Removing softtop frame - done and fitted

[jameshoward]

03 Jan 08 Update below.

Just starting the process of removing and replacing my softtop and doing the wiki article at the same time. My frame is in need of some TLC and I think I'd rather do the work with the frame off the car. I think it is removed by undoing the two bolts that secure the large bracket to the car and then simply lift off the frame.

Has anyone removed their frame? Is it pretty straight forward and particularly are there any points to watch out for, especially when putting the frame back on the car (alignment, etc).

Any advice gratefully received.

JH

[jeffc280sl]

James,

That's pretty much it.  I don't know if your top is aligned properly or not but you may want to mark the location of the bracket to the car.  There is about 1/2 inch adjustment forwards and backwards where the top meets the body.  There are also some shims under the bracket for vertical adjustment that you need to put back in place.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[hauser]

Not only does the frame move forward and back but can also go side to side.  If your top is adjusted properly to your car I suggest you mark its spot before removal.  This will save you quite a bit of time during the reinstallation.  

Start by removing the decorative chrome parts, I believe all you need for that is a screwdriver.  Each side of the frame has two bolts which secure it to the storage unit.  The forward bolts are a little tricky so you'll need a universal type joint for your ratchet wrench.

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[DavidBrough]

Hi James,

I always remove my soft top for the winter to preserve its condition and shape. Removal and refitting is fairly simple and correct adjustment is not that difficult. I made up a few shims from plastic modeling card to get the window height adjustment correct (best to make sure the windows are correct on your hard top first though) all other adjustments are straight forward once the springs are removed. In fact, removal and replacement of the springs is the trickiest part. I use a sturdy screwdriver forced through the coils and leaver on the frame base until I can get another screwdriver between the spring and its rear mounting. This method is a bit hit and miss though and I do wonder if anyone has any better suggestions.



David Brough
1969 280SL Auto with A/C

[hauser]

I used visegrips on the straight end of the spring.  Holding the visegrips with one hand and using the palm of my hand I'll pull and push to remove the spring.

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[jameshoward]

Gentlemen,

Thank you. I have today started the job of replacing the soft top. I have cut away the old top but had stopped at the point where I remove the frame to await sage advice, now received. I will remove the frame tomorrow as I have found that in removing the old softtop there are about 18 layers of seriously old glue over everything imaginable. Ideally I should replace the tan vinyl that covers the front bow where the two handles for locking down the top are, but I haven't a clue where to find it. It may clean up, I suppose, but with what?

The job of replacing the top is looking like it's going to be a real bugger but looking at all the old junk I'm going to clean off the frame I always remind myself that at least I'm going to do it properly. Not matter how much you pay a shop, there is no way they're going to clean up the frame properly. I have spent 2 hours today just cleaning up the bowed chrome piece that holds the front soft top seal.

I have also taken 140 photos to date so the wiki article should be comprehensive if nothing else. (It will also be boring and too long, with too many photos).

Frame off tomorrow. Thanks for your advice.

JH

[Peter van Es]

James,

don't worry, I'll edit your Wiki contributrion down...

Peter

1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual.

[Bob G ✝︎]

Were aree the shims located? I have a 1968 that was misajusted and disengaged the braket too common that holds the big spring to the soft top boot. I have a friend who owns a mig welder and is a concours upholstery person. though he has never worked on one of these cars.
I would like as well to put a new soft top on and bring up the rear adjustment for the rear lock which is why the braket failed and broke in my opinion.
I look forward to reading and seeing photos in the technical manual for this job prehaps next summer.
Bob Geco
1968 280SL

[jameshoward]

Bob,

The shims are underneath the the bracket that holds the top to the soft top box and which is held in by 2 bolts. If you look at the bracket you 'should' see a number of thin layers of metal. I will post some photos soon, but not for a while as I'm mid flow. When I removed my soft top yesterday I found that I had 4 shims per side but also a pretty large and thick washer had been placed under one side presumably to account for a bend in the frame somewhere. Since my last hood didn't fit at all well and was a bugger to get into the soft top box and close in the box, I am minded to start the install with fewer shims.

So far yesterday has been spent cleaning the old glue from the frame. It's here, in my view, that doing this job ones' self is a vast improvement over paying a shop to do it. Even using some pretty strong solvents and wire wool, I've put in about 7 hours on the frame already. It would just be uneconomical for a shop to do that hence you get new glue on old glue - just like my frame.

So whilst I'm happy with the process for removing the old hood for the wiki (and you can't just rip it off) I am yet to start the hard part.

JH

[bpossel]

Hi James,

Sorry, I was a bit slow to reply on this one...

Here are some things that helped me in removing my frame...

1.  To remove the 2 springs...  with the frame front and rear section colapsed, tilt entire frame towards the back of the car at about a 45 degree angle.  Hold it there with a section of PVC pipe.  I cut a small section of PVC pipe and cut 45 degree angles on both ends.  One end prop'd into the center rear pin on the frame, then other end set on the soft top compartment floor.  At this angle, the spring tension is at a minimum.  You can then easily remove the springs with a pair of vise-grip pliers.

2. Make sure to remove the chrome posts before you remove the 4 bolts that hold the frame.  If you dont have an assistant to help you manuever the frame back and forth during the process, you can use your hard top hoist to hold up the center of the frame, as I did.  I used a couple of old belts and tied around the soft top to hold it together.  Then used the straps from the hard top hoist, etc...  In the end, used the hoist to help lift out of the car...

3.  When I had my canvas replaced a couple of years ago, I found that with the old canvas removed, it made adjusting the frame much easier.  Once all adjusted, then new canvas was installed...

Bob

bpossel  (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL  /  '97 E320

[jameshoward]

Bob,

Thanks for the tips. It's off now without a hitch.

I will check alignment before starting with the new cover. Right now I'm spending a lot of time cleaning up the frame. It is amazing just how well the metal comes up after a good wire brushing with a dremel. Much of hte chrome is as new protected, I think, by years of hard crap that I mistook for corrosion. I am really pleased with the way the frame looks now.  A bit of pitting on the chrome but otherwise it looks great.

JH

[jameshoward]

Finally, the new softtop is fitted. It took about 7-8 hours today but we were not hurrying. (Obviously). Dry fit first then refit with glue. That time includes much messing about with the frame to try to get things right. It needs a little more adjustment, but right now it needs to sit with the roof up to settle and stretch into shape. There will be a need for more adjustment of the frame next week and, I think, I will need to take the back off the rear bow and re-glue again. Annoying, but for a first stab at the job I am very happy. We have also replaced the window seals/rubbers, which takes a while.

I have a great many 'photos of the process - both top removal and refit - and will write it all up for the wiki.

Here's a few photos of the frame stipped of the old top, then removed for cleaning, then back on the car then the new top fitted.

JH



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