NEW TO THIS SITE AND NEED HELP

[n/a]

HI TO EVERY ONE IV HAD A PAGODA FOR JUST OVER A YEAR 1964 IN BLACK IV JUST GOT HER BACK FROM THE BODY SHOP BUT SHE HAS A PROBLEM SHE WILL RUN FOR DIFFERENT TIME PERIODS IE 1 HOUR OR SOME TIMES FOR ONLY 10 MIN IV CHANGED THE FUEL LINES CHECKED THE INJECTORS EXCELLENT WORKING ORDER CHECKED THE TANK FILTER SOME BODY TOLD ME IT COULD BE THE PUMP ITSELF BUT I HAVE MY DOUBTS CAN ANY BODY SHED SOME LIGHT ON THIS AND HELP ME REGARDS TO YOU ALL, LEE

L.MITCHELL

[rogerh113]

You may want to detach the fuel input line at the fuel filter.  Put a can or other catch device under the line and have someone turn on the key (not to start but just on) and check to see that the fuel flow is strong (or even there).  That will confirm that you are getting good flow to the front of the car. Also, have you changed out the fuel filter??

regards -- Roger

[Raymond]

When Roger says your fuel flow should be strong, we're talking a litre in about 15 seconds.  So, make sure you are prepared for that.  The fuel pump will always be on with the key switched on.

Did this problem only begin when you got it back from the body shop?  Was it in the shop a long time with only a few litres in the tank?  Have you been through a whole tank or two of fuel since then?  And, have you checked the throttle body valve to be sure it is closed all the way?



Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[iceberg]

Hey LEE,
I had the exact problem a while back. In my case the symptoms were similar and these were created by a clogged fuel pump or fuel filter. Let me explain! See what happens is that in our injected cars the fuel flows from the tank to the fuel pump through the fuel line to the engine. Any excess fuel is returned back through the return line. Now if the supply is scanty because of, either a blocked line (in line or return line) or a faulty pump, what begins to happen is that since there is little or no flow the fuel in the the lines begins to evaporate due to engine heat, thus choking the engine till it dies of fuel starvation. This is what was explained to me. Now to this end, I took off the fuel pump and looked into it where the fuel enters the pump (by the way, the fuel pump is underneath the car on the rear left side....I have a left hand drive). There was a lot of gunk there pressed up against the mesh. I took a marrow spoon and cleaned it out, put the pump back on and it worked like a charm. Then I got adventurous and took the fuel pump apart. Bad mistake. I managed to put it back together very easily but it just would not stop leaking. This led me to buy a new pump and that was expensive, but never had a problem since. So this is how it was explained to me and I am forwarding it to you. Maybe in your case this is not it at all, but a little trial n error never hurt anyone. Let me know how it goes...if this is the prob which I think it is because of the exact symptons, then you'll be just fine.
Regards,
H

[rwmastel]

Lee,

Hello and welcome to the Group.  You've received very good advice so far.  Basically, you want to inspect the entire fuel system for rust & blockage.
 - There is typically rust (or other gunk) in the fuel tank.  This can be cleaned.
 - There is an in-tank filter to be replaced.
 - There is a filter screen on the input side of the electric fuel pump to be cleaned.
 - There is a main fuel filter in the engine bay to be replaced.
 - Check fuel flow rate, as suggested by others.

(No need to use ALL CAPS, it's like you are SHOUTING.  Also, a period at the end of the sentence would be helpful.)

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[rogerh113]

I did forget to mention one of the most simple things you should check immediately - your fuel pump fuse.  Not the charm of mechanical work, but I understand the original bullet fuses had aluminum caps that have an oxidation issue.  They tend to look ok except on close examination, but the oxide makes for a bad connection.  Takes but a minute to check.  Pull the fuse cover, and the script on the inside will tell you which fuse.  Make sure the fuse is not partially burned (the filament running the length of the fuse is not excessively narrowed in any spot).  Finally I would take a small knife and LIGHTLY scrape the end caps to make sure of a good connection.  

I gather that they now sell fuse replacement kits for a few dollars that don't have these issues.  Hope this works for you - nice to get the rare 'free fix'.

Regards -- Roger

[n/a]

Thank you all so much for the advice i will try out all the idears and let you no how i get on its so nice to no there are people out there you can turn to for advice regards to you all lee

L.MITCHELL

[Chad]

I had this problem, like the others.  It was the filter.

1967 230SL (Manual, rustless driver)