Camber

[glennard]

Camber- foremost on our minds in the dog days of summer!  The upper bolt thru the upper wish bone has a cam on the head end to adjust the camber(also, the castor adjustment).   The nut end goes thru a 'cam bushing' in the other wish bone end.  Should this cam bushing rotate with the bolt?  Inquiring minds want to know.  Thanx.

[al_lieffring]

The camber cam bolt being stuck in the threaded caster bushing is the most common reason for needing to replace the upper outer bushing kit.

Before you give up, lift the car up by the lower A arm so the weight is off of the upper suspension arm,

Take loose the 17mm nut on the camber cam bolt, run the nut out to where it is flush with the end of the bolt, then strike smartly with a percussion calibration instrument (large hammer) having the nut on the end will help prevent the P.C.I. from damaging the threads.
With some luck it will pop loose.

If it comes loose remove the camber bolt and clean the rust off with a wire brush, grease it up and reinstall it.

It it doesn't come loose, the upper outer usually will need to be burned out with a cutting torch.

Most important, Leave them dogs a'sleeping. If your caster and camber don't need to be readjusted at this time, leave it alone untill it does.

Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank

[al_lieffring]

I just re-read your question, the answer is yes the cam is welded to the bolt head and on the nut end the cam bushing has a keyway to keep it inline with the other end.
 
The answer I previously posted was for when the camber cam bolt is turned, the threaded caster bushing turns along with it.  

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

The camber cam bolt being stuck in the threaded caster bushing is the most common reason for needing to replace the upper outer bushing kit.

Before you give up, lift the car up by the lower A arm so the weight is off of the upper suspension arm,

Take loose the 17mm nut on the camber cam bolt, run the nut out to where it is flush with the end of the bolt, then strike smartly with a percussion calibration instrument (large hammer) having the nut on the end will help prevent the P.C.I. from damaging the threads.
With some luck it will pop loose.

If it comes loose remove the camber bolt and clean the rust off with a wire brush, grease it up and reinstall it.

It it doesn't come loose, the upper outer usually will need to be burned out with a cutting torch.

Most important, Leave them dogs a'sleeping. If your caster and camber don't need to be readjusted at this time, leave it alone untill it does.

Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank

Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank

[glennard]

The cam bushing, at the nut end, has a key that fits in the bolt keyway?  This means the cam bushing must turn in the wish bone arm, when the cam bolt turns?  Also, where do I get the rubber seals(dust covers) without buying the $150 kit???

[glennard]

The 'cam bushing' in the wishbone arm is supposed to have a pin the fits in the cam bolt key way.  Mine is gonzo- sheared off I guess.  Can I punch the remainder out and fit a home made one?  Any thoughts?

[RBurg]

Glennard: Rubber seals can be obtained from MB Dealer - (I just replaced all the rubber parts on O GIGI) They are usually available within 2 - 3 days either from NJ or Germany. Be sure to ask for your club discount which is usually about 10-20%  
I have found often times it cost less to purchase from a dealer for many part because you pay no shipping or handling charge.  Further more if you make a mistake - they will reorder with no charge for return or shipping.

Ron - Minnesota
71 280SL Tobacco "O GIGI"
03 525 BMW BlACK/BLACk
97 E420 Silver Mist

[glennard]

Ron, Local dealer, Herb  Chambers in Somerville, MA, said I had to buy the whole kit- cam bolt, nut, threaded tube, etc., for $150.  Miller's have the rubber seals for $7 each.  Considering making my own out of concentric rubber hose pieces.  That way I can size them to the castor gap at each end.  Then wrap them with Duck tape for good measure!

[RBurg]

Glennard: Just call local dealer ( Maplewood Imports St.Paul) cost per seal is $6.00 less 20% which is $4.80 each. No freight and it is wrong thy will retun with no stocking charge.
Must be those HIGH COSTAL PRICES!

Ron - Minnesota
71 280SL Tobacco "O GIGI"
03 525 BMW BlACK/BLACk
97 E420 Silver Mist

[glennard]

Camber - cont'd.  The eccentric cam bolt(about 3" long) is out.  The eccentric cam bushing (in the wish bone) had to be pounded out of the wish bone.  The eccentric cam bushing pin that goes in the bolt keyway was sheared off.   The bushing and its race need some 'cleaning up' so the bushing will turn- corrosion, etc.  A chisel cut mark was on the eccentric where someone tried to rotate it with the bolt!!  The pin needs to be replaced.   Greasing the bolt and bushing is not accomplished thru the grease fitting.  Got to apply a lot of grease on assembly and manually to head and nut when greasing the fitting.   Guessing 90% of these Camber adjusters are Gonzo!! :twisted:

[enochbell]

Glennard,

Looks like you are in need of a rebuild kit, they are available for about 75 bucks each side (OEM, Febi) at the discounters. Unless you really WANT to fabricate the assembly...
Best,
g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[jeffc280sl]

Glenn,

Did you take any pictures?  We could commiserate better with you if we could see what you see.  Atleast you would have that going for you.  Good Luck!

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed