Drag Link & Idler Arm Repair

[n/a]

Group,
I need to replace my draglink and install an idler arm repair kit.
I have search both BBB's, Haynes, etc. and do not find enough information to give me confidence that I know what I am getting into.
Is this work that can be done in your garage with conventional tools and can someone provide a description of the job, or a lead as to where to get this information?
1970 280SL
Thanks.

Regards,
Stan

[Joe]

Stan, I have done these jobs. The draglink is a straight replacement, but the idler arm rebuild is not. It is not difficult, but it may take a few tries before you get the adjustment right when you reassemble it. This is the "a" shown in the illustrations in Section 46-11 in the BBB.
Just be sure when you dismantle it that you note the order of the parts. All of the parts are a straight replacement. It would be difficult to screw it up, as long as you get the parts in the right order, and the BBB shows the order very plainly.
The problem I had was getting gap "a" to be approximately the same, since it requires a guess on how big this gap is prior to threading the top nut. As the top nut is tightened, the gap lessens. You'll see what I mean when you get to this point. Don't worry, this is not a difficult job, and may be an excuse to buy a new tool (a large wrench for the top nut).
If you need a tool for removing the drag link, go to Auto Zone or a similar place with a tool loan program and borrow a pickling fork.
Good luck,
Joe

[ted280sl]

Stan,
  I did my drag link a few months ago. I bought the fork to remove the drag link at a local Sears for about $15. Using the fork the lnk came out real easily. Installing the new one was real easy. The bolts should be torqued. I also bought a torque wrench at Sears. I brought my car in for alignment after the job was completed. I did not find it to be a difficult job. I believe the parts and the tools cost me about $100. The local alignment shop had quoted me $300.
Good luck,
Ted

[n/a]

Joe,
Thanks for the direction. I checked the BBB that covers my 1970, but had not checked the earlier edition. Job 46-11 is not in the later edition. The idler arm job looks tricky.
One lesson in this for everyone with a 280SL is that you really need the early and later version of the BBB to have a comprehensive service/repair overview.

Regards,
Stan

[Joe]

Stan, I apologize. The directions I gave you for overhauling the idler arm are for a 230SL. Apparently, the 280SL arm design  is different.
Joe

[ja17]

Hello Stan,
The job is not difficult. Buy or borrow a tie rod fork. remove the 17mm nuts holding the drag link or tie rod ends in place. Drive the fork between the parts to pop the drag link off. A good heavy hammer to use on the fork helps. Simply install the new drag link and tighten the nuts. Some upward pressure will keep the new drag link threaded ends from turning when tightening the nuts. The latter idler arm kits are basically a large bolt, a locking nut and two rubber/steel bushings. Remove the nut and bolt, drive the bushings out of the top and bottom of the housing and install the new parts. You may have to squeeze the two bushings into the tube with a clamp before you will be able to start the new bolt. Good Luck!

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[n/a]

Joe A,
When doing this work is it best to have car up with the wheels unsupported (ie. on jackstands) or have the car on ramps? It seems logical to have the wheels supported. I understand that the steering should be centered.
These sound like straight forward jobs. I just wish it weren't 100 degrees here.
Thanks.

Regards,
Stan

[ja17]

Hello Stan,
Supporting the front wheels may be best. You may want to turn the steering at certain times during the job to gain better access. Centering the steering wheel is not critical since the drag link is a one piece non-adjustable link. Check the steering shock. It will need to be removed anyway. It is usually bad and is fairly inexpensive.



Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio