Heater levers, one more time!

[n/a]

Folks,

I'm slowly working through getting my old rubber levers out and new, plastic ones in. I'm working through the speaker and radio openings. I've also removed the clock, have the center and right-hand trim pieces off, along with the lower right lever. It seems that, to get the left-hand piece of chrome trim off, I need to remove the cigar lighter. I'm having trouble getting the connector off the back of the lighter. Any tips on that? Other suggestions on the process would be greatly appreciated. The tech tips, BTW, have been a great help.

Thanks.

John

John Livingston
Newport News, VA
1968 280SL 4 speed manual

[tuultyme]

I could not figure out how to remove the cigarette lighter either so I used a small nut driver with a small extension to remove the left nut.  I reached though the glove box opening and in behind the level unit.  I also used a small mirror to help "see" where the nut was located.

Bruce; Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL

[JamesL]

[!][!][!][!]

Damn you

I have now got that damn awful Britney Spears song in my head

Heat er leave ers one more time!

[!][!][:p]

[dldubois]

I replaced my heater levers last year and went through the same process.   It was difficult to get the connector off and I ended up sliding a small flathead screwdriver under the base of the connector and was able to pop it off.  There was then a nut that releases the mount from the lighter.

Good luck

Dana

1970 280sl Ivory 4spd
Corinth, TX

[n/a]

Thanks to all. I did get the lighter out and, eventually, the rest of the trim off. Pray I can get it all back together again!
There seems to be some lubricant between the plastic levers and the center, clear plastic column. Any suggestions on what to use?

John Livingston
Newport News, VA
1968 280SL 4 speed manual

[n/a]

I used white lithium grease, and it seems to work ok.
Any other suggestions?

[rwmastel]

I've never had these things apart and in my hands, but looking down from the speaker hole it looks like the little light bulbs in the center columns emit light through the columns and into the edges of the controls (disks) where they touch the columns.  The light travels from the inside edge of the disk and out the front to make the disks visible at night.  At least that's how I understand it to work.

Wouldn't grease or anything else between the two surfaces impede the light?  They're only 2 watts to begin with, I would think that the light path should be as clean as possible.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[TA250SL]

Try clear silicone spray lubricant, it comes in a spray can.

[n/a]

The silicone can is handy, so I'll probably give that a try. I'd say the white lithium grease, though, seems pretty close to what's been on there 36 years.

Thanks!

John

John Livingston
Newport News, VA
1968 280SL 4 speed manual

[jakl]

John, I had a difficult time extracting the cigarette lighter.  I ended up spreading the flat metal bracket enough so that I could push the cigar lighter out of the dash.  Then I was able to grasp and turn it while I wedged a flat screwdriver between the prongs of the rear connector. This crude technique worked and I was able to unscrew and remove it.
    The clear cup that passes between the heater levers should have a thin lubricant on it.  I was afraid white lithium or petroleum jelly would be too think.  I used a thin oil and spread it around cup.  Whatever choice of lubricant, spread it thin and check levers for movement.  Be sure not to overtighten the screw on top half of cup.  I cracked mine and bottom half of cup kept dropping off.  I repaired it and will reassmble passenger side tonight.
     
Regards,
-jakl

[DerekJ]

Hi Folks, Is it the time of year, "heat=heater levers" or is it that we in the cold North or Eastern US are really ready for warmth to return? I'm glad I'm not alone.  I'm also in the process of changing my levers. The cigarette lighter tip should be helpful. I don't have a center speaker and I've already removed the glovebox, clock and radio and spkr grill but then the problem[!]. I read some discussion about the clear plastic lighting column, my right side unit is cracked at the top where it screws into the light housing, has anyone seen that before, any thoughts on why it cracked?
Thanks for the tips,
Derek
 

quote:Originally posted by johnlivingston

Folks,

I'm slowly working through getting my old rubber levers out and new, plastic ones in. I'm working through the speaker and radio openings. I've also removed the clock, have the center and right-hand trim pieces off, along with the lower right lever. It seems that, to get the left-hand piece of chrome trim off, I need to remove the cigar lighter. I'm having trouble getting the connector off the back of the lighter. Any tips on that? Other suggestions on the process would be greatly appreciated. The tech tips, BTW, have been a great help.

Thanks.

John

John Livingston
Newport News, VA
1968 280SL 4 speed manual

[jakl]

Hi Derekj,  the reason mine cracked is because I overtightened it upon reassembly.  The broken piece was still screwed into the lower clear cup.  I was able to successfully glue it and reinforce it with some epoxy.  It should work - I'll try to install it tonight.  This was a difficult job, but I'm glad I did it myself.  Good luck!
Regards,
-jakl

[jakl]

Derekj,  just to clarify, when I said I glued the piece, I mean I repaired the cracked top half and then gently screwed it to the bottom clear cup.
-jakl

[n/a]

I'm at the point in my lever work where I've got the two lower levers out and have removed the three dash trim pieces. I've got the center cap screws out of the two upper levers, have pulled out the light assemblies, and am wondering what to do next. There appears to be a second screw holding the upper levers in. Is that correct? Boy, it's tempting to order a new gasket and pull the darned windshield just to get better access from the top of the dash.  But I guess I have enough irons in the fire as it is!

John

John Livingston
Newport News, VA
1968 280SL 4 speed manual

[Naj ✝︎]

Yes, John
The top covers are in 2 pieces. The top one insulates the bare wires to the 2 pin connector and holds the lamps in place. The lower one screws to the clear column.
BTW, I chose not to use any lubricant between the clear column and the levers.

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[DerekJ]

Good Morning Folks,
Thanks for your replies to my note, I can see we'll have a lot to write about. To the topic, I'm a fan of Radio Shack's (silicon based) Lube Gel and I'll used it carefully on the plastice tubes,along with lithium on the cables. If your curious search the Lube Gel on the web. A lot of info is avail on it re. properties and applications.   John-Read in an earlier note someone used a flat blade screw driver and a small mirror to pry off the cig lighter connection.
To your note, every time I've started a project on my "Gal" I find it hard to answer, how far to go with the project.  Having these parts out now I see where I repaired the duct work 8 years ago, refinished the wood 2yrs ago, but the windshield, that was 10yrs ago. I've found one advantage with our SL's is being able to take on another piece of the puzzle each session. Thanks

[DerekJ]

Hi Jakl,
That's very helpful scoop. I suppose age or previous servicing might have caused the tube to crack or maybe someone over tightened the screw. I'm glad to know you've had success with epoxy. I still have the get the monster out of the dash. Slow going in a cold garage.  I bought my levers from a fella on Ebay ( a jeweler down in Baltimore) who remanufacters them nicely. He owns 5 sl's and also offer advice when I got to the point on the install.  Thanks,

[113gray]

Hi Derek, the newly remanufactured levers from the guy in Baltimore might be interesting/useful to some of us. Can you give some detail? What the cost was, contact info, whatever? I assume these were the "hard" type levers, not the ones with the soft handles? Thanks,    -JP-

[bjudd]

" I wedged a flat screwdriver between the prongs of the...  I was able to unscrew and remove it."
" I ended up sliding a small flathead screwdriver under the base of the connector and was able to pop it off."

I'm working on getting the lighter out. I have the nut loose, the connector end impedes its removal.  I'm unclear whether it "pops off" or has to be screwd off.

Also having truble removing the left of the three escutcheon nuts.  I can get a 11mm ratcheting wrench on it and it isn't budging with significant pressure.  I dripped some penetrating oil on it for the night.  Other ideas?

thanks

bjudd
1969 280 SL 5 sp

[bpossel]

Hello bjudd,

Look at the attached pic of the pieces of the lighter.  Note the pieces that are "threaded".  Hopefully this helps with removal and then reinstall.  Make sure to install as in the pic.  It is important to get the insulated washer in its correct position.
Good Luck!
Bob

Download Attachment: Lighter-Pieces.jpg
17.6 KB

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320

[bjudd]

Bob,

the picture helps immensely.  

does the threaded pin come off first or does it slip through the "threaded connector" and come out with the housing and cer. insert?

thanks

bjudd
1969 280 SL 5 sp

[bpossel]

bjudd,

The threaded pin is the 1st item to unscrew.  I remove in the order shown on the pic.  Work your way from back to front, back being the pin 1st.

Regards,
Bob

bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320