Stainless or Steel Exhaust ?

[n/a]

Anyone have any suggestions? I have heard the stainless might have a different tone. Were the systems welded front to back from the factory? My current system has clamps and the front two are resonating on the chassis. Anyone try the Starla steel exhaust? Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks,
Steve
1971 280SL

[Bob G ✝︎]

Steve;
My 1968 280SL has a borla stainless steel exhaust. I have never found it to be irritating to listen to and cannot find fault with it.

Bob Geco

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Bob,

The Borla website does not list any Mercedes applications.  Was your system made special for your car.  Also is it a welded or clamp style system.  The Timevalve system seems a good way to go.  If I understand their website correctly the first reasonator outlet pipes are welded in the factory.  This seems to be the most critical alignment joint.  If correct the rest of the clamp up would be easy.



Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[Cees Klumper]

I recently got a stainless system but I have not been able to try it yet (fresh engine not running yet). Got it at Van Dijk and they have done tons of these, all clamped rather than welded, and they say this works perfectly. The main advantage of the clamps is that it can be disassembled later if need be, for example to work on the rear axle. I don't know the make, but in the US most people seem to go with Timevalve.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[113gray]

The clamp vs weld (for stainless) approaches are interesting. If I had Johio available, or could find his like, I would use the welding method that he highly recommends. However, his like is not seen everyday, so the clamps have the advantages that Cees points out & also do not require the skill, patience & attention to detail that welding does. Every muffler shop guy I have access to gets a look on his face like he has seen a snake when I mention SS welding!  -JP-

[hughet]

I have had a Timevalve system in my 65 230 SL for 14 years and it is as good as new. It is an early car with the split tube header and is probably louder than later cars to begin with. A friend here in town just installed a Timevalve system on his 66 230SL and he says that he thinks that it is quieter than what he had before (but his old system was probably rusted out inside).
The real advantage for a stainless system on a classic car is that it will not deteriorate over time and is easy to install and take out for maintenance jobs. In the time I have had the system it has been out a few times for a clutch job, rear axle installation, and head removal. It is probably cheaper than stock and it looks great.
Borla is probably a pretty good choice too. I put a Borla system on a 66 E-Type Jaguar that I had before I got my SL and it was a whole lot better than the stock Jaguar system. (that is not saying much becaust the joke is that a Jaguar exhaust system will rust out before the warehouse tags burn off but it was very easy to install because the pipes fit perfectly).

[n/a]

From what I have heard the front head pipe should get welded to the inlet pipe of the center muffler. On my car it is clamped an it rubs on the chassis in the tunnel section there. Do any of you have this problem for clearance using clamps there?

Steve

[Cees Klumper]

I just installed my new system and can't imagine there will be a rubbing problem. I suppose this all depends on three variables: (1) the quality of the fit of the new system; (2) how it is positioned, from the headers right back to the tailpipes, and (3) the condition of your engine and transmission mounts - these also co-determine the pitch of the engine and, thus, the angle at which the pipes will run vs the car body.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[ted280sl]

I have the Timevalve Stainless Steel Exhaust. I thought it was loud but, I have heard standard exhaust systems which are louder. The fit is good but, our exhaust systems have a little known secret, brass bolts. This has been mentioned earlier but, it I believe it bears repeating. The connection between the header pipe and the exhaust system is accomplished with 6 bolts and nuts. The nuts should be brass nuts which will not loosen as a result of the vibrations. I found that my bolts were loosening up regularly. I replaced the exhaust seals and installed the brass nuts and it has held for several years now. I hope this information is helpful.
Regards,
Ted
1969 280SL stainless steel exhaust with new chrom tips

[Cees Klumper]

I had the problem too, where the nuts kept loosening. I replaced the nuts (brass) and bolts (steel) and the gaskets, but to no avail. Turned out the pipes were too short to put the proper amount of tension on the fit.
A leaking system sounds quite different from a 'loud' system I believe.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[rob walker]

Can anyone advise the brass nut size as I would like to obtain these prior to fitment of a new S/S system.
Two weeks to my holiday in the UK and I can drive her again

Rob Walker

1968 280SL papyrus white/green leather
2004 230 SLK silver

[dreyer635]

I bougth recently a fittingsset from SLS in Hamburg. (www.sls-hh.de) Article 249492 Full fitting kit at about 96€ (including tailpipes and all clamps needed to install my new S/S system) The hole kit worked fine and my newly bought S/S system (€495) from http://www.mercedes-classics.com/ sounds great and fittet perfect.

Kjell
69 280SL manual

[dreyer635]

Some pictures of my new S/S system mounted:

http://www.privatpc.no/banff/eksos017.jpg
http://www.privatpc.no/banff/eksos015.jpg
http://www.privatpc.no/banff/eksos009.jpg
http://www.privatpc.no/banff/eksos024.jpg

[rob walker]

KJell, I have purchased the same fitting kit but it is yet to arrive, did the kit include the exhust to manifold nuts and bolts and are the bolts brass?
The price of the mercedes-classic is quite a bit cheaper than the SLS system which I have bought.
Does anyone know the nut and bolt sizes for the exhaust to manifold bolts?



Rob Walker

1968 280SL papyrus white/green leather
2004 230 SLK silver

[dreyer635]

Positive - nuts are brass and bolts steel
I can come back later with exact dimensions on the bolts - will check when I get home later today

Dimention on bolt is: 8 mm diameter, 56 mm long - both nut and bolt have a 13 mm head