I had to read that about 10 times before I figured out what you were asking.
As long as you have proper dwell angle that makes the engine run OK and you have timimg that makes the engine pull hard without pining then the numbers are only there as a guide and are not absolute. We try and set as close to the recomended numbers as possible but it's not a disaster if they're off somewhat. It's HOW the car runs that's important.
As the points wear the dwell angle will change - that's normal. I set most of my rebuilds at about 40 degrees but I will change that depending on how the unit is working. Even if everyone here understood complely it wouldn't matter because you HAVE to use a distributor machine to do all the set up. You can use a dwell/tach meter to set the points but that won't tell you start of advance, point of fire or several other key inputs to set everything up. Plus there's a number of small shims to set the end play on the main shaft and the cam lobes.
Some are fairly easy to do - some aren't. It's at least 2 - 3 hours of set up if you have expirience and sometimes all day if it won't dial in. I guess what I'm trying to say is a distributor looks like a pretty simple part. Not much in there and it all kind of makes sense - should be easy, right? Well, it is..... sort of. All I can tell you is that the most simple job can turn into more than you ever counted on when it won't work. In truth, there are NO simple jobs.
Ever strip a spark plug hole? That was supposed to be a simple job until you ended up pulling the head to fix it.