Fuel Tank Blues-Help

[BMWTom]

Last fall I had my fuel tank cleaned and relined, and I thought that the guy who did it knew what he was doing. Turns out that he sealed up the intake to the flower pot. So after haggling with the guy, I took it to another guy in town who does the same work. He says that if you coat the plastic flower pot with fuel tank liner, that it will eventually lose it's adhesion to the plastic and be eaten away thus really fouling up the fuel system. In short, he told me to get another tank.

Soooo.......now that I've already blown $160.00 on the cleaning and a reline.......what should I do? A, find a used tank or B, pay the $1,100.00 or so for a new one? The car is driver quality (okay, not so drivable right now). Anyone have a lead on a tank? '67 250SL Euro.

[geezer]

On my 280SE I was able to access the inlet for the "flower pot" through the tank sender port.  I used a speedo cable driven by an electric drill to free up the guck that had pluged the port.  I also ran the speedo cable through the draw and return pipes.

Can the tank lining be removed?  When I had my tank cleaned I was cautioned to not have it lined.  The reasoning is that the stuff that is used to line the tank can not only plug the inlet to the flower pot but can plug the itty bitty tank vent lines.

If you lined the tank because of pin holes, those can be soldiered shut once the tank is clean and free of gas.

[rogerh113]

Hi,

Went through the same process as you did several years ago.  The relined tank worked ok for me for a while, but then got clogged (I assumed from the material peeling on the inside - I don't know). 

I did try a used tank, but it turned out the neck of the used tank was at a slightly different angle from angle of my original tank, so it did not fit.  If you are going with the used tank, check to make sure the neck is identical.  If not, you are going to have a tough (or impossible...) time getting it through the hole in the body....   I don't know if the euro bodies are exactly the same as the US bodies, and if your car is a '67.  I also think that '67 was a transition year for a lot of things, so what side of the transition you are (vs the gas tank is) may be relevant.  Sorry to raise all of these complications, but they may be relevant to fitment.

I ultimately got a new tank.  Slipped in perfectly and has worked flawlessly since.  My car is very much a driver, I drive it a good deal, and the important thing for me is that it drives well.....  I had to view the new tank as an investment which should hopefully last the life of the car if treated properly.

Good luck -- Roger

[114015]

Roger,

Good advice. On the long run a new gas tank is certainly the best solution.

As to non-fitting used tanks...
there are no basic differences between Euro and US tanks or the sheet metal per se (with the exception of the side marker lenses where applicable).
Most likely you got a used one that was slightly dammaged (e.g. hit from behind or so) which is why it did not fit correctly.

There are only three tanks for the W113 - not more.
1) Early 230 SLs up to serial 000202 - 65 liters (different position of the outgoing lines)
2) all other 230 SLs - also 65 liters
3) 250-280 SL gas tank - 82 liters
The latter fits also for 230ies without sparewheel well.

One additional possibility to get out the dirt, rust or sealant from the flower pot more easily is to  cut in a servicing opening (e.g. where the tank sending unit sits) so that you can access the inside easier than through the pretty narrow opening of the tank sending unit.
After cleaning the opening needs to be (welded - if no gas fumes are aroung anymore) or closed by a kind of lid which you can built from the cutted-out opening.
A handicraft job.

Good luck
Achim

[bpossel]

Get a new tank!  Anything else will only cause future issues (fuel pump, ip pump, etc...).
Contact Dave Gallon.  He may be able to save you $$$ on a nice new tank.
Bob

[ja17]

Hello,

Don't forget to check the intake fitting on the electric fuel pump.  It has a filter screen built into it. It will most likely be clogged and a new fuel tank will do you no good until it is clear.

[ja17]

Hello,

I just fixed a Pagoda with a bad fuel tank.  The car would start and idle fine but would not accelerate. It was starving for fuel except at idle when fuel demands of the engine were the lowest. The car was in Florida storage for some years.  In the Florida heat, the fuel evaporated down and left a varnish coating on the fuel screen in the tank and the intake fitting of the electric fuel pump.  I removed the tank, sent it to a radiator shop to be boiled out. It was not very rusty inside,  so it was not coated. All passage ways in the tanks were checked with compressed air.
The fuel drain screen and the fuel pump intake screen were nearly completely coated with a tough fuel varnish left from the evaporated fuel. Carb cleaner, brake kleen, lacquer thinner, stoddard solvent, paint thinner, WD 40 will not desolve this stuff. It melts away quickly and easily with cheap easy to get rubbing alcohol.  

Once a clean fuel supply with correct volume and pressure was restored, all driving problems went away.

[BMWTom]

Thanks to all for the feedback. Its sounds like the best way to go is to bite the bullet and go with a new tank. The local MB dealer can get one for $1,098.00. I guess I'll have to postpone restoring the interior this year, but I would rather have a clean and trouble free fuel system.

[geezer]

Before biting the $1098.00 bullet, I saw some $750.00 aftermarket tanks.  I'll see if I can find them again.  If you are a MBCA member the MB classic center will give you a discount.  Tom Hanson is very helpful.

thomas.hanson@mbusa.com

[Dave Gallon]

Just for the record, the 250/280 SL fuel tank is a 113 470 07 01. The list as of 1/1/2010 is $1070, my price $750.61. There is stock within MB USA.