Inspired by Al. Pagoda rust

[91lux]

I have followed Al progress and work and was inspired to just share  that I did more less the same with my 230 sl 4 years ago.The car was abounded by previous owners and left to be scrapped but i saved it and used a lot of time and effort to repair.Finally last summer I was able to use it during our short summer in Norway.Still some way to go and items to fix but that is a part of the fun.I have added a few shots showing the work on the bottom panels and side supports.Replaced them all on both sides.
Keep up the good work Al.

Thanks 91lux,Norway

Download Attachment: Driver side rusty panels cutted out.jpg
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Download Attachment: Driver side welding finished.jpg
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Download Attachment: Driver side Detail floor panel.jpg
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Download Attachment: Pagode on the ferry resize.jpg
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[rwmastel]

91lux,

When having to cut away & replace those sections consisting of, or connected to, the box sections (frame), are there not concerns with maintaining the structural soundness of the vehicle?  Are there problems with the body flexing, etc.?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Khurram Darugar]

You need to have a brace on the door jam.  Sometimes when you remove the sill, there is some movement in alignment between the front and back half.  Failure to do so can result in door jam and gaps not aligning properly.  
Depending on how many floor pans you remove you need to brace the sill to the transmission tunnel.
While its possible, it would be a real pain to realign the car.
 
KD

Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.

[91lux]

Dear Rodd and Kay
Thank you for the input. Alignment and flexing was a concern.I took one side at the time and kept the doors in place fixed with wedges when spot welding.The doors is only removed for final welding and illustrations purposes.
No flexibilety or problems with door opening is detected. Even at sharp turns no flex is noticed.Usually with cabs the doors open  when turning.But before I replaced the sills and panels the car did flex at turns and door opened to the second stage.They were weak because of rust and holes.
But I agree the car should be supported by fixations or a kind of jig when you remove major parts and welding to avoid pull and out of alignment.

[waltklatt]

91lux,
How did you manage to do the spot welds?  Was this an electric jig you used?  The spot welds look really neat and nicely spaced too, just like the factory.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel

[91lux]

quote:Originally posted by waltklatt

91lux,
How did you manage to do the spot welds?  Was this an electric jig you used?  The spot welds look really neat and nicely spaced too, just like the factory.
Walter
1967 220SL-diesel

Thank you Walter

The welding is a mixture of electrical tig and mig welding using inert gas like argon.The sill was done with a special spotweld tool and timer on the equipment.All is hendheld but I premarked with a punch marker before welding. Then I have a homogen strength at the seem and also to spread out the heat in a even way.The material is very thick 3 mm/ 1/8 inch so it was easy to weld even for a amateur like me. I had studied some modern cars with much thinner material which all was spot welded.To be honest it was not looking so nice in the beginning, but as me skill grew, the looks improved.I had to use a grinding machine to flatten the spots in some places, especially at the the top of the sill to make sure that there was space for the crome strip folded on top of the seems.On top of the driver side there is also the cable running to the rear. To make sure that the welding was bonding well i borrowed a xray / ultrasonic test tool to check the welding quality.At the end i had a mechanical engineer to check conserning strenght vs original welding vs my welding.After 5 years there is no signs of fatigue,cracks,flex,rust etc.

By the way the seems is also welded completly in many other places.

Do you really have a diesel engine in your sl.?

Thanks 91lux,Norway

[jsaylor]

When I did my rocker pannels and floors I was concerned about flex and allignment.  We left hard top on and made steel brackets for the door openings that bolted to the door hinge plates and the latch plate.  This kept things tight and straight.  Supposed to go to paint any day now...



Jim Saylor
Kauai, Hawaii
'65 230SL