Running rich through all RPM's

[AudioGuy]

My 66 230SL appears to run rich through all RPM ranges.  I cannot seem to get the car to idle at 800 RPM, idles at 1,000 RPM at the lowest.  Spark plugs were black and tail pipe is also black.  Here is what I have checked and verified:

1.  Installed Crane ignition system
2.  Checked the Cold Start Valve - Removed the small scew on the CSV and performed fuelpump on test; it is only damp.  I think I read on the post that the allowable is 3 drops per minute of fuel.
3.  Checked the solenoid on the CSV and that works correctly.
4.  Removed one of two shims under the Warm Running Device.
5.  Adjust all the linkages to be correct lengths with no play.
6.  After total warm up I turned the fuel idle screw as lean (left) as I could go until the clicks were no longer, so I think the internal screw was as far out as it could go and still have the knob disengage from the internal screw.  Also adjusted the air fuel mixture screw on the intake manifold, seems to want to go all the way out.

When I disconnected the linkage from the Injection pump and while the engine was running and opened the remianing linkage for the air, the engine rpm increased as if the IP was still connected to the IP.
My car is totally restored and the engine bay detailed.  The experienced W113 restorer indicated the fuel injection system needed to run richer due to a "bucking" issue at a constant 2,000 rpm under load.  I beleive he adjusted the screws inside of the pump to change spring pressure on the governor fly weights, due to his thinking they were sticking. I did change the fuel injecting pump oil and installed Mobil 1 in both the engine and IP recently.

If the fly weights were adjusted via the screws, is there a good way to set them back to original factory specs?

Is there anything that could keep the engine running in a perceived "cold state" and therefore rich?  

I find these mechanical fuel injection systems to be very complex and tough to diagnose. I really want to make this car a good highway driver and would love to see mileage commensurate to when the car was new.  The car has 66,000 original miles.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  e-mail mflaten@msn.com

[Naj ✝︎]

For a start, I would check that the throttle valve is properly adjusted and
 

quote:Is there anything that could keep the engine running in a perceived "cold state" and therefore rich?

that the WRD closes off the air completely from the little filter on the I/J pump.
Many posts here discussing how to do it.

68 280SL

[ja17]

Hello,
Yes this engine should idle down regardless of the pump settings. You are leaking air into the system somewhere. Good suggestion by Naj. Also check the venturi linkage and stop screw. The venturi "flap" must be allowed to close completely! Bck off the 10mm nut and slotted stop screw until it just keeps the flap from binding closed.

Fuel mixture can be leaned out throughout all speed ranges by rmoving one or more of the shims under the WRD. Make sure everthing else is ok first.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio