Getting trunk rust out...

[babarsheikh]

Have spent the last couple of weekends sanding my trunk by hand and with the drill attachment... It finally looks really good and I am getting set to put the primer on this weekend.  I was showing my handiwork to my mechanic and he said that before I prime it I should do a final clean with this gel type stuff that you leave on for 15 min and then wipe off.  Apprently its good stuff and gets all the gunk out off so the primer goes on nice and smooth.  He forgot the name of the stuff.  Anyone used something like this before?

Bobby
1970 280SL

[Khurram Darugar]

Bobby,
      If you've sanded the metal down to baremetal then you dont need any other strippers.  Most of these strippers are gel based and may be what your mechanic was elluding to.

What you do need is a good alchohol based wipe that will remove any oil residue that gets transferred from your fingers.  

If you are going to use a primer you should a zinc chromate (not zinc phosphate) based primer with > 40% solids.  This will give excellent long term rust protection.  

One more thing the original trunk floor is probably one of the thinnest panels on the pagoda.  KK Mfg offer excellent more substantial galvanized replacement panels and the trunk panel is probably the easiest one to replace and reasonable in cost.  

While your at it you may want to check VHT's self priming Epoxy paint.  This is good stuff and intended for roll bar and chassis but can be used anywhere.  It sticks on in a big way probably becuase its got a self etcher and has rust inhibitors within it.  It comes in gloss and matt black.

Lastly when painting anything remember cleanliness is next to Godliness!

Anyways Good luck, i think ive gone on a bit on this thread[:p]
Kay


   


Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.

[psmith]

I think he is talking about "Navel Jelly" which converts the rust into something more benign.  I use it even when I've sanded down to metal just to be sure.  It's can be found in most hardware stores.

Pete S.

[mdsalemi]

Bobby,

Listen to the experts.  Go talk to a body shop.  Naval Jelly is the product; it does NOT convert rust, but gets rid of it; it is a jelled phosphoric acid based product.  Someone told you to use it because when you are sanding the sandpaper does not get in the little rust-pits.  The Naval Jelly will.

http://www.shorechemical.com/Section%207%20Tech%20Sheets/naval_jelly.htm

There are rust converters out there but these are something else, and they only work when you leave the surface rust in place.

http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm

Once you get it all cleaned up, you need to deal with it pronto: unprotected steel will begin to rust immediately.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[Ben]

Navel Jelly ??

Isn't that the stuff the put on pregnant women just before an ultrasound scan ??   :mrgreen:

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

[babarsheikh]

Got the navel jelly!  Another question for the group. Should I spray or brush the primer and paint on.  I am thinking I will get a better more authentic finish with the spray?  But with the brush I will be able to hide the imperfections more...  I guess a combo of both would be best (but this may look werid)?  

Although this is not the biggest deal by any means, I would like to get it right and would love to know people's opinions...

Thanks.