230SL -64 with problems between 2-3000 rpm

[A-230]

My first post here so be patient, also with the technical words for a Norwegian

I bought my -64 230SL with manual gear nearly 2 years ago. It starts very easily when cold, sometimes not so easily when hot (yes I have read all the posts , but between 2-3000 rpm it has a problem. I am not sure of the American word for it. Not at all a steady output from the engine. Seems like the engine cuts and starts with only seconds in between. It is terrible to run when little or  almost no pressure on the speeder, almost OK when speeding or releasing the speeder. Both on cold and warm engine. In all 4 gears. The former owner and others tell me all pagodas are like that. I cannot really understand Mercedes would produce it to be like that.

Anyone with similar experience? Solutions?

Thanks in advance!

[jameshoward]

My car is two years younger than yours (a late 230) and it isn't like that.

Have you ruled out the basics, like done the linkage tour, and set the dwell. the valve clearance and timing by the book? Points and spark plugs and wires all OK and plugs gapped according to the manual? Fuel injection pump oil ok (remove the dipstick and check the level; see if it's correct; hopefully oil doesn't pour out when you open it). If your car is as built, your fuel injection pump will have a self contained oil supply. Cold start device functioning correctly/not leaking?

It may be sensible to conduct all these procedures (lots of info in the Wiki (tech manual) and on the site) to rule them out as factors before looking at more complex issues. 

Let us know how you get on.

JH

PS - I think that the English term you may be searching for is 'accelerator' rather than 'speeder.'

[A-230]

Thanks James !

Most of the checks you mention has been done last summer. I have a full set of filters, sparkplugs, etc in order from SLS now, so will replace and see. The cold start device replaced, the dip stick checked and found OK. All linkage adjusted. Fuel injection pump serviced two years ago.

I have read everything I could find in here the last couple of weeks. Impressingly good. I have learnt a lot. From what you say my motor should not be like it is between 2-3000 rpm, so I just got to continue the hunt for adjustments and faults

[J. Huber]

It sounds like it could be the points? or the timing may be off? Have you checked this recently?

[jameshoward]

I think a sensible next step could be to do the Joe Alexander 'is my car running rich/lean' test involving a minor disconnection of the linkage (you'll have read about it already, I'm sure). Or stick it on a CO2 meter (I've never done the latter). Your symptoms sound like mine, and my rebuilt pump was running lean. I had to enrich the mixture at idle and then get the right balance using the air idle screw (having done the linkage to death).

Make sure SLS don't sell you resistor plugs (they did that to me once, I think by mistake).

You could also take the distributor out and visually inspect for any obvious flaws. (Some good posts on here about that, also). Check the vacuum retard works OK (you should have a 051 distributor - I think!)

JH

[A-230]

The timing has been checked, but the distributor is a bit "tired", so I am evaluating to replace it with a new electronic one.

The more I read about the subject, the more I agree in the direction of it running lean. Yes I have read the Joe Alexander "test". I will try it.

Thanks for the tip of resistor plugs, I will check when I receive them. Normally I would buy them in Norway, but it seemed convenient to take the hole set including filters from SLS. Time will show.

[hauser]

I had similar problems and it was solved with the installation of a Crane XR700.  Unfortunately the Crane died at an early age and was replaced with the new 123 electronic ignition.  If you want a cheaper fix you may want to go with a Pertronix?

[merl]

using the pertronix on my 280sl easy to install works great about $100 took away the miss at 2-2500 rpm   purchased a second unit to carry as a spare