Centering the steering box yields unintended bonus

[awolff280sl]

In case anyone else has this specific issue with the turn signal on the stalk, maybe this will help. I never had a problem with the turn signal not cancelling itself after a full turn. But when depressing the lever to change lanes to the left, I always had the problem of the lever becoming stuck. I would often have to force it a bit to cancel it.
Anyway, I was not thinking about this problem when I went to do a front end alignment. In preparation for the alignment, I planned to make sure that my steering box was centered, but I didn't want to do this at the alignment shop and have power steering fluid ooze out there. So I removed the bolt on top of the steering box at home and used a phillips head screwdriver as I moved the steering wheel  to find the little "pit" that indicates that the steering box is centered. Then I removed the steering wheel and put it back on so that it was also centered. Then I drove to get the car aligned. Aside from the steering wheel being crooked, it was not too bad a drive.
The unintended bonus from centering was that my stalk problem was cured.

[bpossel]

Great job Andy!

Pretty cool stuff!  I did the same thing when I was putting my car back together again this past summer.  Used the centering hole on the steering box (removed small bolt to uncover the access hole).  Used a awl as the tool; also reset steering wheel with alignment mark on steering column pin. Also need to ensure that the steering arm is aligned on its alignment mark (remove and reset as needed).

Drove to alignment shop (carefully) with a steering wheel ~45 degrees off....  After the alignment, all worked perfectly!  My turn signal cancels very easily even when changing lanes.  With correct alignment of steering wheel, it also helps with the steering lock working nicely as well.
Bob 

[awolff280sl]

Thanks Bob. Looks like I was even luckier than I thought since I paid no attantion to the steering arm, nor did I know that there is an alignment mark on the steering column pin. I just basically eyeballed the steering wheel. Thanks for your detailed posting.
Regarding the steering column lock, before this procedure I would have to turn the steering wheel clockwise about 10 degrees to catch the lock. Now I have to turn it about 10 degrees counter-clockwise to catch the lock. Should I assume that perfect is when the dash is all torn apart but the wheel locks when straight? 

[bpossel]

Hi Andy,

Not sure what you meant by "dash torn apart"?
My steering wheel locks when the wheels are straight ahead and the key lock is in position number "1".
When I turn the key to position number "2", then steering wheel unlocks.
Bob 

[awolff280sl]

Bob, sorry for the confusion. By not perfect I mean that with my wheels (and steering wheel) straight ahead, my column is not really locked after I remove the key. I have to move the steering wheel a bit to get it to lock and then the steering wheel is about 10-15 degrees clockwise off neutral when locked; I'm not even sure if I'm moving the tires when I do this because they still look straight ahead. Maybe it's just some "play" in the system.  Isn't it alot of work to get to the adjustment for the steering lock?   

[bpossel]

Hi Andy,

I think your fine.  Most every other car that I have driven I've had to move the steering wheel a bit to get it to lock. I think before I took my entire car apart this was also how mine worked.  As you mentioned, there is some play in the steering box, and every box will be different depending on age, etc...
Regards,
Bob 

[zoegrlh]

Andy, Bob,
Talking about the steering box, does any of you have the tool to take and unscrew the "round nut" on top of box?  This round nut has two holes in it for a two pronged wench.  I have tried to take mine off to replace the rubber ring seal but can't break the locking nut away from ring nut.  Got the cap nut off okay.  Any suggestions?
Bob

[awolff280sl]

Robert,
I don't have that tool and I remember using needle nose pliers. It was a real pain, especially because I hadn't removed the box from the car. I just wanted to replace the leaking top O-ring.

[bpossel]

Hi Bob,

A few years ago, I removed the round cap nut to replace the seal.  I never came up with the correct tool and ended up just using a punch tool (end of punch similar in diameter to holes) and hammer to "tap" it open.  I recall this being a real pain !!! hard to get at, lots of back pain, and a real pain to break loose.  You need to be VERY careful not to damage the pin holes on the cap.  Maybe others can chime in if they used a better tool and/or have other ideas for you...

I was finally able to get it open and replace the seal.  It still leaked afterwards.  A few months after that, I just replaced the entire steering box with a rebuilt one.  The difference between my original box and rebuilt box was tremendous!  Tighter and better handling....
Good Luck.
Bob 

[psmith]

I bought a pin wrench from Garrett Wade that wasn't too expensive, but I haven't tried it on the steering box yet.  http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=29J03.03

[waqas]

This inexpensive pin-wrench from Harbor Freight worked perfectly for me: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36554

Along with a good set of locking needle-nose pliers (think at least Sears Craftsman quality), this is all you need to get that disc unscrewed to change the "o"-ring. Be sure to mark the position of the disc relative to the pin and the steering box body. Also count the number of pin/bolt threads showing above the disc. Be sure to hold the pin/bolt steady with the pliers whilst you unscrew the disk using the pin wrench. Once the disc rises above the steering box body you can easily unscrew it by hand. The "o"-ring is only a few dollars from the MB classic center or your local dealer, so be sure to get the correct part.