"The early 250 sl had two distiguishing changes. They added four wheel disk brakes and a seven main bearing engine versus the four. Note I am relatively new to the 113 world so anyone please correct me if the information is incorrect."
The cuttoff for an early vs later 250SL is Chassis # 2979. After that Chassis number, beginning with Chassis number 2980, MB introduced the myriad of safety changes which toned down the interior reflective chrome, replaced knobs & air/heater controls with black "elastic" plastic material... basically the safety (many US DOT mandated for US imported models) changes that went into the 280SL --- less interior chrome and reflecting surfaces, matt surfaces instead of polished chrome, etc.
I'll add that the 250SL also included all the latest mechanical and engineering changes that had occurred over course of the 230SL's production period. The 280SL added a dual sensor brake fluid reservor, while the prior SL's thru the early 250SL's (thru approx. early May '67 production Chassis #'s) had no brake fluid sensor at all. Compared to the 280SL the early 250SL's has (among other things):
- all the interior chrome, handles, knobs, appointments that was on the 230SL,
- same exterior mirror (goose-neck) as the 230SL,
- no side marker lights/reflectors... same as on the 230SL,
- colored & lighted heater/air controls as in 230SL's,
- solid door side pockets, as in 230SL's,
- softtop front handles integrated with softtop (280SL's softtop handles are separate... in glovebox or trunk or where-ever stored in car),
- two part wheel covers (beauty ring + hubcap), as on the 230SL's,
- no bumper guards (as on the 230SL's)... 250SL's introduced bumper
guards on Chassis # 5041 (Nov 23, '67),
- squared off (less dash edge padding/rounding).
~20k 230SL's produced, ~5200 250SL's (~20 produced in '66, rest thru Nov'67), ~24k 280SL's.
I've heard (from OurSL.com's Roy Spencer) that only ~25% of US imported 280SL's were produced with 4 speed manual transmission, and as such command higher prices than the automatics.
280SL's are in higher demand than the 230SL's & 250SL's, hence sell for a higher price in general.
Matching numbers is something to watch out for when perusing possible purchase. Hood, trunk-lid, soft-tops stamped numbers should match the last digits of the VIN. Another tell-tale detail on all W113's is that at the headlights, inside edge, at fender edge of headlight opening, is a notch. If the notch is missing somebody had front end damage and repair didn't replicate the notch.
If you're interested in a purchase but not comfortable with your ability to identify whether car's been hodged-podged together or has had any significant body damage (rusted parts replacements or accidents), I can recommend a restorer you can contact who may be able to find or help you find a representative authentic version or restore one (to your desired level of authentic restoration). Contact PSMith (on this website) and he'll forward you my e-mail address &/or phone number. However, it sounds like you know your way around vintage cars in general, so I assume you know or will find a contact for a valid restorer or W113 expert in your neck of the woods.
Biggest problem to watch out for is rust damage (under various panels, or covered over by pristine appearance paint jobs).
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
The 6% Club - Best of the Best
'02 SL500 Sport
