Author Topic: Brake Cylinder  (Read 2944 times)

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Brake Cylinder
« on: May 20, 2006, 18:53:39 »
I am a new member.  My Name is George Kranitzky, live in Manakin Sabot, Virginia USA.  We have a 1964 230SL that has just developed a leak in the rear brake cylinder. My wife and I want to perform the repair but are a bit apprenshive about the job.  This will be the biggest job we have tackled.  The problem is we can't find clear instructions for how to loosen the brake shoes and remove the drum.  We don't want to ruin the drum - the Haynes manual and an old MB workshop manual don't have pictures for that part.  Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

merrill

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Re: Brake Cylinder
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2006, 20:15:34 »
George,
first, get your parts before starting, it sucks to have the car on stands waiting for parts.  new cylinder at a min.

ok, so, jack up the car, remove the wheel, secure the car.

look on the back of the dust shield / backing plate and you should see 2 large nuts one on each side.  if you have these they are used to set the brake shoe adjustment.  turn one or both i think counter clock wise and the drum should loosen.  loosen both and the drum should spin freely, you may need some soft taps on the brake drum with a piece of woood and the drum will come off.

If you do not have these your rear brakes have a spin wheel inside the drum,  your owners manual should have a section on the brake drums.

now, once you have the drum offf you wil see the cylinder, I just bought some new ones they were not expensive.  Pay attention, there are 2 pins that insert into the cylinder, these connect the cylinder to the  shoes.  one end is slotted, keep these, you can get new ones from K&K.  they are about $12 each, you should be able to re use your old ones.

be careful when removing the metal brake line from the cylinder so you do not bend it.
 Also, be careful not to get brake fluid everywhere, it will remove the paint.

R/R the cylinder, pins, re connect everything, bleed they lines and you should be good to go.

It may be a good time to R/R the rubber connecting brake hose from the splitter as these do get old.

good luck,
matt
Matt
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Benz Dr.

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Re: Brake Cylinder
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2006, 21:23:53 »
The brake shoes should be replaced if they have any grease or brake fluid on them. Clean them with 80 grit sand paper if they're dry.
The brake drum can be pressed off by using three 8mm screws in the threaded holes provided if they're really stuck on. Don't force these screws too much and break them off - the drum should start to move as soon as you apply medium force. These holes for the removal screws are between the holes for the wheel screws. Remove them once you get the drum off.

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« Last Edit: May 21, 2006, 21:26:25 by Benz Dr. »
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
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rwmastel

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Re: Brake Cylinder
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2006, 22:24:54 »
George,

Hello and welcome to the Group.  Our Search tool (link in top right corner) works great.

http://index.php?topic=4820,cylinder
http://index.php?topic=4904,cylinder
http://index.php?topic=4963,cylinder
http://index.php?topic=5152,cylinder

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
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ted280sl

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Re: Brake Cylinder
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2006, 19:12:09 »
George,
  It seems that no one mentioned that the brake system will need to be bled of air after the new cylinder has been connected. A hand pump bleeder is great if you work by yourself. If you have help the pumping the brake pedal and releasing air through the bleeding valve on the wheel cylinders will work just fine.
Regards,
Ted  1969 280SL