fuel injection pump

[IXLR8]

Hi--

My 230SL hasn't run in at least ten years, likely more. At this point the car is apart, gas tank not installed, no radiator, etc.

I've read the fuel injection tour--great stuff, and thanks to all who have contributed to it.

My question is--what do I do first to determine the condition of the pump--varnish, rust, pistons moving freely, etc.

1. Should I remove the pump from the engine?

2. If on the engine, should I try to move it by rotating the crankshaft, or?

3. Should I remove the access covers if on the engine to see what's moving inside?

The fuel injection tour is a great overview, but I need to start with the basic basics.

Thanks in advance for your usual kind assistance.

Joe

[ja17]

Hello,

The very first thing you need to do is make sure that the fuel supply (fuel tank, screens, filters and lines) are clear.  Drain the  old fuel and add fresh.  Now see if the electric fuel pump still runs. Check the oil level in the injection pump.

Remove all the spark plugs, squirt a little lube in the cylinders, leave the plugs out and crank the engine at full throttle. You may want to crack open the injector lines at the head so you can see when fuel arrives at the injector. Tighten each line down as fuel emerges. When all six are primed and tight, install the plugs and continue cranking at full throttle. It should fire after a bit more cranking.

Prior to this confirm that the engine is getting spark (hole coil wire near grounded metal) while someone cranks.

Keep us up to date.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Bob Killam]

Hi,
   My 250 had been stored for many years (1983) and after checking the  fact that fresh clean fuel was flowing we started the car,It was hitting on 3 cylinders.The problem turned out to be stuck pistons in the injector pump,We took the lines from the top off and looked inside,Some penetrating oil and A slight tap with A wooden dowel was what it took to fix.This was 7 years ago and I do believe we looked at one cylinder that was working to see what was supposed to be happening,That was 11000 miles ago and car is running great,I was very lucky on that simple repair 

[IXLR8]

Thanks for the encouragement.

My car is all apart, just having come back from the body shop.

I'm going to start down below changing all the rubber hoses, bushings, etc. Also, I need to install the new exhaust, the fuel tank, brakes, wheel cylinders, calipers, etc., etc., etc.

Then, above, I need to change the ignition wiring, plugs, points, install the radiator, hoses, new brake and clutch master cylinders and clutch slave, all the instruments, lights, etc.

Then I'll be ready for the big test as described by Joe A.

I'll keep you posted, but it won't be soon.


Joe

[jeffc280sl]

Hi Joe,  You can take a peek inside the fip by removing the side panel.  Here is what you will see.  You have a lot of work ahead.  As you have issues let us know and we can offer some help.  What exhaust system are you installing?  Have you though about the 123Ignition system?

Best of luck

[IXLR8]

Hi Jeff--

Thanks for the heads up.

I am installing a stainless exhaust that I got from K&K. They said that it is made for them in England. It looks great.

I haven't thought about a 123 ignition.  I believe that I will go with a Pertronix. I have one in my VW Thing and I had one in my Super Beetle Convertible.  Each installation worked flawlessly.


Joe