Warm starting

[reggie]

My 1970-280SL, Starts great when cold, When i go for a drive, which is quite a lot recently, And leave it 30 minutes, it take a lot of turning over before if fires up, leave it 5 minutes it starts right up -  , I have read through the tech manual, nothing jumps out at me, Other than that, Its been great driving about in it,  Help.

[thelews]

I have a similar situation.  Try different ways, no throttle, half throttle, full throttle when cranking.  I can't remember which works best for me.

[ja17]

Hello reggie,

Check the basic first.  The main fuel filter should be clean. The ignition points (dwell) should also be checked.

Next you should check your basic starting aids with a12 volt  test light or a meter. During hot starts the fuel enrichment solenoid (Starting Solenoid) on the injection pump should activate anytime the starter is engaged. Let us know what you find.

[Ulf]

Mine has a somewhat similar issue - it fires up instantly when warm, but dies out immediately without a blip of the throttle, it mostly only fires up on 5 cylinders when warm and the 6th usually joins the party within 10-15 seconds...

[reggie]

Thanks Joe.
Checked all the basic's before i asked, Just tried with the test lamp, nothing there, Its a black wire with a red tracer, looked in the fuse box, No 7 it says, fuse ok, same one for the heater blower, which works ok, checked the fuse behind brake booster, LHD, thats ok, differant coloured wire though, Are there anymore fuses to look at. 
Thank you.
Reg

[wwheeler]

Reggie,

I am dealing with a similar issue except I am getting TOO MUCH fuel when starting. Cold starting is great, but warm starting can be embarrassing. With the starting solenoid wire connected, I get too much fuel and the engine stalls immediately after firing. I have to press the throttle after it fires to keep it alive. With the solenoid wire disconnected, it fires up after a one or two seconds and NO pedal action required. 

Being an engineer, I can't stand to leave the wire disconnected. I am slowly shortening the length of the solenoid rod until I hit that happy median. It has taken a lot of on and offs with the solenoid, but it is getting better. It might be some other hidden problem, but I can't find it.

I think a lot of people have warm starting problems with these cars and each person has their own way of dealing with it. Keep after it!

[ja17]

Hello Reggie, 

Your relay is most likely not working if you are not getting anything to the solenoid.  Not sure which one is the culprit on your car. Pull the plug off the bottom of a relay. You will see numbers  cast in the plug next to each hole. #87 is the out going power. Just touch a jumper wire to the #87 and see what device activates. When you get to the relay which operates the injection pump solenoid, remove the cover and clean the points inside. Before you put the cover back on, try starting the car and check to see if the IP solenoid is now  working when the starter is engaged.

[reggie]

Thanks, Joe & Wallace, I will keep you informed, 
Reg

[reggie]

Well, I have come to the conclusion i dont have a starting device,  My car must be the later type, it has all the emissions gear still on, So what i have been testing, is a fuel shut off valve,  , The one on the intake manifold is working fine, Must be pilot error, Or is there something else that may help warm starting, 

Reg