Author Topic: WRD one more time  (Read 3255 times)

ptooner

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WRD one more time
« on: February 03, 2011, 23:56:36 »
My 65 230SL runs great after the first start of the day.  From cold it has to be restarted usually 3 times before it will stay lit.  It will idle very low (less than 500) for a minute or two and then once it gets warmed up a bit it drives great with the idle about 600.  It also starts immediately when it's warmed up.  I have checked everything except the WRD and I am currently convinced that it is stuck.  I have been very hesitant to mess with the mechanical injection but it appears I have no more choices.  My question is, do I have to drain the coolant before trying to remove the WRD?  Can I just loosen the hold down screws and pull it off with the hoses connected?  Anything else to look out for before I tackle it this weekend?
Thanks for all your help
Gerry

jeffc280sl

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Re: WRD one more time
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2011, 02:01:08 »
Gerry,

It's a straight forward job.  I would disconnect and plug the hoses.  You may lose a little coolant an the process.  The screws holding the WRD may be difficult to break loose.  Use some liquid wrench and a flat screw driver and wratchet. 

dseretakis

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Re: WRD one more time
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2011, 14:27:39 »
Keep in mind that if you end up replacing the thermostat in the WRD, you may have issues with it seating properly. I had to re-machine the seat on to which it sits. This was for a 71 280SL. Things may be different for your car.

Iconic

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Re: WRD one more time
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2011, 17:38:48 »
In my opinion, try to work hard with the original parts before you start replacing them. That certainly depends on your personal preference. I find it more rewarding to use the original parts. Of course it takes less modifying and less money too !!
I ended up taking mine apart 3 times before I got it to slide in the right manner.
I had never even seen one before I took mine apart the first time, so I'm sure it can be done correctly the first time by many members.
It is a simple job to remove.
I used fine grit sand paper (carefully) on the bore and the piston. I don't remember the grit (1200? 600?).
I put the temperature sensing device in hot water and took measurements of the pin before and after to verify the function. It all worked as per spec.
BUT, before you start, why not use a hose as a stethoscope to see if you can hear the air rushing when cold and then decreasing sound and eventual stopping when engine warms. If you are concerned you can't tell the difference in sound, like me, you can remove the filter and periodically feel for vacuum with your hand. Please take all the usual precautions when dealing with running machinery.


1970 280 SL Automatic, USA version, Grey-Blue (906G/906G), Blue leather (245)
1968 SS396 Camaro Convertible (owned since 1977 -- my first car :D)
1984 Porsche Euro Carrera coupe, LSD, SlateBlueMet/Blue
1998 BMW M-Rdstr Estoril Blue
1970 280 SL Automatic, Anthracite Grey-173G, Red Interior-132 - sold