SLUGGISH ON TAKE-OFF - HOT

[keesing]

'67 250SL
NEW - Fuel tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, points, rotor, cap, resistors, plugs, wires +++

Now - very sluggish on take-off from any stop... cruises nicely and accelorates very well once she's rolling, but almost have to floor it to leave a stop light without getting rear-ended!

2nd problem - temp goes to red after long-haul at 70 - 80 mph, immediatly drops to normal when I slow down to 40ish!

Any thoughts on why would be appreciated!

1967 250SL Signal Red
1969 280SL "Tweety Bird Yellow"
1987 260E Charcoal

[ja17]

Hello keesing,

Sounds like the linkage is off or the timing is too far retarded. Try advancing the timing and go for a test drive.

Overheating at highway speeds us almost always a bad radiator. try turning on the heater at highway speeds to see if that helps.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by keesing

2nd problem - temp goes to red after long-haul at 70 - 80 mph, immediatly drops to normal when I slow down to 40ish!

John,
I'm not sure what you can find regarding your first question, but there is LOTS of info about over heating to be found using the Search tool.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Naj ✝︎]

John,
I would also check for air leaks.
Loose manifolds and making sure complete shut-off of air from the air valve on the inj pump

naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[mrfatboy]

I had the sluggish problem when I was playing around with my FI pump & WRD.  I think I made the engine too lean. When I made it richer it was fine.

Also, just a crazy idea, maybe it will point you somewhere, but from what I have been told the engine will run hotter when it is leaner.  My FI pump is messed up and doesn't correctly distribute fuel at all speed ranges.  Could you be running lean at 70-80mph?

But my first guess with be the radiator.  Try the heater trick and let us know if there is a temp difference.

[JPMOSE]

John....I assume you know the automatic transmission starts off in 2nd gear unless you downshift to "2" or engage the kickdown switch (in otherwords floor it).  I think this is one of the most annoying features of the Pagoda!

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

[keesing]

Jp... Yes, I know about the starting in 2nd, but when this happens it is almost scary, I accelorate and don't move... now, when I put it to the floor it goes well and not sluggish at all through the rest of the gear changes - just from dead stop. Having said that, I am running incrediblly rich at idle - but when I tone it back it sputters and seems to have less power at higher speed. This is NOT true with the 280!

1967 250SL Signal Red
1969 280SL "Tweety Bird Yellow"
1987 260E Charcoal

[J. Huber]

Hey John. I am no expert but I think the sluggishness sounds like the timing as JA17 mentioned.

As for the temp going to red -- I would get this checked out ASAP. The damage this will cause will cost you a lot more than a new thermostat, water pump or possibly a recore. These cars do have a tendency to overheat if things are not kept up. The needle should hardly flinch ever -- although a slight climb in traffic seems common for some.  Tons of info on this on both sites.

James
63 230SL

[n/a]

hi keesing!
firstly i would like to thank you for your advice on buying a second car for myself namely a nice 280sl, i take your point and will look very carefully for the right car before making any rash desisions!!!
also my 67 250sl has the same take off problem, after replacing disi cap, wires, plugs ect i still get scary moments when crossing a busy junction to get to my house!!!!
hope we can get to the bottom of this!!!
thanks again
Tony

Tony Gray
1967 250SL
1972 350SL

[rwmastel]

Tony,
Maybe you can get some hands-on help at a Pagoda event?
http://index.php?topic=5032

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[keesing]

Well, I for one would relish the idea of attending a hands-on type of tech event - although, with my two new babies, I have been learning volumes about our Pagodas... but I still am a nieve novice!

As for my problems with my 250... the overheating was easy - like my gas tank, the radiator was full of &*(%#... don't know why it hadn't overheated 30 seconds after start-up. Well, got it pulled out and sent to the radiator guy to see if it is salvagable.  
+++++ those are crossed fingers!

Saving thought... once I'm done replacing everything, my lil'redhead will be as good as she looks!
 :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

1967 250SL Signal Red
1969 280SL "Tweety Bird Yellow"
1987 260E Charcoal

[hands_aus]

Have you checked that the dwell angle and timing is on spec?

It wouldn't hurt to check these again.
I would also check the connections to the ignition system just to be sure that all the screws are tight. Include the screws in the distributor while you are at it.
Like JoeA suggested check the linkages for play.

If the 250SL has an oil reserve on the injection pump then how long since the oil level was checked?
If the oil level is too high the car will be almost impossible to run on spec.
You will have a oil reserve if the VIN is before #2980 (working on the principle that your car has the original injection pump).

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[JPMOSE]

Bob...my 250SL is S/N 003010 and has the oil reservoir.  I believe the change over (pump lubricated from engine oil) started with 280SL production.

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL

[A Dalton]

<<You will have a oil reserve if the VIN is before #2980>>


B,
All 129 engines used oel res. pumps. The last being R-18z.
Crankcase forced lube started with PES R-20 pumps. 130 engine

 The mid year 129 pump changes were ball valves replacing the cones valve set-up and richer low load adjustment range. This change is  pumps R-18/R-18z [ excluding R-18y/USA/stop magnet]

[hands_aus]

geez!
didn't I make a mess of that?
Thanks for correcting me. It is best to have the correct info available.

Anyway the recommendations about dwell and timing and oil level in the injection pump reservoir still stands.


Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by hands_aus

If the 250SL has an oil reserve on the injection pump then how long since the oil level was checked?
If the oil level is too high the car will be almost impossible to run on spec.

Bob - Great point!
John - do you know about your injector pump's oil reserve?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420