Starter delay?? hard to explain

[grn280SL]

Has anyone ever had the problem after a long drive and turning the car off that car won't restart immediately?  The starter doesn't respond to the key, and you have to try it a few times before the starter goes and then the car starts immediately.  Maybe a loose wire, but it's only when the car is warm.

[dseretakis]

This is classic.  The starter solenoid is not engaging.  It happens a lot when car is warm. It will get worse.  Keep a broomstick in your car. If it doesn't start you could aim the end of stick at the solenoid and bang it while someone else turns the key.

Dimitri
71 280SL

[grn280SL]

What's the solution to this problem?  I have a feeling it will eventually leave me walking at which point I will no longer love my car and will feel like it failed me.  Is it an expensive fix?

[dseretakis]

Does the car not turn over at all when this happens?  No noise?  Also, is it an automatic?  If so a faulty neutral safety switch can cause this.  Running through the gears and successfully attempting to restart might help diagnose that problem.  It does sound like a starter problem though.  A remanufactured Bosch starter can be had for $134.50 from Rusty at BuyMBparts.com.  Probably $50-100 to have it installed.

Dimitri
71 280SL

quote:Originally posted by grn280SL

What's the solution to this problem?  I have a feeling it will eventually leave me walking at which point I will no longer love my car and will feel like it failed me.  Is it an expensive fix?

[grn280SL]

It always starts eventually usually after 3 or 4 tries.

[Longtooth]

If there's a click, but nothing else, then the starter solenoid is kicking into postion but not able to turn... sticking / binding due to mis-matched coefficients of thermal expansion or solenoid bearing wear.  If there's not even a click sound, then the solenoid isn't kicking into position at all... which may mean a loose wire somewhere between ignition switch and starter solenoid. I had the click but no turn-over problem on my '65 Chevy Pickup... everytime I stopped for gas it wouldn't restart for awhile but it clicked every time.  Once I was checking my oil/water while refueling and it started right up when I was done refueling... I though "luck"... but opened the hood again the next time I fueled up, and it started right away again.  I kept the hood shut and it wouldn't start for about 10 minutes.  Turned out that the heat-shield between my exhaust and starter nearest the solenoid had fallen away ... I repositioned and secured it properly and problem went away (to this day and that happened 5 years ago).  Opening the hood allowed convection cooling to cool the solenoid (hot engine heat rises, pulling colder air up past the solenoid / exhuast thru the opening of the hood.  If the hood remained closed, not enough convection was generated while I refueled.... hence having to wait another 10 minutes or so... depending on the ambiant air temperature.

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
The 6% Club - Best of the Best
'02 SL500 Sport

[g_allen]

I've had a similar problem with my 67 230sl - but mine seems to only act up when it's COLD.  I store the car in an unheated garage during our Massachusetts winters and often when I try to start it (every 3 weeks or so) the starter in non responsive (i.e. no clicks or anything).  I do hear the electric fuel pump so evidently some ignition contacts are being made.  

There is a very capable mechanic in this area (J. Allen - Shelbourne Falls) who suggested a few years ago that it was the ignition switch itself (worn contacts?)  

The problem rarely (if ever) happens in the warm weather.  Perhaps the slight expansion or contraction of ignition contacts would cause this?

I also worry about it perhaps leaving me stranded - but it always seems to engage eventually - sometimes after 10 or more tries or by waiting a few minutes.  

Last winter the car seemed to start fine every time. I was almost hoping it would fail so I could have a mechanic put a meter on the solenoid or relay to see if the proper voltage was getting there. That would probably be the only way to determine if it was the ignition switch or the relay or solenoid.  

Hope this helps... Gary

1967 230SL
1 of 185 made that year.