Ignition lock problem

[paults1]

Two weeks ago I was going to take a drive in my '63 230SL. Turned the ignition key and no start. Read all the threads & Technical Manual for this subject.  Removed the right side of the sterring wheel leather dash piece to expose the small opening in the dash metal.  With fingers I felt the wires & connector & used a small inspection mirror to see if any problems.  With fingers I can sightly move the entire locking assembly up & down.  While I was moving the lock assembly, my friend turned the ignition key & the car started, but not always.  So, I wonder if the lock to the sterring column is worn or the electrical contact to the starter is worn.  With ignition switch on I am able to start the car by direct wire to the + side of the battery & the gray wire to the starter.  So I have installed a cheap horn button under the dash & the car starts much better & faster ever since I have owned this car. This winter I plan on the bloody removal procedure of the lock & either attempt a repair or a repalcement if still available.  Does anyone know if new ones are available or know anyone who can repair it??  I know that the later 250SL & 280SL assemblies are available but not sure these will wok in my 230SL.
Any instruction or advice is most welcome.

Regards, Paul, '63 230SL

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Paul,

You can get the rear electrical part of the ign. switch: A 000 462 0693.

You still have to pull the ign switch complete to change it, which means having the instruments out.
Good winter project to change all the bulbs and clean and polish instrument glass etc. at the same time

[paults1]

Naj, Thanks for the part number. I know the procedure for the removal.  Any others out there too comment?
Paul

[tonyfern75]

I just went through the ignition lock nightmare myself.  If the ignition won't kick in at the start (full turn and hold against spring- past 2) position, it's probably because its not being held tight enough by the three screws that fasten the ignition switch to the lock assembly.  I fixed this by taking three plastic tie straps and wrapping them in a crisscross pattern (between the wires and posts on the ignition switch) around the lock assembly. tighten the plastic tie straps as much ass possible with needle nose plyers. The object is to tightly fasten the ignition switch to the lock assembly. When the screws get old and especially when you remove the ignition switch from the assembly the screws will no longer hold the ignition switch fast to the lock assembly and this will prevent starting.  The technical manual in this website says to use glue. I say use tie straps. To me, they are more secure and easier to install.  Took care of my problem and hasn't come back. Make sure you don't use anything except for PLASTIC tie straps to prevent the possibility of shorting the wires on the ignition switch. Only saying this because someone might do something nuts like try and use a large hose clamp or something : )

Good luck.

[tonyfern75]

This was my email to Thomas Hanson at the Irvine center who is always very helpful with all my questions.  Not saying this is easy or foolproof, but so far my ignition lock and ignition system have been working flawlessly.  Someone at Bud's Benz in Atlanta (search Google) quoted me $750 for a functional used assembly...if you'd rather not hassle with trying the option below:

Just as a heads up. I was able to drill out the side pins and carefully tap out the tumbler (while assembly was held in a vice) by using a hex socket to go over the the protruding piece that turns the ignition switch.  I then took the tumbler to a local locksmith who was able to repair the pins in the tumbler and cut me new key. Put back together and in the car and so far have full functionality (steering lock now works as well. I didn't bother screwing or hammering pins back into place (on the chrome bezel) because I wanted to be able to pull the tumbler from the outside should this happen again.  However if someone is concerned with having it exactly how it was they could easily insert two small allen head screws (like the type they use to keep the handles of bathroom fixtures attached to the shafts) on through both sides of the chrome bezel to make it impossible to remove from outside the dash.  The locksmith charged me 70 dollars to redo the tumbler.  Just saying that what they are charging in Germany to do this seems a bit on the high side given that once I got the unit out of the dash breaking it down and putting it back together took 30 minutes max.

Thanks for your phone consultation and prompt email responses.

Sincerely,

Tony

P.S.: I will let you know if my fix fails, in which case  I guess I'll wish I'd sent it to Germany.

[tonyfern75]

The price to have it rebuild in Germany is $1300 plus and 6 weeks turnaround minimum . So i think a shot at the options above makes a lot of sense

[tonyfern75]

My apologies as (after closer reading )  it appears that there is no problem with your lock  tumbler. Hope the post on lock assembly repair is useful to some other poor soul who faces the dreaded 230 SL Neiman 120 lock tumbler failure.

[paults1]

Thanks Tony,  I assume you had to remove the entire assembly to install the plastic ties?  Your fix might work for me due to the fact that when I jiggled the assembly the car would start.

Regards, Paul

[tonyfern75]

Didn't have to remove the assembly to put in the ties. This can be done carefully while it's in place through the speedometer hole. Use needle nose to pull them tight after you have criss-crossed them around the ignition switch and the steering lock shaft of the assembly.  there is room for the ties between the wires and terminals running into the ignition switch.

regards,
Tony