Author Topic: FIP Tutorial  (Read 5818 times)

Naj ✝︎

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FIP Tutorial
« on: May 21, 2010, 15:55:58 »
Loads of other Pagoda interest items on the same site  ;D

http://weboldtimer.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=58&Itemid=69&lang=en

naj
68 280SL

66andBlue

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #1 on: May 21, 2010, 17:11:30 »
Nice find, Naj!
Thanks for the link - the report on the 250SL €148K restoration is quite informative.
« Last Edit: May 21, 2010, 22:41:34 by 66andBlue »
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

Jonny B

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2010, 00:29:23 »
Most impressive indeed, but i still have to scratch my head over $148K for a Pagoda.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

hauser

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2010, 02:45:09 »
Go to the section "Body Ironing Works" then scroll down to the third pic from the bottom.  See anything missing on the firewall?

66andBlue

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2010, 03:20:23 »
Jonny B,
you need to scratch even deeper - it $186K  :o (= €148K). However, I doubt that a job like this one would cost less when done by one of the top restorers here.
Hauser,
if you are looking for the plug that covers the heater valve then you may be surprised. They show a 230SL and if it is a very early one then this is correct. Perhaps James Huber can confirm this.
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

hauser

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2010, 04:47:12 »
Alfred, if so how did they gain access to the valve?   Perhaps it was located elsewhere?  Anyway it's a cool fact to know!
« Last Edit: May 22, 2010, 04:48:48 by hauser »

jacovdw

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2010, 09:16:41 »
The very early 230SL's did not have the rubber plug in the firewall to gain access to the heater valve.
The rubber plug was introduced in June 1964 (from chassis number 004350 onwards to the 250 and 280SL's).

Hauser,

The heater core and valve assembly used on these earlier cars are the same as the ones used for the rest of the pagoda population.

On these early cars, the only way to gain proper access to the heater core valve is to remove the heater core from under the dashboard after some major disassembly of the dash...

A nasty job to do - been there and got the T-shirt as my pagoda is a Feb 1964 "vintage"
« Last Edit: May 24, 2010, 19:43:19 by jacovdw »

Jonny B

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2010, 23:08:17 »
Alfred,

After I hit the send key, I was pondering if I had missed the Euro versus the dollar, although in the last couple of days the difference has dwindled down a bit.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

lurtch

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #8 on: May 24, 2010, 03:22:31 »
WOW - - - what a thoroughly EXCELLENT production this is!      Nice detective work Naj !!

Also, what a testament to the skill and expertise of the BOSCH engineers to have designed such a complicated device that works so well for so long!

 I scares me to think about how far out of calibration some our FI pumps might be by now and still they continue to perform acceptably.

Larry in CA
Larry Hemstreet  in  N. Cal.

1966  230SL  (restored) Met. Anthracite w/ Maroon leather
1981  300TD-T (Concours condition, 86K, GETRAG 5sp.)
1982  300TD-T (parted out)
1986  560SEC (totaled)
1991  300TE (gifted)
1998  E320 (sold)
2004  E320 wagon (gifted)
2008  CLK550 Cabriolet

hauser

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #9 on: May 24, 2010, 03:30:35 »
I just had some work done to mine.  I don't exactly know what he did but the car is running beautifully.  He did say that he adjusted the rack.

J. Huber

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #10 on: May 26, 2010, 20:43:58 »
Yes, Jaco and Alfred are correct, the earlier cars had a straight-edged firewall ridge and no access hole. Mine started off that way but was "modified" by some overzealous mechanic along the way. He took the liberty to gouge a hole to get to the heater valve. This was the olden days before I subjected mechanics to an FBI background check! I did not notice it until I replaced the padding in 1999. Anyway, I used my tin snips to cut a much rounder hole and stuck an access plug in it. Made the best of the situation...
James
63 230SL

jacovdw

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Re: FIP Tutorial
« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2010, 09:07:46 »
James,

That is just downright sad that a mechanic would butcher your car like that...

If you are a stickler for originality, you can always have a piece of metal welded in one day if you are going the "nuts and bolts resto" way.

Then you sacrifice easy access to the heater valve...