Author Topic: my 280SL renovation story  (Read 4076 times)

n/a

  • Guest
my 280SL renovation story
« on: January 05, 2004, 12:00:18 »
I have owned my '70 280SL for 10 years, and although she still looked decent I kindof mistreated her in my youth (left outside, no garage) and so lately alot of rust developed below carpets and inside wheelwells. Here is a good tip: replace leaky windshield gaskets BEFORE the floorpans all rust out! My previous car, 65 Mustang convertible, had similar bad rust issues (probably all east coast convertibles do).

Well the 280SL is now back from extensive surgery. My mechanic took alot of photos, the film is still being printed so I will post some pics later.

All exterior paint was stipped off, 1 new fender and headlamp bucket, L/R front and L/R center floorpans were replaced, new rocker panels, numerous random brackets/braces were also replaced, new rear outer tail panel. All metal pieces came from K&K Mfg and generally these were very high quality: many were OEM, some are repro with original thickness and stampings. Custom fabricated patch pieces were used in a few places. The bill: about $14,000 (incl fresh coat of 291H olive green paint).

I had already rechromed the bumpers and such a few years ago so all brightwork looks pretty good, not mint but this is no museum piece. I think the chroming ran about $1500 (TriCity in North Carolina), not alot since very few pieces needed to be sent out.

Now I am starting to install the new interior (retrim dash, door panels, new wood, horsehair cushions, seat covers, carpets, canvas top, etc). which all cost me another $3000 for materials.

Questions about the front fender area. The dirt shields were replaced, with new rubber seals against the fender side. However there still seems to be some largish gaps here which could allow water entry: at top inside fender, also a 3/4" stamped hole directly in middle of the dirt shield! Looks like there is a dead air space between the dirt shield and the front floor panel, but that water can easily splash up from the tire. Should I silicon caulk the shield to the fender? What about the big hole, why is this needed? Is there supposed to be a rubber plug?

More to come, I plan to document (w pics) my seat cover replacement.

jeffc280sl

  • Guest
Re: my 280SL renovation story
« Reply #1 on: January 05, 2004, 12:26:05 »
I have an olive green 1970 280SL also.  Mine's a 4 speed manual.  I've gone through many of the same things you have concerning the exterior.  My floor was poorly patched by the previous owner and I would like to use the correct parts from K&K.  Can you tell me where you had your work done?

Thanks

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

George Davis

  • Guest
Re: my 280SL renovation story
« Reply #2 on: January 05, 2004, 13:15:25 »
msquared,

I have new dirt shields inside the wheel wells, too, with similar gaps where the rubber seals against the fender.  I sealed the gaps with black silicone caulk, and would definitely put a plug in that hole.  Bad place to let water in, I think it can get inside the rocker frame sections from there.  The standard body plugs that many (but not all) Pagodas have in the engine compartment/inner fender area might work.  I think I've seen them listed in some supplier's catalogues.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

Malc

  • Guest
Re: my 280SL renovation story
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2004, 10:47:20 »
Hi,
I'm not sure where you live but PLEASE spend some time rustproofing your new restoration! Use Waxoyl or Dinitrol or some other equivalent cavity wax. I am always amazed by folk who restore cars and then never bother to do this, guess its all the new shiny paint, and wonder why in two years time the rust breaks through again
Cheers
MAlc
Scotland