Author Topic: need help with trunk weatherstrip (Read 17380 times)

rmmchl · « **on:** April 10, 2011, 19:38:19 »

I'm putting my car back together after my re-paint. This is the second time in 30 years, and I have the same problem. The new weatherstrip seems impossible to put on correctly around the hinges. I remember the orignal one that was on it when I got the car in 1985. It was soft and was not as firm as the new ones. My mercedes body shop doesn't even know how to do it. Last time I left it off for 10 years, until my body shop put it on. It never was on correct. You could see part of it on the backside when the lid was close. How in the heck is this thing supposed to fit around the hinges, and how do you glue that without pulling out of place while the adhesive is setting. Please help if anyone has pictures or descriptions. I know one thing. All of the trunk weatherstrips that are being sold, including from mercedes, are not like the originals.

badali · « **Reply #1 on:** April 10, 2011, 20:24:42 »

The 2 sharp corners go at the base by the tail lights. The seal has a semi squared off bottom and the U shaped channel goes up. Hear are pictures. If you put it in place you can glue it a little at a time. Put contact cement on the seal and the channel in small sections and work your way around. You can use tape to hold it from falling out as you go. It will take a while to do.

rmmchl · « **Reply #2 on:** April 10, 2011, 21:49:31 »

thanks for the pictures-i think I was trying to put it on upside down

rmmchl · « **Reply #3 on:** April 10, 2011, 22:08:44 »

I'm really confused now-Mine is not shaped like yours---Where did you purchase yours??--------I hope some others post pictures also. Also, everyone is talking about how you must coat bothsides------------------There is no way!-3m weather strip adhesive is very messing. You would have to get 10 people to hold the rubber piece you were trying to glue. There is no way to glue the rubber piece also. It's hard enough to keep glue in the channel.

66andBlue · « **Reply #4 on:** April 10, 2011, 23:21:23 »

Brad's photos show the correct orientation of the gasket, as it should be. The upper lip should follow the contour of the lid.
Installation is actually quite simple, just do it as shown in the video, apply only a thin film (do NOT fill the channel!), and don't forget to clean up right away with 3-M glue remover.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGXDo7eLiqs

mbzse · « **Reply #5 on:** April 10, 2011, 23:24:46 »

Quote from: rmmchl

i think I was trying to put it on upside down

Here is a sketch I have drawn showing the position of the rubber in the channel
Most of the adhesive should be applied where red arrow points
/Hans in Sweden

.

badali · « **Reply #6 on:** April 10, 2011, 23:54:09 »

If you buy direct from the classic center it will give you the best fit. There are after market ones on eBay and other places that may work but cannot be guaranteed to fit right for half the price.

rmmchl · « **Reply #7 on:** April 11, 2011, 01:29:50 »

THANK YOU BADALI-------------iIM GOING TO CALL TOM HANSON AND ORDER ONE FROM THE CLASSIC CENTER-MINE IS AN AFTERMARKET BY A COMPANY CALLED E:URO- I'M GOING TO TRY TO RETURN IT WHERE I BOUGHT IT-THANKS GUYS-IT STILL LOOKS HARD TO INSTALL THOUGH-IT WILL HELP WITH AN ORIGINAL ONE

J. Huber · « **Reply #8 on:** April 11, 2011, 01:49:10 »

Is it impossible to pull an old one out and re-glue it? Or will the glue cause it to rip? Why do I ask? well...

Mine too is in slightly wrong I think. Its works to keep water out but it is visible on one side and causes lid to sit up a tad. Its not worn out at all -- I replaced it when I had car painted (yes 13 years ago but its rarely seen water. And sadly, I paid the mechanic to put it in because I didn't quite get it. He didn't either I guess.

badali · « **Reply #9 on:** April 11, 2011, 01:59:47 »

I have pulled a few used ones out and the glue pealed off. It looked reusable but for the trouble it may be best to just put in a new one.

Larry & Norma · « **Reply #10 on:** April 11, 2011, 07:52:06 »

I think part of the problem is fitting it without stretching and ending up with a bad fit.
'Cold' fit the seal (no glue) when in the correct position using masking tape etc mark several
positions around the seal and body so that, when assembled with glue, they line up as before.
I did this on both door seals which came out well.

rmmchl · « **Reply #11 on:** April 11, 2011, 21:10:17 »

good idea gnuface-thank you-i ordered the original one from tom hanson at classic merc today

JamesL · « **Reply #12 on:** April 13, 2011, 12:51:17 »

I gave mine a bit of a wash last night and noticed that my seal is lifting/has come unglued at one of the corners (by the hinge). The seal between the body (not the lid) and the rubber is effectively lost and there's water getting under the seal which can only be a bad thing - indeed may already have been...

All suggestions greatly appreciated but at this point I am half inclined to pull the one I have, de-glue the channel and put some POR15 or similar inside it before gluing a new one in. Shame as the rest of my rubber is in decent condition

I also noticed that the paint on my car doesn't match up - there's a slight difference in the finish on the door/cowl area and the rest of the front wing/fender on the drivers side. Serves me right for getting the rags out!

J. Huber · « **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2011, 15:23:10 »

I decided to pull my old one off (it was not in correctly -- see above). Good news is it was not tacked in that great and came right up. It was still in good shape, so I cleaned up the channels a bit and re-glued it with 3M, taping a few areas as I went along. With the knowledge of how its supposed to fit (Hans' drawing helped a lot), it was very easy.

The only catch is, my trunk wouldn't shut! Obviously the rubber needs to conform a bit (like Badali's) -- and create a C instead of a U. I got a little physical and it shut. After a while tried it again -- a little easier. So time will help I think.

Second issue -- my right side trunk edge still sits a bit higher than the fender, probably from years of sitting up on the rubber. Anyone know how to adjust that?

badali · « **Reply #14 on:** April 13, 2011, 21:08:50 »

My trunk lid is really tight with the new seal also. It has been over a year but it is getting better. Not sure how to adjust the lid...

Jonny B · « **Reply #15 on:** April 14, 2011, 21:26:12 »

I believe there are some washers/spacers under the trunk latch mechanism, the part bolted to the trunk lid itself.

J. Huber · « **Reply #16 on:** April 15, 2011, 01:19:09 »

As I think about it, I bet mine is sitting high because its hitting the newly-placed rubber. So I will see if it settles down after a while.

66andBlue · « **Reply #17 on:** April 15, 2011, 03:41:41 »

Hi James,
better think about it again!

Previously you wrote "my right side trunk edge still sits a bit higher than the fender".
Are you telling us now that the rubber on one side is higher then the other side?

If that is the case then I would go back and re-install the gasket to be even all around.
If however, the lid is indeed sitting higher only on one side then check whether this is also true when it is almost closed, i.e., when pushed down and leaning on the gasket. Is there a difference when you measure distances on both sides?
If that is the case then either the lid is distorted (I hope not) or the hinges on both sides are misaligned.
Keep up us updated!

J. Huber · « **Reply #18 on:** April 15, 2011, 04:34:31 »

I see what you're saying Alfred and I'll do some examining tomorrow. However, I believe I have the seal fairly equally placed in the groove... but it could be that the seal is more compressed or pliable already on the left side -- and less so on the right -- seeing as how I had the seal very unevenly placed before this thread... make sense?

That's what you get for telling me to think again! I'll take some pictures and measurements and report back.

Ulf · « **Reply #19 on:** April 15, 2011, 08:08:13 »

One thing that I learned the hard way when doing my weatherstrip on the soft top compartment is that you'll need to let the glue dry for a minute or two before pressing the seal into the channel, otherwise it will slither around and become really messy - I'll have to redo the whole thing because of that...

J. Huber · « **Reply #20 on:** April 15, 2011, 17:25:23 »

Thanks Ulf. Mine may have slipped around a bit too but settled ok.

Well, on closer look, my rubber is fairly consistent all the way around. I used as a guide Badali's reveal on the fender side of the channel -- I aimed for about a 1/4 inch all the way around (pic 2). This is where the seal seamed to settle as it was square to the channel. The rubber reveal is a little wavy on the right side but not dramatic. The back rubber along rear edge hits the lid first and lifts it though. That seems to be the biggest problem.

The right side of the lid is hitting some rubber obviously but it may have a slight bow all its own (pic 3). I think if I can get the back rubber to smush I'll be ok. Can anyone think of a way to make it more pliable to compress?

Larry & Norma · « **Reply #21 on:** April 23, 2011, 07:48:21 »

Anyone in the UK know where to get the 3M Super Weather Strip adhesive?
Or maybe from Europe?
Larry

ja17 · « **Reply #22 on:** April 25, 2011, 12:16:40 »

Hello,

The secret to success is using the correct glue. I have used both the 3M weatherstrip adhesive and the Mercedes Brand weatherstrip adhesive. Both look the same and work well. They are both black in color and will look right after gluing. As with most contact cements both parts must be thoroughly cleaned before a coating is put onto both sides, then left to dry for the recommended time interval. It is important to clean the rubber also since the new rubber molding may have "mold release" compound on the gasket from the manufacturing process. Glue will not stick to it if so! I use plain old rubbing alcohol to remove oil and waxes from channels and rubber. Make sure that cleaning agents are gone before beginning.
Get some thin latex or gloves so you can use your finger to spread the glue on the rubber gasket. You will want to spread it on the all three glue sides of the gasket and channel so it really conforms to the groove. Don't try to work the whole gasket at once, do a section at a time. Yes, as advised, make sure the gasket is fitted first and in place as you are working on it so you do not stretch it and end up with too much gasket at the end of the job. I like to work on a section between two corners, gluing each corner in first, then the center of the run, then the rest. In this way the length of rubber is not stretched and always comes out correctly. It is not a 10 minute job. Most likely an hour or hour and a half. Have some solvent on hand which will not harm your paint for clean up. A nice plastic trim tool can help fit rubber. It takes a little practice to get the hang of it but things will start falling in place as you get going. Once in place and installed correctly it is watertight and stays in place.

Your local MB dealer can supply you with the MB Brand weatherstrip adhesive. The 3M Brand works as well (maybe the same) and is most likely a bit cheaper if you can find it.

News:

Author Topic: need help with trunk weatherstrip (Read 17380 times)