Hello, I'm new

[n/a]

Hello, I'm new to the forum and am looking at a W113 1971 280SL and have a few questions hopefully I can find answers for.

First off, I just wanted to say that this site is awsome! Theres tons of information!

Recently I've found a 1971 280SL for sale for a extremely resonable price. Heres my eval. of the car (from what I know):

1971 280SL (Last year of W113 production)
Exterior: Red- been recently repainted, but I'm not sure if its a factory color, or some cheap paint job. Reciepts should tell. The body is accident free and shows no rust except for a slight oxidation bubble behind the drivers wheel well. Antenna is intact. Chrome is in good condition, only a little top rust around the doors, nothing too noticeable. No rust on the undercarriage. The only concern of mine is that there is Chrome around the fenders. I'm not sure what it would take to take it off. If it was glued on or what and will it take the paint off. Also, non original wheels. Wheels from the next generation SL (Chrome) and ugly. Can I replace with body colored wheels?
Interior: I'm pretty sure that its been redone, but everything is perfect. Wood on dash is varnished, not warped or curled. New stereo (really ugly)with speakers in the area behind the seats (once again, very ugly!) and not Bekker. Seats are a wierd interior color, I'm not sure if its "Palimino" or not. Hopefully MB Tex.
Engine: Was re-built at 128,000 miles and has 6,000 since complete rebild. No rust except on Exhaust headers. The car sounds good, like a roaster, no smoke or leaks.

The guy had the hard top on (which had obviously been dropped about 3 times) and I didn't get to see the soft top, but the headliner was perfect.

The car is offered at 13.5k and I'm wondering if its a good deal or if I should keep shopping around.

I also have a 1992 400E with 230,000 miles on the clock

Thanks for your replies!

Mark

[rwmastel]

Mark,
Welcome to the group!  Let me ask, what do you want from your car?

- Restore to original factory spec, show at car shows?
- Drive it a lot and don't care about originality/correctness?
- Drive it a little and make it as original/correct as is sensible?

That's the most important thing to realize before you buy, and be honest with yourself!

That being said, it's not too hard to find cars that have been re-done "on the cheap".  That is, incorrect or improper materials or components used to refurbish the interior, exterior, or mechanical components.  If you don't care about correct material/components, then that's fine.  But, the person you try to sell it to in 10 years might care a lot!

Here's my personal suggestion about buying a W113:

1. Get as much info as possible about this car.
 - Data Card.  If you don't have this, then you don't know what options the factory put on the car.  If the owner does not have one, they can request one from Germany (see contact info http://index.php?topic=434).  Don't buy a car that does not have a data card unless you know the history of the car.
 - Option code plate.  Read the option code plate on the inner fender by the brake booster.  This will give you some info regarding major options, production numbers, etc.
 - Body number stampings.  The hood, soft top boot lid, and hard top should all have an identical number stamped in them.  This number is the last 3 or 4 digits of the production number(?), which is found on the option code plate.  This shows original matching parts from the factory.
 - Serial number (VIN) on the ID plate (door jamb?) should match the one under the intake manifold stamped on top of the right frame rail.
 - Engine number is stamped on block (not head) below the last two spark plugs near the firewall.  There should also be a plate in this same location with the engine number.
 - There should be a small ID plate on the transmission with a transmission type and serial number.
 - All this info relates back to the data card and can tell you how correct and original the car is.

2. Have a mechanic/restorer who really knows the W113 chassis take a look at the car.  New paint can hide lots of imperfections, as can a new interior.  Rust is the #1 reason to not buy a car so poke around a lot, so look hard for it.  Do a search on this site for "rust" and see what you get.  Also, show this mechanic/restorer the maintenance/repair bills and see if he sees anything lacking or something that is not appropriate for the car in question.  Good quality pre-purchase checks are money well spent.

3. The W113 chassis is old and each car has had a unique history.  They all get cared for and maintained to a different extent.  I would recommend driving at least 5 examples before considering any purchase.  There are enough examples out there (look at Hemmings) that you can find a car that best fits your needs/wants if you give it time.  I took 8 months to buy my 230SL, and I didn't have all this advice to slow me down!

Happy hunting, it's the most fun part!

Where in this vast world do you live?  I hope I get 230,000 miles out of my W124, I'm at 65,000 right now.

Rodd
1966 230SL Euro
1994 E420

[dwilli3038]

Hello Mark,

Welcome to the group.

First let me say as you have described the car, that sounds like a very good price to me.

The most important thing is the undercarrage to be rust free. If you have to deal with rust beneath, it will be most difficult. Since I have no idea how mechanicaly inclined you are it is difficult to provide complete advice. With anycar that is over 30 years old there will be things that need to be repaced and maintenance cost can be high....and much higher if you cannot do it yourself.

Unless you are very knowledgeable, it would be money well spent to invest in an inspection by a mechanic that knows these cars.

Almost every thing is avilable for these cars, so if it is sound don't wory about wheels, radia or leather for the interior, it is all available and the members here will help you find where to purchase these items.

I paid less for one in not nearly as good condition but for me working on it and learning is a big part of the hoby. When I am done I will not have a perfect show car but a nice driver.

Daryl
'64 230 SL

[Dick M]

Mark..
Welcome.
There are several good sites for learing more about "how to" evaluate a possible purchase.  One I found helpful when I started looking was:

http://www.oursl.com/evaluating-230-250-280sl.htm

Dick

[n/a]

Fellow W113 Owners,

Thankyou for all of your support and information! At this point, I regret to inform you that I have decided against buying the car for the following reason (please try to pursuade me!):

Upon inspection of the undercarriage (I had it lifted up on a lift so I could see underneath), I found that there is rust on the frame. Not too much rust, but I'm afraid that its rust on the welds, or rust that will affect the car structurally. I also have found rust in the trunk (a commom problem as the trunks leak, or so I've heard). The rest of the car is in good shape, but I'm afraid of whats hiding under those chrome wheel arches. Dings, Chips, Rust, Bondo?

I have the resources, space, and time to own one of these classic pieces and will continue to look out for them, but I do not think that this one is a project in which I would like to undertake. Living in Florida, rust can become a major problem really quickly, as the humidity in the air just deteriorates everything metal.

Once again, Thank you for your imput, and I look forward to telling you of my future purchse of a w113 SL.

Until next time,

Mark

[dwilli3038]

Mark,

If there is rust on the frame that can affect the structural integrity,  you are wise to pass this time. Keep looking, and you will find one without this serous prblem. Good Luck!

Daryl
'64 230 SL

[Cees Klumper]

Well, given basic skills in body work/welding etc, or finding someone who can do this work skilfully and at not too high a cost, I have found out that even frame rust can be tackled in an economic manner.
The key here is of course that, yes, it is cheaper to buy a car that someone else has gone through the trouble and expense before you. But, as a W113 enthusiast, I have hopes for every single Pagoda, that someone will go through that trouble and save the car, even though it can be less economical in the short run. In the long run, there's the satisfaction of knowing you preserved one and saved it from the junk yard. And, if you hold onto it long enough, the extra cost WILL even out to a relatively small amount per year ...

[Douglas]

Mark,

FYI: The "bundt-cake" alloy wheel was available on late-model 113 SLs. (Although not with a polished finish

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
#018260

[Sphe]

Hey there!
 I just want to say welcome to the group! I started restoration on an old 230Sl about a month ago, and joined for the same reason you did! This group has a huge wealth of information, and a lot of friendly people. Enjoy!