Starter?

[halman2228]

'67 230-

Has decided it will not crank (solenoid clicks but no cranking). It will crank & start with a jump from my '04 F150. Voltmeter reads 12.83 cold and not running, 14.6+ running.

Is it possible the starter is dying and needs more amps than the battery can give or should I be thinking battery first? I'm not any good at electrical, so I don't know the ins/outs of amperage/voltage relationships to how things work...

I read thru some threads and know about the "dead zones" the starters can develop; the Tech Manual we have going is still in the "google" content format but did mention the increased HP starter began late '60s and should be used for replacement...

Pointers from the expert gang here are appreciated (the wife won't get in it til this is taken care of   ).

Regards,
Kevin

[J. Huber]

I'd be thinking Battery -- unless it is fairly new.

[hill]

Have the battery load tested first. Any chain auto parts store will test it for free if you bring it in. Being that you can jump it the starter is probably good.

[graphic66]

Could be just dirty battery connections. Try taking the battery post connections off and cleaning them. They get a thin film of black corrosion on them. That is probably your problem.

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by graphic66

Could be just dirty battery connections. Try taking the battery post connections off and cleaning them. They get a thin film of black corrosion on them. That is probably your problem.

The same could be said for the connections at the starter, no?

[James Stern]

Some years ago I had a problem similar to this.  It was tracked down to a starter that was bad (flat?) in one spot.  Got the starer replaced and never had a problem since.

Jim Stern

[graphic66]

Probably not a bad connection at the starter. If it was jumping it probably wouldn't help. Could be a combo problem, weak battery and bad cable connections. I have seen more starters and alternators replaced because of bad battery connections than bad starters or alternators. And don't forget, if your alternator charging lamp doesn't come on when the key is on without the engine running you wont be charging. That little bulb must be working or your alternator will not charge.

[halman2228]

Still confused although I will probably put in a new battery just because - car is new to me 2 months ago. I bought it from a guy over in Austin who hadn't done anything except an oil change in the year that he had it (long story for another post - I'm the "official" third owner).

Anyways, what doesn't make sense is the meter readings (12.83 + 14.6 as mentioned - yes, alternator light shows so it confirms the 14.6 reading). As hill suggested, a load test would be in order which I gather to mean its possible the battery can hold the voltage to read good but not enough CCA to drive the starter?

Regards,
Kevin

[philmas]

Yes, it is possible.The starter drains a lot of amps, and a weak battery could  read a correct voltage and still be unable to hold a heavy load, because we're talking about CURRENT and not TENSION.

[graphic66]

Have you cleaned the battery posts yet? They can really restrict the amperage to the starter. Starters need amps, not volts. It sounds like your charging system is in order. Maybe you should take the ten minutes required to clean the battery posts and see what happens. I clean mine once a year and coat them with silicon dielectric compound. It really sounds like your problem. Also check your electrolyte level in your battery. Add distilled water if needed.

[halman2228]

Uh oh.. what have I fried?
Update (busy summer, haven't been able to attend to this for awhile)...

I put in a new battery a few weeks back and encountered the same "no crank" situation. Repeated turns of the key would get it off the dead spot and I was able to start it a couple of times after the new battery was in.

Yesterday, I tried the same thing and got her cranking but it wouldn't fire up (she's been sitting on my lift for about six weeks. Today, I give it a try and after a half dozen clicks of the solenoid, I lost all power. As in zip, nada, zilch. Nothing electrical works. Period. Battery has 12.7 volts

So - what have I wrought (what did I fry)? [:0]

Not sure I want to jumper it from another vehicle without knowing why there's no juice anywhere (and maybe start a fire...[/font=Arial}

Best regards,
Kevin

[jacovdw]

Have you considered the possibility that it might be your ignition switch (the electrical contacts on the back of the mechanism) that is worn out?

The contact block is available new from MB. There are quite a few threads that has dealt with the ignition switch issue.

[halman2228]

That's what I was thinking as well Jacov...

But hoping not. She has a Kuhlmeister in the way of getting at the switch. Does that explain why I have no power to anything whatsoever?  :?:

Meanwhile, I'll search for ignition switch testing/replacing.

Thanks & best regards,
Kevin

[jacovdw]

quote:Originally posted by halman2228


...Does that explain why I have no power to anything whatsoever?...

I had a similar issue on my pagoda 3 years ago. I would turn the key and nothing would happen - no battery light or fuelpump running. That was in spite of a fully charged battery. Turned out to be a well worn switch unit. One thing to avoid is not to have a lot of weight (eg. bunch of keys or large key holder) on your key when in the ignition switch...

Regards,

[ja17]

Hello Kevin,

If you headlights will not come on, then it will be more than just your ignition switch. If you have some of those replacement battery cable ends on your car then this can be the issue. The "clamp" connection between the cable and the cable end corrodes and loses contact. The problem can come and go. Check to see if you have these replacement cable ends on your car. If so dis-assemble them and clean them.

[halman2228]

Thanks Joe - I'll look at those as well (I do have the clamps you describe).

After Jaco posted, I squirted electric parts cleaner into the iginiton lock/switch and then some WD40 and ws able to briefly get some current but after turning it a couple of times, dead again.

I'll clean up those cable ends & clamps first but it really looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet and do the switch (Oh Joy!)

Best regards,
Kevin

[halman2228]

Update & Solution?...

Another new battery, new battery cable and everything works... for now.

I sent it out forgetting that I had put a new battery in it and let the shop pop a new one in along with the new cable -  :?:

Anyway, the SO will climb back in, so, I'm good to go...

Hurricane Ike put a whammy on me at the house (no fear - I had my cars over at a commercial parking garage, no damage!) so I'll just be driving it a little bit 'til winter sets in then address some other naggering issues (minor idle surge when applying brakes, carpet replacement, oil leaks....) In my spare time, I'll work on my 107s too...

Best regards and thanks for the pointers,
Kevin