Head Re-torque - best way to get engine hot??

[rogerh113]

Hi,

Probably a silly question, but what is the best approach to getting the engine hot for the re-torque??  I figure if I drive it to hot,  the parts be too hot to handle till the temperature drops too low.  Do you pull off all of the bits aside from the valve cover and run it until it's hot??

Regards -- Roger

[SteveK]

I just drove my car around a little until it reached full temp.   The only things you have to pull off are the pieces above the valve cover (vent line, throttle linkage) and the cover itself.   The cover will be hot, but easily handleable with gloves.   You do not have to touch anything else.  I used a screwdriver to clean the oil out of the studs and then just used an extension on the allen wrench socket to put it in the stud head.    A few times the socket separated from the extension and it was no problem to use a glove and pull it out.

The write up in the tech manual is great!  (you do need to follow the torquing sequence called out)

[rogerh113]

Thanks - makes more sense than having it idle away in the garage....

Also, checking my tools, I have only 3/8 drive 10mm long BALL end hex, and a shortie 3/8 10mm hex.  I assume that in this application the ball end may be an accident waiting to happen, and the shortie will be, well, too short....  Any suggestions for a source and brand for the 10mm long (1/2 drive I assume).  The cost of damaging the head bolts seems too high to skimp on the socket....

Regards -- Roger

[SteveK]

I went to my favorite tool place in Houston (Tool Club) and they had a set that went up to 10mm.  The one I got was 3/8's, but at 80 ft-lbs as I was doing it I wished I had one that was 1/2 inch drive.   I had not torqued a head at 80 ft-lbs  before and as my bolts tightend, it felt like the bolt head was going to spin off.  Really nice to hear the click each time!  I agree it would not be good to go with the rounded head allen wrench, buggering up a stud would be a real pain.   

The next time I do mine I will go to Sears and get one with a 1/2 inch drive, most tool places also sell individual sockets with allen heads made by S-K which are real good.

[ja17]

Hello,

1/2" drive 10mm allen is best by far.  The length is not critical. I prefer the long ones, but the quality must be good or they will bend or break. Craftsman, Snap-on, Blue Point, S-K, Mac, Hazet, are some of the better brands.

[Benz Dr.]

Hummmm..... anyone who doesn't trust a 3/8 drive 10 mm allen socket either has really cheap wrenches or they just don't trust. My best sockets are all 3/8 drive below 12 mm.
 I broke one of those ball type sockets once taking a screw out of a 380SL but they were really hard to break loose. They're only 8 mm so I'm not surprised.

Let the engine cool at bit first. It only needs to be warm and not '' burn your fingers''  hot.

[menesesjesse]

I just retorqued my head last week.  I used a craftsman 3/8 with a 1/2 adaptor for the torque wrench.  The 3/8 drive worked fine and they are availiable from sears as a set for 30 bucks.  Hope this helps

[rogerh113]

Thanks for all of the info.  Sounds like I have everything that I need - just need to execute!!

Thanks -- Roger

[rogerh113]

Hi,

Head retorque went flawlessly - really simple process that took less than 1/2 hour from start to finish.  I used a 3/8 sears 10mm shortie, which worked ok.  I can see the value of a long drive, as the tolerance with the cam supports, etc. were pretty tight.  Given how fast it was, I will probably incorporate it into the valve adjustment process, as once you have done it, the risk of long-term seizure of the head bolts is probably much reduced (and most of the 1/2 hour time is stuff you would have to do for a valve adjustment anyway).

Stunning content in the process documentation - the group really contributes to the ongoing survival of the 113 !!

Regards -- Roger

[bpossel]

Question.... (based on Rogers post...)

I would think that a valve adjustment must be done after the head bolts have been retorqued, that this is not an option?
bob

[jacovdw]

Bob, the short answer is yes.

Retorque the cylinderhead bolts with the engine warm and then allow the engine to cool and check/re-adjust valve clearances.

I usually let the engine cool overnight and that gives me a chance to do other service/maintenance items at leisure.