123Ignition Mercedes 6-R-V Install Consensus?

[WillS]

I've had a long look at the archives here and am hoping that there has emerged a consensus on the following questions about a 123Ignition Mercedes distributor install. I purchased a 123Ignition Mercedes 6-R-V distributor for my 1971 USA version 4sp Mercedes 280SL that has a 062 distributor, separate distributor pinch clamp, and Silver transistorized ignition coil of 1.4 ohms primary circuit resistance. To the 230/250/280SL folks here who have been running one for a while, I'd most appreciate any input you have.

1) Do I need to install a standard size Mercedes distributor drive shaft dog spring, or one approx. twice as long (from a hardware store, per other chat threads), or no spring, in the 123 distributor drive shaft dog coupling? What is the right (or no) spring?
1a) Has anyone pulled their Mercedes 6-R-V distributor after a few thousand miles and checked for abnormal drive dog wear, no matter what kind of (or no) drive dog spring has been installed?

2) Does just flipping over the distributor pinch clamp solve the interference 'problem' (causes lack of full drive dog engagement?) with the 123 Mercedes 6-R-V distributor install? Or do I need to have the bottom of the housing of my 123 machined down a bit? If so, who has done this machining operation many times, knows what they are doing? I have a .jpg picture of the modification (came across it in website research), don't know how to do attachments yet. I've also read no modifications at all are needed. Consensus on this yet?
2a) Has anyone pulled their Mercedes 6-R-V distributor after a few thousand miles and checked for abnormal drive dog wear, whether their clamp is upside down or not, whether the distributor body has been machined or not?

3) My 280SL factory Silver (not Red, not Blue) transistorized ignition coil with 1.4 ohm primary circuit resistance is pretty close to the 1 ohm limit, has anyone been running their 123 Mercedes 6-R-V for a long time using the factory USA version 280SL 1.4 ohm Silver ignition coil? If the Silver coil isn't a good idea to use, who in the USA sells the correct 'real' Bosch Blue or Red ignition coil? One thing I found out in my research is there are a lot of cheaply made look-alike Bosch Blue coils out there.

My apologies for the long questions, I'm hoping there is some consensus on these issues now before I dive into the 123 install on my car.

[Michael C]

I have installed a 123distributor.  So far, all is well.  No spring was added, however I did have to flip the clamp.  Right now I'm running a Bosch red (sticker) coil.  One thing I did have to do is that I could not find any non-resistor plugs in the day of install, so Im running non sesistor plug wire ends with resistor plugs.  (It works fine for now). 

I also have a 70 280SEL with the stock 062 distributor and Pertronix set up.  From what I can tell, it runs just as well.  (I've swapped them a few times just to check it out). 

Note, when using your 123 on the 70-71 cars, your emissions equipment should all be working correctly first.

Michael C

[Iconic]

I read in a recent Star MBCA magazine that the replacement for the blue coil is a silver coil with a "Transistor" sticker on it. Or something close to that.
Beyond that, I don't know much about this subject since I am running a stock ignition and it runs great.

[Michael C]

When installing the 123distributor, the old transistor sistem is either removed or bypassed.  You can also remove the ballast resistor and go direct from switched ignition power to the unit itself.

MC

[WillS]

Note, when using your 123 on the 70-71 cars, your emissions equipment should all be working correctly first.
Michael C

Thanks for the info. I was wondering why all the emissions equipment should be working correctly first? By hooking up the 123 directly to the coil and choosing the 123 advance/retard curve you like best, there is no need for any of the pollution folderol?