Injection Pump issues

[menesesjesse]

I have been reading the several threads on the injection pumps.  I finally got to the point of turning my new motor over.  My problem started with the fuel lines.  I wanted to bleed them to get the air out so I can start this beast but I had no luck.  My fuel pump is good.  I have 18PSI at the injection pump and it was working with a running motor not long ago.  I have fuel coming out of the CSV line(low pressure) but I dont seem to be building any pressure in the system.  I noticed a small leak at the return end of the injection pump.  I will try to fix this today.  Can this be why I do not have any fuel pressure in my lines.  I also ensured the fuel rack is moving and it is.  I took the side cover off and I do see all 6 pistons moving when the engine is turned over.  With the injection lines off I tried to pressurize the pump and turn it over to see if it would spray out of each line. I however noticed that the 1st  3 lines were dry and the last 3 would extract some fuel.  I pulled the 19mm covers off to check the check valves and springs.  They all seemed in order and the check valves did not bind or stick.  I tried to pressurize the pump again and i saw fuel pass by each check valve without the spring and 19mm cap on. Is this a classic stuck plunger? Do I just slide the check valve out and insert a golf tee in and whack it to loosen it up With a need of a new gas tank I would like to avoid spending another 1200 on a rebuilt pump if possible.  Thanks for the help.
Jesse

[ja17]

Hello Jessie,

Do not despair.  Re-install all the springs and fittings. Torque the 19mm fittings in at 18psi. (the 280 engine torque can go to 21 psi.).  Re-move all the spark plugs so that the engine will crank easier and faster. Crank the engine with full throttle. You will see slight  amounts of fuel collecting in each fitting. Fuel is metered in small quantities so do not expect a gusher or a real squirt!  Next install the metal lines. Realize it takes a lot of cranking to fill those long fuel lines. Crack the lines loose at the injectors and continue cranking until fuel emerges from the lines. Next tinghten the fittings and crank some more at full throttle. Install the spark plugs.  The engine should fire soon.

If you have fuel, air, ccompression and spark on time it will run!

Jumping the cold start valve or a shot of starting fluid will confirm that you have spark!!

Keep in touch,

[menesesjesse]

JA
Thanks. I fixed the leak at the pump.  My plugs were out from the beginning to help get lubricating oil in the system for initial startup.  I kept them out also for checking the lines. I get fuel from the CSV and 3 of 6 the cylinders on thei njection pump side by just cranking it over . The 3 lines closest to the fuel input(rear of the pump) seem to give good fuel output.  The next 3 going towards the radiator seem dry.  When I pulled the caps, and spring I  did get fuel.  I have yet to give the system full throttle when cranking.  I will do this next to see what happens.  I am hoping for the best.  Thanks for the help here.  I cant wait to here what this new engine will sound like.  I know I have spark so it is just a matter of time before it starts. I just want be sure this injection is right before I start the motor.  My injectors are good as I have had them tested prior to their installation.  Thanks for all the help and I hope I will have some joy soon.
Jesse

[menesesjesse]

JA
Well it looks like I am getting fuel to all the cylinders now.  At the pump it looks like more fuel is coming from the 1st line that is closest to the fuel inlet.  I guess this could be considered normal since it is closest to where pressure is being applied to the pump.  I turned the car over and it ran briefly but I discovered I did not have reliable spark.  Looks like my rotor is not touching inside the cap properly.  I tested the coil and points by cycling the points and I get a giant spark from the coil to the cap. I set the enging on the # 1 cylinder and proceeded to ohm #1 cylinder female plug on the distributor cap  through the rotor to center female plug used for coil wire and I had no continuity.  I messed with it for an hour and still no joy.  I think I will need to purchase a cap and rotor now and see what happens.  Thanks for the help.  I hope to have this running soon.
Jesse 

[ja17]

Jessie,

The rotor never touches the individual contacts for each cylinder in the distributor cap. It comes close enough for the spark to jump. You will not have continuity between the center coil conection and the individual spark plug wire connections.   Only the center connection point contacts the rotor. Use the ohm meter to check each spark plug end. You can also use the ohm meter to check the resistance in the rotor itself.

[menesesjesse]

Joe
Thanks for the info.  I should have known that.  I fiddled with it yesterday and it turned out to be the post that connects the points to the coil.  The post was grounded and was giving me the no spark condition.  I fixed it and moved on to better things.  I buttoned up some items and went to start the car and it came to LIFE .  The motor was a little rough at first but I ran it for 20 minutes and looked for obvious leaks and found none till I started adding tranny fluid.  This was an easy fix since it was coming from a fitting that was a little loose.  The motor looks and sounds great. I was so happy to see 6 months of work pay off.  I can only say thanks to the forum and all the wisdom here.  I have some tuning issues but I will tackle them one at a time.  I will adjust the dwell and timing later this weekend.  I have a slight hesitation of idle that will need to be addressed through some tuning.  Car may be running a little lean also but I will verify once I check the plugs.  Again thanks for everything.
Jesse

[ja17]

Happy Motoring Jesse!