Rear drum brake shoe thickness?

[seattle_Jerry]

I see where its says the minimum thickness for the brake shoes....but I'm getting mine re-shoed. What is the maximum or original thickness?

[RickM]

Jerry,

As a starting point, I believe 3/16" is a very common thickness used by reliners. Are you having it done by a professional? Will they inspect the shoe for damage, re-arc, coat (paint) metal frame and use the proper rivets (I doubt they're bonded) when refurbishing?

If there are cracks in the metal frame of the shoe they should not be repaired and reused. Many prefer the hollow brass rivets over other attachment methods.
Antiques car restorers sometimes go with the thickest brake media that fits within the drum. So, there may be a level of play to work with.

My 2 cents....

[Benz Dr.]

Well that's what 2 cents worth of free advice will get you.......

[RickM]

If you notice: "As a starting point"

Have anything better to offer other than an insult?

[graphic66]

I have something, the brake shoes in my 230SL are bonded. I have not seen any riveted shoes for the SL. Most times you purchase the whole brake shoe and return your used ones as a core. The 230SL brake shoes are rare and expensive from my past experience. I just switched over to 4 wheel disc though, so my drum days are over. Although there is a company here in Rochester known Worldwide for brake and clutch rebuilding. Rochester Clutch and Brake http://www.rochesterclutch.com/ They can reline your shoes and arc them to your drums if you wish. That is the proper technique, but it is rarely done that way. Most people just buy shoes, turn the drums and put it back together. That is all I have ever done except for on my Unimog, that had huge drum brakes and riveted shoes and Mercedes only sold the pads/shoes with rivets and it takes special equipment to rivet on the shoes. 

[seattle_Jerry]

This place is down the street from me...

http://cascadefriction.com

Thanks for the input...I didn't think about arcing. It may be overkill for my purposes. We'll see how just turning the drums and new pads bonded to the shoes goes.

[graphic66]

Be careful turning the drums. Some people running the machine take to big of bites to quickly and turn the drums farther than needed. Most times this is not a problem. But the drums for your 230SL are about $2000.00 each brand new. In watched while mine were turned and wouldn't let them out of my sight. I explained to the shop my concern and they were very accommodating. Just turn enough to clean them up and break the glaze on the surface, and take small amounts on each pass as not to get the metal too hot.
   I know there are less expensive alternatives to new drums such as relining the old ones or buying a set of used ones from me. But if you can avoid the added expense by carefully turning the drums it would be good.
  Rochester Clutch and Brake also can make the pads thicker to make up for drums turned beyond specs, at least in my Case of the Unimog they said I didn't need to buy new drums, but I did anyways. Brakes are the most important element of your car, no shortcuts. Also while your in there flush the brake fluid and of course clean everything up and get everything moving freely.

[Benz Dr.]

Well.......... if 33 working on these same cars is worth more than two cents then I'd call that a sarting point. 

 The shoes are 10mm from the back including the new material when new. They are never riveted on but it could be done that way. Expect half the pad life if you go that route.
Arcing the shoes is more usefull on front brakes but then you're talking 190SL's so I wouldn't get too worried here.
The rear drums are alfin and are exspensive new. The rear drums on 113's are the same as front 190SL drums so used ones are around and usually well worn. You can't re-line a brake drum. Get a different one. 

 
   As a general word of advice, take EVERYTHING you see and hear around this site with an eye of suspicion and grain of salt. A lot of what you see, read and hear is BS. Some of it is very correct info and some of it is pulled from this site or other internet sites by those who are good at finding information but that's all. Hey, after all, it's just information, right?

This isn't a bad place for info but it's a good as the prople who put it here. In other words, make sure when it comes to really important stuff like brakes. That might mean having to ask someone who works of this stuff or, god forbid, a '' real mechanic. '' 

 

[69280sl]

Rick:
I for one (and I'm sure there are many others) appreciate that you responded to a request for information.

Gus

[graphic66]

Here is a place that can reline alfin drums http://jgrefinishing.com/index.html  I knew I had heard about this process, I think it was on this site. They also have them listed for sale at K&K for $1050.00 each. I am not sure if the relining is practical, but it is possible. I am not a real mechanic, just a backyard hamfist, but I do play one on the internet.

[RickM]

Rick:
I for one (and I'm sure there are many others) appreciate that you responded to a request for information.

Gus

Gus, Thanks for the kind words. I have holes in my tongue from biting it.

BTW, I have a stationary pneumatic brass riveter for sale if interested.  

[Benz Dr.]

356 cars have aluminuim brake drums with cast liners similar to what MB used. Those might rare enough that you could justfy the exspense. If the rear drums are that worn out on your 230SL you can always get used ones or simply use the full cast biron types. I'm pretty sure you car won't notice all that much.
About half of the 230SL's service have cast rear drums. I can't imagine anyone paying 1000 bucks for a brake drum......

[seattle_Jerry]

So 10mm including the thickness of metal it sits on?

[guitarlover]

I think the best thickness is 3/16.


Drum Shop

[Benz Dr.]

Yeah, 10mm includes the brake shoe material or backing.