Author Topic: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing  (Read 9192 times)

menesesjesse

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Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« on: March 30, 2009, 13:10:02 »
Does anyone know where I can buy the 2 larger seals associated with the housing and filter cup?  Metric motors mentioned that these seals should be soft and mine are hard and brittle.  The donut looking one in the cannister is alright but the one that looks like a sleeve that mounts in the housing difinitely needs replacing.  My oil filter kits didnt come with them.  Thanks for the help.
Jesse   
Jesse
1966 Mercedes 230 SL auto
2003 Mercedes E500
1992 Ford F150
1994 Ford Bronco
2019 Shelby GT350R
1967 Mercury Cougar XR7

waqas

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #1 on: March 30, 2009, 13:24:49 »
These are available from all the usual parts suppliers. Your local MB dealership should be able to order it. The classic center stocks them in droves. etc etc

You can get part numbers from the figure in 66andblue's post here: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=2589.msg39395#msg39395
Waqas (Wa-kaas) in Austin, Texas

menesesjesse

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #2 on: March 30, 2009, 17:57:45 »
Thanks I will be sure to get these parts before startup.
Jesse
1966 Mercedes 230 SL auto
2003 Mercedes E500
1992 Ford F150
1994 Ford Bronco
2019 Shelby GT350R
1967 Mercury Cougar XR7

Bob G ✝︎

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2009, 02:42:05 »
I buy the complete oil filter kits from mann. they include the large o ring gasket  and the silver bolt washer , the oil filter cooper washer and the  oil cooler washer. Pretty much all you need for  $5.00 and 2 hours of fun loving labor. Check with you foreigh parts store supplier and tell them you want the filter with the complete kit. I order from Kragen Frame and did not get the kit so I went to BAPGEON in West Los angeless and they stock these kits .

Remember to change you  oil cooler oil!

Bob geco
1968 280SL

ja17

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2009, 12:22:10 »
Hello Bob,

I do not ghink anyone sells a complete gasket set for the oil filter assembly.  If you look into it I think you will find that the kit from Mann is a standard kit which includes the drain plug seal, the oil canister bolt seal, the large rubber o-ring for the filter canister and possibly a copper oil cooler drain plug seal, which can also be used for the later smaller oil pan drain plug seal.

Now the kit will not contain the upper oil filter housing rubber seal (mounted on the aluminum filter housing neck on the engine block and is above the oil filter) , and does not include the inside lower rubber seal,(inside the filter canister under the oil filter and does not include the small rubber o-ring under the filter (it is inside the small metal stamping under the filter and seals around the mounting bolt). 

You do not have to change all of these seals each oil change, but the last three are seldome replaced and often missing allowing un-filtered oil to circulate in your engine! 

Alfred Esser has a very niceillustrated post on this issue (probbably in the tech manual also) it will be quite enlightening.  All the part numbers are posted here. Order these "optional" but very critical seals from your local dealer, any of our friendly parts vendors like Dan C. , K&K etc or The Classic center.  These items all come from Mercedes, no filter kits or aftermarket replacements are available as far as I know.
« Last Edit: April 05, 2009, 12:25:02 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

wwheeler

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2009, 20:19:38 »
I just recently went through the entire oil filter assembly. I wanted to replace everything possible. Sure enough, the upper seal band was missing and the lower rubber can seal was hard as a rock.

I was little confused at first about how to change the lower can seal. I wasn't sure if the metal piece in the bottom was removable. I read all the stuff here about the oil filter unit and never saw anything specific about that. I may have missed it.

I threw caution into the wind and used some pliers to remove the piece. The lower rubber seal came off and installed very easily after that. I also replaced the rubber bolt seal that can only be replaced with the metal piece is removed. Is this the correct procedure to replace the lower can seal?

One other question: I replaced the check valves in the oil filter unit. From MB, they are now all plastic and a little different looking than the original ones. Has anybody replaced the originals with the new ones? Did they work OK? I was hesitant to use the plastic since the one original was metal and the other was phenolic/canvas material.

Thanks for the advice!
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

ja17

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #6 on: April 06, 2009, 23:39:50 »
Hello Wallace,

I replace the two lower seals by removing the metal stamping also. I remove it by turning the canister up side down and use a tool through the bolt opening to push or tap it off.  The sheetmetal disc will sometimes distort but is easy to straighten out again. Yes the one inner 0-ring can only be replaced by removal of the disc.

Yes this issue of the upper seal is so very important. So many of these cars are running around with it missing!
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Mike Hughes

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2009, 22:48:04 »
"Yes this issue of the upper seal is so very important. So many of these cars are running around with it missing!"

...and when it is missing you might as well have not bothered inserting a new filter cartridge, because the oil was bypassing it anyway!
 
 
 
- Mike Hughes  -ô¿ô-
  1966 230SL Auto P/S
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Longtooth

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #8 on: April 10, 2009, 18:27:42 »
Bob Gecco said "2 Hours of fun loving labor..." to change the oil filter, and presumably the oil.  2 hours?   This seemed (to me) to be quite excessive unless you were just goofing off while changing the oil and filter.  So, I made an estimate, with liberal times, starting from scratch and included cleaning up aftwards.   It turns out that the time it takes is 1.5 hrs (rounded up), and that's with liberal time estimates for each step.... I'd subract 20% for a more realistic estimate of 1 hr & 10 minutes. 

The point is only that its not really a 2 hr job... and if you're really motivated it can probably be done in as little as 30 minutes or less,  including cleanup.


4/14/09 Modification:

I made a correction to an addition error I'd made before, and consolidated the time to drain oil pan and oil filter can as separate steps, so total time dropped 2 minutes... no big deal!.  But I've now grouped the time segments to show prep, drain oil, etc. thru clean-up and put-things-back time. 

Stage   Time, min.   %
Prep   11   12.9%
Drain Oil   11.75   13.8%
Remove Filter   8   9.4%
Install Filter   7   8.2%
Fill Oil   7.25   8.5%
Checks   5.25   6.2%
Cleanup   35.1   41.1%
Total   85.35   100.0%
Of the 1.5 hrs, 40% (35 min) is just clean-up and put everything back time.  The actual work, excluding prep and clean-up is less than half the time or only 40 minutes max, and if I use 20% as an estimate of my liberal time allowances then the actual probable time to actually change the oil and filter work is about 32 minutes.  Not that prep and cleanup aren't required, but these times would not apply to a Jiffy-Lube or mechanics shop since these would be done at start of work and end of work day... therefore allocations to a single vehicle would be near nil.. 5 minutes perhaps if I'm liberal.  So in reality the most that can be saved by doing it yourself is roughly 35 minutes labor x $80/hr 40 minutes or about $45 max... but for that savings you also get the benefit of the near priceless value of knowing it was done right. 


1. Get jack & jack up front end - 5 mins
2. Place jack stands under rt & lft sides - 2 mins (if you're moving slow that day)
3. Jack down car to jack stand supports and remove floor jack from front of car - 2 min
4. Get & place waste pan / container under oil pan to drain old oil from engine - 1.5 min
5. Get 13mm & 17mm wrenchs (preferrably socket) - 0.5 min
6. Crawl / slide under engine - 0.25 min
7. Remove drain plug - 1 min
8. Loosen Oil filter bolt - 0.5 min
9. Drain engine oil & fliter can - 10 min to very last drop (if engine cold; faster if warm)
10. The following time (6 min) is in parallel with time to drain oil... so don't add to total time:
    a. Crawl / slide from under engine (0.25 min)
    b. Wipe off oily hands (0.25 min)
    c. Get 6 qts new oil from where-ever it was stored (2 min)
    d. Get long handled screw driver & flashlight or work light ready (2 min)
    e. Prepare 17 mm socket for oil filter can removal (0.5 min)
    f. Get new oil filter, included oil seal ring, drain plug washer ready - (1 min)
    g. Take a break --- sip a brew or coffee, or have a smoke (varies - at least 2 min, up to 4)
11. Crawl / slide under engine with long handle screw driver, & flashlight or work light - 0.5 min
12 Remove oil filter 17 mm bolt and pull off oil filter can - 1 min
13. Pull old oil filter off mount & place in waste oil container - 0.25 min
14. Check if upper oil seal ("donut seal" surrounding tapped bolt hole at filter can mount) is still in place (0.25 min)
     a) If so, press with screw-driver tip to determine if it's brittle or still has some give to it - 0.25 min
     b) If brittle (i.e. hard as a literal rock), remove it;  then order a new one & bottom seals too, from MB)
     c) If not brittle (i.e. not as hard as a rock) with a bit of give to it be happy  :) --- you can breath out now.
     d) If it's not there  :o, look in bottom of oil filter can for it...
         i) If its in the bottom of the oil filter can, see 12.b above
         ii) If its not in the bottom of the oil filter can  >:(  :(  :'(, pray your engine doesn't need an overhaul, refer to 12.b above 
15. Crawl / slide out from under engine with filter can & bolt - 0.25 min
16. Retrieve waste oil container with oil filter can from under engine - 0.5 min
17. Wipe up any oil drops or spills under engine - 2 min (for spic & span floor... 1 min otherwise)
18. Check bottom of oil filter can for metal debris --- hope to god you don't find any  - 1 min
19. Clean out oil filter can, remove old oil seal ring from top lip, wipe off outside surface - 2 min

Assuming bottom filter can seals and top donut seal are still ok, or that they weren't and after being pissed off, swearing at your wife, and getting over your it, you've replaced them:

20. Place new filter can 0-ring seal in lip - 2 min
21. Crawl / slide back under engine with  - 1 min
   a. oil filter can with new oil filter inside 
   b. bolt with new bolt washer
   c. 17 mm socket,
   d. 13 mm socket,
   e. Oil drain plug wth new plug washer.
22. Install oil filter can & new oil filter and install bolt with washer & tighten up (17 mm socket) - 2 min
23. Install oil drain plug with new washer and tighten up (13 mm socket) - 2 min
24. Crawl / slide back out from under engine (leave both sockets under car for now) - 0.25 min
25. Open hood (bonnet if you use British terms) - 0.5 min
26. Remove oil filler cap from top of valve cover - 0.25 min
27. Open new qrt of oil, pour into valve cover  (6x) - 6 min
    a) CRITICAL STEP: While 1st & 2nd qts of oil are filling, check under car for oil leaks -- I don't know how often someone forgets  ::)
        to have replaced &/or tighted up oil drain plug before they start pouring oil into the engine.  This is no lie.
28. Replace oil filler cap - 0.25 min.
29. Check (look) under engine for drips & leaks (assume none  ;D --- good job tightening oil drain & filter can bolts) - 0.5 min
30. Drain waste oil into empty qrt containers (a funnel helps, btw) --- 8 min
31. Clean out waste oil container - 5 min
32. Make final look-see check for oil drips from oil drain plug & oil filter can bolt - 0.25 min
33. Start engine - 1 min
34. Crawl / slide back under engine - 0.25 min
35. Watch for drips or leaks from oil drain plug and oil filter can while engine warms up - 3 min
     a) If oil starts accumuting on bolts or around / down oil filter can, tighten bolts as required (you left both the 13 mm &
        17 mm sockets under the engine (step 21) --- right? 
36. Crawl / slide back out from under engine -- take both 13 mm & 17 mm sockets  this time - 0.25 min
37. Get floor jack and jack up front of car off jack stands - 5 min
38. Remove both jack stands - 2 min
39. Jack car back down to ground - 2 min
40. Remove floor jack and return to it's normal abode - 2 min
41. Put socket wrenches, screw-driver, & flashlight or work-light away - 5 min
42. Place 6 waste-oil qrt containers with tops on in pile for next trip to Hazardous Waste Collection. - 1 min
43. Wash up hands, arms, face - 5 min
44. Tell the wife you've just saved your self $45 - 0.1 min.

TOTAL TIME  = 85.35 minutes = 1.42 Hrs = 1 Hr 26minutes
 

 
       
 
     
« Last Edit: April 14, 2009, 22:42:08 by Longtooth »

Garry

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Re: Rubber seals in the oil filter housing
« Reply #9 on: April 11, 2009, 00:03:01 »
That may be the time it takes for the job but you have not allowed for
the coffee break, 10 min X 2
 a beer break, 10 min X 2 and
the wife wanting a 'small' job' done sometime during the process, 30 min

No partner? then you can subtract the 30min and that leaves you with the extra 30 - 40 min that you could not account for in Bob's timing. Simple
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
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