Rocker Repair - Fixing Rust in a 280SL

[Abbas]

Recently, the OurSL ran a nice article with pictures in their newsletter about fixing rust in the rockers - a usual case for many Pagodas.

The total cost for the job was $1,824. I was not sure about the fender panels if these are the right way to install them or even they should be included in the first place.

To read the article and see the pictures here is the link:

http://www.oursl.com/NewsLetter/NL0604/280SL-Rockers/280SL-Rockers.htm


280SL W113 1969 Ivory
E280 W124 1995 Silver

[J. Huber]

Not to be cynical, but that price strikes me as unbelievably low (especially here on West Coast). Very informative article though, thanks Abbas. Is anyone else surprised by the bottom line? If not, I'll be at the shop by 9.

James
63 230SL

[jeffc280sl]

Hi James,

I thought the price was on the high side.  Then again given the age of the car and unknowns that may arise during repairs I suppose its about right.  My reading of the report indicates they cut out rusted metal and patched the firewall with new sheet matal.  They replaced the screw on rail covers and splash guard metal and gaskets on both sides.  That's about it as I recall.  Anyone who has these problems should invest in repair to stop further and much more serious decay.  My car was once in this state of decay.  Previous owner neglected these needed repairs and water infultrated the floor pans and frame rails leading to major rust problems.  BYW I was able to reuse the outer rail covers when I replaced floor pans and frame rails on my car.  The outer rail covers have drain slots in the bottom edge to allow for any trapped water to exit.  These slots also provide air to help dry out the area between the rail and rail cover. Air circulation is not so available to help dry areas under carpet and inside frame rails.  This leads to hidden and expensive repairs.  Take care of problems early is the key.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[J. Huber]

Interesting Jeff. Maybe I am confusing rusted rocker areas with something much more sinister. In looking at another visual aid, the SLS catalog, it shows basically three parts of the rocker. The cover, the frame rail and the top piece. Patching/replacing these would be much more, wouldn't it?



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James
63 230SL

[n/a]

This is really interesting.  I never knew that there are three separate pieces that made up the rocker.  Are all these parts held together by screws and can be replaced separately if one desires?

Louis 70 280sl Red Auto

[jeffc280sl]

James,

One of the parts they replaced was the cover #288070.  They also replaced the other side.  Both covers are screwed in place and can be removed.  Plan on breaking several of the screws as some are rusted in place.  You will have to drill the screw out and replace it.  The two piece frame rail assebly is welded in place and it is not easy to replace.  I hope this answers the question that Louis asked.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[norton]

The only screw on part is the outer rocker cover, The other two pieces are welded together and form a box section that runs from the rear of the front wheel well to the front of the rear wheel well, They along with the trans tunnel are the main structure of the car, they are welded to the seat cross member, rear cross member, rear bulkhead, cowl sides and a dozen or more other places. The inner part of the rocker is the vertical area that the carpet is glued to in the interior. Pic of a Pagoda without a rocker

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

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[Abbas]

You are wellcome James.
I guess now I knew why fixing the rockers is such a difficult task but also very important. I made a search on the forum for articles  on "fixing rust" and did not see much - maybe a candidate for an extensive guideline article. I see much interest in engine problems while rust is one of the main hidden and dangerous problems creeping on 113 chassis.

Abbas

280SL W113 1969 Ivory
E280 W124 1995 Silver

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by Abbas

I made a search on the forum for articles  on "fixing rust" and did not see much - maybe a candidate for an extensive guideline article.

There will be an article related to rust in Pagoda World, Issue 8.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Arjun]

Rodd,

Would you know when Issue 8 will be available.

My car is being fixed for rust and would sure help.

Thank you

1967 250SL 5-Speed

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by Arjun

Would you know when Issue 8 will be available.  My car is being fixed for rust and would sure help.

The recently mailed Issue 7 was "April", so if I can keep on schedule it should be July.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Mike Webster]

After my car was detailed, I noticed a paint bubble less than Ø0.25" behind the driver side front wheelhouse. Further investigation led to a half dozen small areas that I had professionaly taken care of (rust & dings) by a reputable shop in my area. Cost was just under $4,000.00. I figure this will buy me three to four years before I must take the big plunge. Some pic's.

Mike in Detroit
1966 230sl silver/red

 

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[jeffc280sl]

Mike,  Have a look at your inner fender gasket.  The rust you took care of was from the inside out.  Somehow moisture was able to get to the underside of the fender.  I suspect the gasket.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed