Hardtop headliner inquiry - restoration article?

[rico_vancouver]

Hi,

Long time reader, but infrequent poster.

I, like many of you, have deteriorating foam backing on my headliner. However, since I don't use my hardtop (it's not my principle car, so why drive it with the roof on?), I'm not sure it warrants replacing the headliner. My SL is a weekend cruiser, not a show car.

I've also discovered a neat trick: Stand the hardtop on end (resting on the rear window), whack away at the headliner and vacuum up the debris on the inside. Gently re-install on the car. Roll up the windows and give the door a good, quick slam. More debris will come out the vent along the top of the rear window.

Even still, I'm toying with the idea of replacing the headliner. I've found a friend of a friend who works at a vintage car upholstery shop that would do it for cash. However, I'd still like to have a look at Gernold's hardtop restoration article. Can someone send it to me? I'll post it on my website for all to have access as well.

Rich
'67 250SL
'87 560SEC Euro Spec
http://qube.myvnc.com/mercedes/250SL/photos/

[rwmastel]

Is your URL good?  Clicking on it directs me to:
http://154.20.151.31:8080/mercedes/250SL/photos/

and I get a Time Out error.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[rico_vancouver]

URL works fine. The web should re-direct, as my DSL provider only gives out dynamic IPs. Try the link:

http://qube.myvnc.com/mercedes/250SL/

Rich

[KevinC]

Rico,

Great looking car! Might I offer a suggestion? I, too had a dark horn pad on an ivory steering wheel. Changed the pad to ivory colored vinyl (original with the ivory wheel) and the difference is outstanding! Very little investment for such a great outcome!

Kevin

Download Attachment: MB Ivory Steering Wheel - Dark Pad.jpg
21.51 KB

Download Attachment: MB Ivory Steering Wheel.jpg
16.4 KB

Kevin Caputo
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex

[Chad]

The hardtop restoration will be a bear!  It is wonderfully overengineered!  I am almost ready to throw in the towel with a spare sunroof hardtop I have found. Frankly I like the original sunroof-less and roof rail-less hardtop that is original to this car. It is a clean and elegant look.

I see you replaced the original rubber mats with squareweave.  Do you still have the original rubber mats??
I am getting ready to source anthracite mats, but would not mind having an original item.

[rico_vancouver]

Thanks to Chad for the file. As promised, you can download/view a copy of Gernold's guide at:

http://qube.myvnc.com/mercedes/250SL/Hardtop.pdf

To answer a couple of questions:

- no, I sold the one real floor mat to someone, and threw out the other piece of rubber
- sure the wheel pad would look cool in ivory, but I'm ok with it dark

Likely, I won't tackle the headliner - this is the first time I've had the hardtop on in ~7 years, and once I get it hoisted into the rafters of my garage, it probably will stay there indefinitely.

Rich
'67 250SL
'87 560SEC Euro Spec
http://qube.myvnc.com/mercedes/250SL/photos/

[rico_vancouver]

Fair comment. I thought I was doing folks a favour here, but I guess it does step on some copyright toes (even though I'm not taking any credit or charging for this). I have removed it from the server.

[tdun824259]

Rico,

For what it's worth, I'm in the middle of dimantling my hardtop.  Actually, its completely dismantled and will be ready for paint soon.  I followed Gernold's hardtop restoration article and it's gone smoothly so far.  I'm going to try and re-dye the headliner first.  If I'm not satisfied with the results, I will put in a new one.  It's has been kind of a fun adventure and something that I can play with for awhile and put down when I want to.  It has been my experience that re-assembly is more difficult than the tearing apart, so I still may be in over my head, but I think I can put this baby back together again.  So rather than spanking the headliner and slamming the doors, if I were you I'd give this a shot.  If you want a copy of Gernold's article I'd be glad to send it to you.  A wiser person than I (within the SL113 group) sent me my copy.  I will try and post some pictures when I'm a little further along.  My headliner is badly stained, so I'm anxious to try the re-dye procedure.
Good Luck to you
Tim Dunagan
1971 280 SL

[Chad]

Tim,  
Replacing the headliner is no big deal, once you have it all apart, and have all the rubber and headliner sourced. If your headliner is stained really nasty, just replace according to the article, there are other little tricks you will discover for yourself along the way. It's definitely sequence important. If by chance you are cursed with the sunroof, then I am not sure, as making the headliner work will take a little more creativity.

[Kenneth Gear]

If anyone has a copy of the article, could someone send it to me as I need to tackle the same project.

Thank you.
kgear1@msn.com

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red

[George Des]

Tim,

I'm in the process of doing the headliner replacement. Top is all disassembled and now in primer. Still have some minor tweaking to do before I do the finish coat in DB050 (White). I opted to go with a brand new headliner instead of trying to clean or dye mine. My headliner had yellowed over the years and had actually stiffened to the point where it was difficult to remove w/o tearing it along the edges. In my case it was just easier to order a new headliner in the original color--I believe it was less than $200.00-- Not sure how much it would cost to dye yours and how it will turn out, but if you've got to go through all the trouble of disassembly and reassembly, for a "nickle more" it may be worth it to go with the brand new headliner. Just my opinion.

George Des

[tdun824259]

George,

I appreciate your advice and I think that the new headliner is probably the route to go.  I plan to post pic's of the re-dye job so other members can judge for themselves on whether it is worth the trouble.  My old liner is much the same as yours.  Crusty around the edges and did slightly tear in a couple of spots trying to seperate it from the putty used to seal the top.  I've already purchased the cleaner and dye (40.00) so I'm committed to the process.  I've wasted more than 40.00 bucks more times than I can count so if it doesn't look good, I'll punt and purchase new chalking it up to a learning experience.  Always appreciate your posts and the many other knowledgeable members.

Tim Dunagan
1971 280 SL

[CraigD]

I'm about to embark on a hardtop restoration too.  What should I expect to pay for rechroming the hardtop pieces?

Craig
'70 280SL Euro 4-sp.
Silver/Black

 

[gugel]

Restoring the hardtop is not easy.  Getting the chrome off and back on is a real challenge, but by far the hardest task is getting the rear quarter windows back in.  Gernold's article says just to pry them back in, but this didn't work for me.  I finally had to find a shop that had done it many times before, and it took him a number of hours.  It would probably be a good idea to find such a shop before taking out the windows.

Chris Earnest

[CraigD]

I think you have a good idea... I've heard this recommendation before.  I do have a shop that has experience dissambling and reassembling the W113 top, so I'm planning to rely on them for reassembly, anyway.

Any insights into the cost to rechrome all the trim?  It cost figured by total area plated, or by piece, or how?

Craig
'70 280SL Euro 4-sp.
Silver/Black

 

[Mike]

I just finished redoing my hardtop.  I redid 4 pieces of chrome at a cost of about $500.  I only did the four "drip rail" pieces.  The rest of my chrome was pretty good.  I agree with the part about the glass.  I recommend strongly against prying it as the article says.  I hired a national chain, Diamond glass was their nae as I recall, to reinstall the rear window and the side windows.  They applied armor all on the side glass seals and used suction cups and it went in for them pretty easily.   Total labor for them was about $100 and they came to the car.  The headliner is available from Ray Paul/Bud's at under $100 and it seems to be exactly like the original.  Headiler installation was very easy with all the chrome and glass removed.

Michael L. Hund