PET (2litre soda) bottle

Two lengthways halves of the cylinder part - no top or bottom - live in my roof-well and ease the raising an lowering no end, much in the same way as a ziplock would. Only indestructable!
James L
Oct69 RHD 280 in DB906 with cognac leather

Bearcat

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Re: Lowering the softtop-ohhh!
« Reply #13 on: December 20, 2005, 04:29:36 »
i damaged my previous soft top from it catching.....the way i do it now and it never catches is to satnd on the 2 front seats and grab the bow from the middle where it comes out unobstructed.