Rear axle bushing

[Rick007]

Hello Guys , is there someone who can tell me what the trick is how to install the bronze bushings and then the rod with the metal
bushings . It seems that there are several ways in doing this without damaging the rod.
I've read about the dry-ice method but that's not available overhere . And then there's that guidpin that should keep your both sides of the axle all lined-up , along with the washers
and rubbers that go between the both halves of the axle.  SLS give me note that i should first connect the pin that goes up through the booth , but i just cannot get this in my head as being logical , just makes no sense .
Looking at it i think the order could be :  First press in the copper bushings ( is straightforward ) then press on ( or with hot and cold technique) the first metall bushing
, i mean the one that goes on halfway on the shaft , and then press them trough with the brass rivets in place . But then if you've achieved that without damage !! you still need to press through , and on , the second metal bushing   How to do this without damage is whats puzzling me .

I searched the forum but just cant find the right sequence for doing this , so please help :}
 
At this moment i have both axle halves in primer and still need to paint but would like to get it back together next week .


RICK007
'67 250 SL

[ctaylor738]

I just finished doing this on my 3.23 axle.  I am writing up the complete procedure for the wiki, but here is an early release of the part you are looking for.

Position the axle tube in place.  Remember that the support shaft is installed from the rear.  Grease the support shaft and do a trial fit because it needs to slide in fairly easily with at most a bit of gentle tapping at the end. What you may find is that the shaft has been damaged around the notch where the wedge bolt is driven in.  You will see/feel the shaft stop at this point if this is the case.  Use a file and emery cloth to clean up any protrusions in this area, until the shaft slides in smoothly.
 
Position the carrier in its mount at the front of the differential.  Slip the two rubber rings that will go between the tube and the differential joints over the attachment points on the tube.  Install the new bellows on the differential and axle tube with the word "oben" facing up on the tube side.  Use some wooden shims to hold the the tube in positiion and begin to slide the shaft in.  Be sure to keep the two notches in the rear of the shaft horizontal as this aligns the notch for the wedge bolt.  As the shaft approaches the joints between the tube and the differential, and the differential and the carrier, introduce the spacers and washers.  With the shaft all the way through, install the lock washer and bolt on the front, and the rubber ring, washers, and circlip on the rear.  Pop the rubber rings into their positions between the tube and differential.
 
Maneuver and secure the assembly so that you can install the wedge bolt and nut in the bottom.  Use the notches in the rear of the support shaft to align the shaft so the bolt will go through into position.

[Benz Dr.]

On almost every axle I've had apart the right side portion is bent where the shaft slides through. Once you install new parts nothing will fit right and the shaft won't slide through without a lot of force.
I have the factory tool to check the alignment of the eyes where the shaft fits. I've often had to heat one side or the other and straighten everything before I moved on with assembly. Once this part is perfectly straight assembly with new parts is considerably easier if you want to call it easy to do to begin with 

[Naj ✝︎]

Hello, Rick,

I was able to pull and push the bronze bushings with a length of 12mm studding, nuts and washers and some sockets.
The two inner O rings can be put over the yokes while assembling. The inner front O ring should be put in place (thru the gap) before pushing the roll pin thru.
I put the end steel bush on the roll pin before starting assembly. The middle one can be left in the bronze bush and then the pin pushhed thru it when installing pin.
I hope the pictures will clarify.
I was lucky the the roll pin came off and went back in without trouble, unlike the trouble that James Howard had. See his thread.
Good luck with the fitting.
naj

[Rick007]

Thanks guys , 

Still a bit in the dark here , but i think i get what you mean .
So at this moment I've got the brass bushes pressed in , and asking around , i found out that these are to be reamed , so the metal bushes will fit .
Ordered a suitable reamer and i should arrive any day now.  And yes Naj i read the trouble James had , that's whats scaring me :[
It seems , for now at least , i think i know what the sequence is .  And will check the aligns of the yoke ... found that a bit off  (on sight only for now )

But reading your advice is , if i understand you all correctly , : Bronze bushings in place , line up axle halves and place rubbers  , trail fit with grease , press on back metal bushing ,
Carrier on mounting and bolted to diff housing , front metal bushing in bronze bushing and then slide in rod with rings and spacers into place .

Hope this is it , but what will happen when i reach the second metal bushing ??  I assume hammering in is out of the question :]
looking at your pictures Naj i see you have your axle bolted and secured onto a workbench , is that so you can press the last bit i mentioned ?

Rick007




 

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Rick,

Mine went in with light tapping.
One advantage I had was that I have borrowed the tapered pin that David Brough (see his rear axle posts) made.
It helps to centre the main pin as you push it home, but I guess if the yokes are properly aligned, you could get away without it.

naj

[Rick007]

Thanks Naj ,

After studying your pictures a bit better i now know what you mean .
Hope it l work out this way on my axle ....will post experience later .

RICK007
'67 250SL