Right on Will
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The first photo was taken from the top of the shaft, on which the centrifugal weights are positioned. The small cuffmarks on the brown gasket-type surface are from the constant rubbing of the weights as they move in and out depending on RPM's. On the edges you can make out the posts that the little springs hold onto that pull the centrifugal weights back inward.
On this top part of the shaft actually sits another small shaft that supports the plates that, in turn, are the hosts to the points and are attached to the vacuum advance/retard mechanism. This photo also shows the little springs:
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The second photo shows the shaft from the bottom - you can see the various type washers and their orientation. The screw is one of two that holds the plate with the spring-posts.
The last photo I'll post on this is from the bottom end of the shaft, where it engages with all those gears that also drive the oil pump, FI pump and tachometer. Before driving out the pin that keeps this bottom part on the shaft (which you need to do to take the shaft out of the distributor housing), always make sure to mark the orientation on the shaft: because although it looks like it does not make any difference - actually there is, and you can re-install 180 degrees off, naturally causing a timing problem later on. So I marked the bottom of the shaft to make sure I would put the bottom part back on the same way that it came off:
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I find it a lot of fun taking these old, greasy/dirty distributors all apart, removing play, replacing springs, shims, washers etc., thoroughly cleaning, painting and then re-assembling them. Takes about three hours and $50 in parts (Dr. Benz / Dan Caron sells complete kits). Sure beats buying a new one (around $600 here in The Netherlands). It's one of those jobs you can do in your kitchen! Thanks to Dan and Naj for the parts & helpful hints.
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
