Removal of leaking radiator

[Theo]

My 230SL radiator sprung a leak, needs to be replaced or re-cored.  The car has no air conditioning.

What is the best method of removing the radiator, in a previous string it was said its easier to jack up the car and remove it from underneath, Is that indeed the best way?

Somewhere else it says to remove the hood (!) and remove the radiator from above.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Theo
1966 230SL

[Larry & Norma]

It's easier, in my opinion, to remove the hood. Best as a two man job, cover edges to prevent paint chipping
and mark hinges to aid replacement. Might be a good time to replace belts also.

[DavidBrough]

I agree with Larry, it's much easier from the top.

I think the notion of removing the rad from underneath comes from a reluctance to remove the bonnet which isn't actually that difficult once you've plucked up the courage and done it a couple of times. When you have, you'll see that many other engine jobs are made significantly easier.

[69280sl]

If all you are doing is removing and replaceing the radiator, out the bottom saves time and hence money if you are paying someone else to do it.

Gus

[jameshoward]

I've only ever removed from the bottom. With access to a pit it's a really easy job. I suppose you could jack the front of the car to achieve a similar effect, but it may be easier to remove the bonnet.

Whilst you have the radiator out it may be worth replacing the water pump at the same time if that hasn't been done before. It's a very easy job and there's a lot of info on the site. Not a paritularly expensive part either. 

[Iconic]

I was recently faced with the same dilemma. So recent, that I haven't put my hood/bonnet back on yet. 
You will see that the posts are clearly divided between taking it out the top and the bottom.
I trusted those that stated it was not that hard to put the hood/bonnet back on. It certainly came off easy with 2 people and taped edges everywhere.
If you are interested in EASY access to the front of the motor for any reason, including cleaning, you have your answer.
That is what made the decision for me.

[gugel]

What is the best method of removing the radiator, in a previous string it was said its easier to jack up the car and remove it from underneath, Is that indeed the best way?

IMO, yes.  It's not at all hard to do, and takes only one person.  I admit that removing and reinstalling the hood scares me, and I certainly wouldn't want to do it alone.

[66andBlue]

I agree. With the smaller 230SL radiator and no A/C the way to go is out the bottom.

[ja17]

I tend to be on the side of the "hood removal group" and having done this many times, it is quick and easy for me.It makes any other work on the engine so much easier.  Paint damage is not likel, if precautions are taken and two people are involved. The job can become a nightmare if the nut plate in the hood breaks loose, or if it has been previously rigged. Always wire brush the hood bolt threads, and clean the nut plate threads with a tap if possible before re-installation. Also coat the threads with some anti-seize compound.

I can see removing the radiator out the bottom on non-AC 230SLs if only radiator work is required and to avoid hood removal.

One last caution, find a good safe place to store the hood if it is taken off. A sudden gust of wind can tip a stored loose hood over and ruing your day!

[W113SL]

I recently had a stone jump up and damage my radiator.  I had to get it done quickly with a minimum of tools as I was not at home when I discovered the problem.

I have a 250SL with a fan shroud, but without air conditioning.  Solution:  Jack the car up and remove from the underside.  I my opinion, it is just as quick and without anyone to help with the hood, makes it a no brainer.

Pete Lesler
1967 250SL
Owned since September 1971

[Theo]

Thanks for everyone's helpful responses to my post above. My belts, water pump were changed by the previous owner, I need only get the rad out quickly so I'm with Peter, etc, I prefer to just drop it out the bottom.

One question though for Peter or whoever can answer: how high does the car need to be jacked up to drop it down easily? Will just a few inches off the ground allow sufficient clearance? I have home jackstands, no easy access to a pit or lift.

[W113SL]

 I can't remember how high I had to raise the car because I was not at home when the stone hit my radiator and was without my normal array of jack stands etc.  It really wasn't that high, perhaps no more than twelve additional inches or for those metric folks about 300 centimeters.

It came right out with no fuss.

BTW:  That's also the slickest way to remove or install an engine together with the transmission;  In and out the bottom.  However, you really need to get it much higher in this case.

Good luck,

Peter Lesler
1967 250SL

[scoot]

I don't want to take my hood off (just painted) and I think that the water pump is going to need to be replaced.  The car has AC.  Will a radiator on a car with AC not go out the bottom?

[W113SL]

 I would think so  I think it should work  It's worth a try. 

Pete Lesler
1967 250SL

[JamesL]

perhaps no more than twelve additional inches or for those metric folks about 300 centimeters.

That's metric ^10 (30cm = 300mm = 12" (ish))

[Theo]

I removed the radiator from the bottom, it was easy. Only 6 bolts to remove, 3 on each side of the rad. Plus remove the battery (to access the 3 bolts on the left side of the rad). On the right side if you use a flat wrench you do not need to remove the air cleaner housing, just loosen it and you can get to the bolts.

Here’s the steps in order:

1.   Remove the battery
2.   Remove the two bolts holding the air cleaner housing, so it can move slightly.
3.   Jack up the car just til the bottom of the front tires is 5 inches off the ground (put jackstands).
4.   Loosen lower rad hose clamp at the rad & pull it off the rad; coolant flows out.
5.   Undo the other hoses as well at the rad only & also the auto transmission fluid pipes.
6.   Remove the 3 bolts on each side of the rad, and it just slips right out from under.

Time taken: 20 minutes, no glitches, no surprises.  (though lots of prior study & questioning on this site, I must say!)

Remember this is 230SL (automatic) no air conditioning.

Theo
66 230SL Euro

[J. Huber]

Excellent Theo. Those are my kind of instructions. filed for future reference. Good luck with the re-core and repair.

[JamesL]

I always find that getting this out or apart is far far easier than putting them all back again. I know "refitting is the reverse of removal" should work but

[jaymanek]

Guys,

I have to remove my radiator too. No power steering, manual and no air con... wahey!

But I have two oil hoses on the left side, I take it these have to be disconnected too? Engine Oil Cooler?

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Jay,

Yes, oil cooler hoses.

There's about 1/2 a litre of oil in there.

Naj

[ctaylor738]

I just did the radiator and water pump on a late 230SL with declutching fan and shroud.  I jacked the car up and used 12" ramps to support the front wheels.  I found that access to the water pump was quite good from under the car.  I was able to get the right side bottom screw out w/o removing the air cleaner housing, but removed it to get it back in - maybe an extra 15 minutes.

There isn't much that can go wrong with this method and IMO removing the hood just invites complications especially if you don't know the state of the hinges and attaching screws.