Minor DIY f***-up Soft Top Compartment Seal

[Ulf]

Yesterday, I decided to replace the soft top compartment seal with a fresh new one - that didn't go well...
But maybe sharing my misery can be useful to others, so here goes.
I removed the old seal that was so brittle that it came apart, cleaned the channel where the seal sits and degreased it before trial fitting the new one without glue - so far, everything went fine. I put a thin layer of contact adhesive on both the new seal and on the channel and started squeezing. the seal in. Although I had used a minimal amount of glue, it started seeping out and when I wiped the excess glue away with a piece of cloth, the felt covering the parts of the seal towards the softtop hinges came off in big lumps of black, woolly gunk. But I still managed to make if look half decent, but then moved on to my next mistake. As the seal didn't want to stay in the channel while the glue was still wet, I fixed it in place with masking tape that held it together nicely. After a couple of hours, I gently removed the tape and everything looked pretty good after all. Then I made the final and biggest mistake (it's okay to laugh) - I decided to finish off the entire thing by spraying a thin coat of WD40 around the edges of the entire seal to make sure that the metal underneath was protected in case the seal should trap water - then the whole seal came right off in my hands!!! :'(
I'll start from scratch with a new seal soon - or at least when I have recovered enough self confidence to try again.
Hope this can be helpful to others

[ja17]

Hello Ulf,

Use a good brand weatherstip adhesive like 3M or Mercedes Trim Adhesive.  The biggest mistake most people make is not letting both surfaces of the adhesive dry completely before putting the trim in place. Be careful using WD40 it will loosen the adhesive.  It actually makes a pretty good adhesive remover!

[gnj588d]

I took my seal out last week to check for water, it was quite wet I then dried the channel and painted it with Hamerite smooth but I would not consider gluing it again the seal stays in place ok and now I can check it perodically ,it was glued before I started and become a water trap. just a thought. Good Luck Mike

[Ulf]

Joe & Jim - WD40 certainly is great at removing glue - also when it wasn't the intention Will remember to let it dry before mating the two parts when I re-do the whole thing saturday. I too would prefer not to glue it in place, but it simply won't sit in its' channel by itself. But they do trap water, hence my experiment with WD40...

[johnshenry]

My favorite contact adhesive is 3M Super 90.  Home Depot sells it in a spray can.  Most of the time I spray it into a ketchup cup and apply it with a brush. although it has an adjustable nozzle and can be sprayed in a narrow strip with virtually no overspray.  Important to apply it to both surfaces, then let it dry quite a bit (2-3 mins).  It is an excellent strong glue.

WD-40 really wouldn't waterproof anything, not for long anyway.  As someone pointed out, it is best to strip it and paint it first.  WD-40's best use (as already pointed out) is an adhesive/tar remover and hand cleaner.......!!

Good luck, no harm done with your attempt, just move on..

[Ulf]

I know that WD-40 won't make it waterproof, I was merely the intention (hope) to have it creep in and protect the steel under the seal from water ingress - but that didn't go well. We don't have Home Depot here, but 3M is available - have used it before to glue the sound deadening pad onto the underside of the hood of a W124 estate I once owned and it was a really good adhesive...

[Dick]

Ulf - I have installed two tops and one headliner on two separate cars and have always used Mercedes glue (trim adhesive).  Never had a problem and would recommend it highly.

[Ulf]

Thank Dick, is this available from MB directly?

[JamesL]

I need to change mine over the next month or two but have a question....

It's held in at either end by the chromed capping that also protects the hinge mechanism etc.

That seems to be held on - inside the soft-top well - with two cross head screws and what on my car looks like a Torx bolt. However, I am not sure if I need to remove the cap to get the seal out. in the picture, it's the outboard of the three screw heads on the chrome facing you

[Larry & Norma]

Hi Tosh
When I did mine I removed all three scews and took off the complete plate.
It was not difficult and allowed any rust treatment which may be required.
The tab on the new seal fits under the plate so complete removal is best.
Larry

[JamesL]

Thanks Larry

That is a Torx bolt ? And I should not attempt removal with a hex/Allen key?

[clembeauch63712]

Hi Guys; Researched pricing  and ordered all my Seals from the American parts co. Rock Auto - they are made by APA - Uro in Simi Vally CA. prices were far cheaper than anyone else & quality is every bit as excellent as factory.. Oh and fit is perfect (even my windshield molding.. Hope this saves Ulf and he can do them offten til he gets it riite.. hehe.. I always use solicone spray (CRC brand ) to lube & noruish the rubber part and will also repell water & best of  all it wont stain your clothing..My 2 cents hope it helps   Clem

[66andBlue]

.... That is a Torx bolt ? And I should not attempt removal with a hex/Allen key?

Yes it is - and moreover it is the wrong bolt! I would buy/borrow the proper Torx key and then throw the bolt away.
Correct countersunk screw: p/n 000063 008129