Hints

[knirk]

In Norway there is only one mechanic that knows old Mercedes cars really well. The MB dealers will relay all questions to him. His name is Bjarne Koren. He has given me many hints over the last few months, and here are some of them.

Add 2 dl (2/10 of a liter) two stroke oil to every tank of gas.
This will lubricate the fuel injection pump elements and the fuel injectors.

When setting the ignition timing: Don't care about the lower (idle and 1500) settings. Use the 30 deg. at 3000rpm (without vacum) only.

When adjusting idle speed and CO: Aim for an idle rpm of 800. The Co value should be 4.5%. It should be this rich to avoid slow responce when accelerating from idle. Always adjust the idle speed with the idle air screw, and then read the Co.

His advice has worked for me. Any comments from the group?

Per Gunnar Birkeland
1969 280sl (US)

[Cees Klumper]

Hey Per - that sounds like good information. I have heard the two-stroke oil suggestion before. Have not tried this myself but now I will.

On the ignition timing, I believe this might be a good suggestion. I have fiddled with my ignition timing at some length, and I am in doubt as to whether the factory settings work properly on rebuilt engines, that may have slightly different timing due to planed heads etc. An experienced mechanic here in Holland told me he sets the timing simply by listening to the engine, how it responds to various settings. I set my timing last weekend using a timing light and the factory specs, and it ran less well than when I set it 'by ear'. I will try this Norwegian Method next time.

I reset the idle mixture to 4,5% last weekend as well, at 800 RPM. The car runs very well at those values.

Keep it coming!
Cees

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Naj ✝︎]

Cees,
If you set the timing at idling by ear, then check with a strobe, you will find it sitting at a few degrees bTDC. Spec says 3 +/- 2 dregees aTDC.
Somebody has yet to explain to me why it needs to be anything aTDC, unless its something to do with emissioms.
If you set the timing to spec and then disconnect the vacuum line, you will find the engine sounding even better!!
I always do as Per suggests. Set timing at 3000 rpm and then check to see where it is at idling and 1500 rpm.
naj

65 230SL
68 280SL

[Ben]

Yeah I'm with the guys on this.......I always just use 30deg at 3000RPM and I doint care what it is at idel. Obviously you need to check to make sure it IS advancing and retarding and as Dr.Dan says each engine is different. Dan sets them to 30deg innitially and then advances them slightly until they "ping" then he backs of a degree or two, or something like that !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
'03 CLK Kompressor

[tuultyme]

Knirk, Per Gunnar
I Liked the pictures of your car on the Group Project post.  Nice colors!  What is the color of the interior and top?  Where did you order your new top from if you replaced it?

Bruce; Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL

[A Dalton]

<<Dan sets them to 30deg innitially and then advances them slightly until they "ping" then he backs of a degree or two, or something like that ! >>

 My 190sl [ predecessor to the 113]  actually has a cable control knob that allows the driver to turn the dist timing from the cabin.
 The Manual instructs one to go up a 15 degree hill in top gear and turn the timing knob until 'Pinking' is heard.  Then reduce the knob one notch.
 This was for owner control of performance when gas octanes were
different at each station/country..
 So, this is a good way for individual 113s also... as each car requires a different timing due to octane ratings/fuel and compression of each particular engine..
 If one sets the 30 degree first [ which I do ], you may now set up the idle spec to your liking by shortening/lengthing the vac adv/retrd
link arm in the dist. w/o effecting the 3K/30 degree setting...
 

[hands_aus]

quote:Originally posted by A Dalton

<<Dan sets them to 30deg innitially and then advances them slightly until they "ping" then he backs of a degree or two, or something like that ! >>

 My 190sl [ predecessor to the 113]  actually has a cable control knob that allows the driver to turn the dist timing from the cabin.
 The Manual instructs one to go up a 15 degree hill in top gear and turn the timing knob until 'Pinking' is heard.  Then reduce the knob one notch.
 This was for owner control of performance when gas octanes were
different at each station/country..
 So, this is a good way for individual 113s also... as each car requires a different timing due to octane ratings/fuel and compression of each particular engine..


"""" If one sets the 30 degree first [ which I do ], you may now set up the idle spec to your liking by shortening/lengthing the vac adv/retrd
link arm in the dist. w/o effecting the 3K/30 degree setting..."""""
 

How does one access that little adjustment nut on the vac link arm on the distributor?
It looks to be tucked away so that it can't be fiddled with too often.

This thread could be useful for all sorts of practical W113 hints from members?

Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto

[Cees Klumper]

Bob - I think you have to remove the vacuum 'box' from the distributor body, and then you can adjust the length of the linkage arm.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[dngalura]

Hi!
Reading about this adding two stroke oil to a full fuel tank, is this every time you fill the tank? And what brand of oil to use.
The concept makes sense, but is it safe? and how many is doing it?
Also, I read in one of the thread, oil is also added to the coolant?
Thanks.

Dan