Author Topic: troubleshooting dash lights  (Read 5065 times)

Joe

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troubleshooting dash lights
« on: July 13, 2009, 23:15:05 »
My dash lights have not worked, ever since I took the instruments out for repair. All the fuses appear to be ok.
What should I check next?
Joe

66andBlue

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Re: troubleshooting dash lights
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2009, 23:30:53 »
Step one: check your ground connections behind each instrument!
Did you replace the bulbs?
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

Joe

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Re: troubleshooting dash lights
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2009, 03:16:59 »
No, I don't think I replaced the bulbs, but I do know I put ground wires on the back of each instrument. Is there a "central" ground wire, i.e. one that all of the individual ones connect to?
Joe

66andBlue

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Re: troubleshooting dash lights
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2009, 03:23:10 »
No, each one (or at least in my 230SL) has a ground wire.
Did you turn the rheostat completely CW? CCW shuts the lights off. If the rheostat is the problem try turning it several times in each direction and see whether some lights come on during the process.
Also search for "rheostat", you'll find more suggestions if that is the problem.
Good luck.
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

seattle_Jerry

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Re: troubleshooting dash lights
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2009, 06:37:17 »
After you fix it, replace the bulbs while your dash is out. It would suck to have a old bulb go bad the next week.

Allenh

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Re: troubleshooting dash lights
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2009, 20:32:05 »
Are all of the illumnation lights out?  You asked if there is a central ground.  there is.  If you had your instruments out, you would have seen it.  There are a good number of brown ground wires secured to the upper side of the lower dash frame.  Accessable at the radio opening.   The grounds for the cig lighter and a couple of other things are all grouped up there.  What else doesn't work?  I always suggest a Volt-ohm meter and look for voltage at 12 volts.  You can easily determine if you are missing the B+ or the B-, ground.

Allen