Unless you've recently bled the brake lines and put in new fluid (past 6 months) you may as well remove the Master Cylinder [MC] instead of leaving the brake lines attached to the MC and then bending brake lines around to move the MC out far enough to get the booster out.
In my case ('67 250SL) there are 3 brake lines coming out of the MC... and moving them all simultaneously forward 6 to 8 inches or bending the whole thing to the side (toward engine) to get clearance to pull the booster out *if* the brake lines are all well secured to the body panels and grommet fittings thru the panels may be more than a you bargained for.... besides the risk of breaking any or creating micro-cracks in them that will just open up later (fatigue fractures)produce a fine spray of brake fluid at the break whenever you push the brake pedal.
Hence, my suggestion that if you haven't recently replaced your brake fluid in all lines you may as well just bleed the fluid from the reservior (first to right rear & then right front) then undo the brake lines from the MC, and remove the MC from the Booster (it's easier to remove the MC from the booster while the booster's anchored to the Aluminum Bracket than it is on the bench since the booster's round and likes to rotate while undoing the 2 nuts holding the MC to the booster).
Keep in mind that these cars are nearing 30 - 40 years old depending on which one you've got, and there's no telling how often the brake lines from the MC have been moved around already in various 'service shops', restoration processes, or whatever. An ounce of prevention is worth 10 pounds of cure.
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
95 SL500
