I just did this procedure on my '69 280. I wanted to add on to an existing thread (there are many, if you a looking for info on this, search "window, jaw") but couldn't find one that seem to be the most complete. I do want to thank the forum however, I probably would have really struggled without the details learned here.
I ordered the 3M "Automix" channel bond from Auto Body Tool Mart, it seemed to work well, sets up quickly.
I glass beaded the jaws, and then cleaned both them and the glass with lacquer thinner.
I used a small piece of terry cloth towel for the "felt. I applied the channel bond on the glass, both sides and the edge, then stuck the terrycloth to it. I then applied channel bond to the terrycloth, both sides and edge, and then tapped the jaws on with a hammer. Once it had set up, I used a razor knife to trim away the excess.
I find the doors easy to take apart, but you have to have a big bag of patience and just go slowly. I put painters tape, then a layer of duct tape on the outside door sill near the chrome to protect the paint.
A few things I did not find here (maybe just missed them):
I put a thin piece of wood in the jaw opening plastic inserts when I glued them on, after I realized that the channel bond would squish in through the hole if they weren't in place and pressed snugly in the locating hole.
The window glass, with jaws glued on, could not just be dropped straight down into the channels, something was interfering at the top of the forward channel, still not sure what. I had to tilt the glass forward, drop the front corner/jaw in well behind the channel, then move it forward and engage it in the channel under the top of the door, then tilt it back and engage the rear jaw in the track.
I used a couple plastic jaw woodworkers clamps on the window glass above the door to hold the glass while I attached the screws to the regulator. Worked well, but they were pretty strong clamps.
I found that the aluminum water shield around the rear channel was interfering with the guide near the bottom. It was making a grinding noise when the window was near the bottom. Took me a while to figure it out. Then I loosened the lower bolt holding the shield to the channel, slid it inward a bit, and re-tightened.
I think I got really lucky with the adjustments. I left everything real loose and just kept trying the window up and down, gradually tightening up things. Then put the top up and rolled the window up looking at the seal gap/contact. At first I was leaving a gap of nearly 3/4" at the top, then loosened the 4 bolts in the reg to glass bars, shoved the window glass up (the holes in the reg bars are oblong) and re-tightened. Everything was perfect then. I had marked the two upper and lower limit stop brackets positions before I took them off. Nice and tight window, rolls up snugly, and smoothly all the way up and down.
I think I spent 2-3 hours taking it all apart, taking the guide channels out and cleaning them up, and reinstalling them. Then a week + waiting for the channel bond to arrive (!), then probably 2-3 hours putting it all back together, including cutting a new plastic moisture barrier and gluing it in .
Thanks to the forum for the guidance, hope this help future owners doing this repair. Next comes heater control lever replacements......
