Author Topic: Replacing front crankshaft oil seal  (Read 22295 times)

ja17

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  • USA, OH, Blacklick
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Re: Replacing front crankshaft oil seal
« Reply #25 on: April 04, 2012, 22:01:34 »
Paul, it all depends on the use and the condition of the engine. Figure that the same engine configuration is used in Canada without AC and in Florida with AC. I suspect MB designed for "worst use conditions" (Florida summer traffic with AC on).

Here is another interesting fact. The carbureted MB 250C engine ( w114 Chassis M130 engine) for the USA never used a oil cooler. The same engine in a  250/8 sedan  (W114 chassis, M130 engine) for the USA, always came with an oil cooler. Does not make sense.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2012, 22:59:40 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Paul Robinson

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Re: Replacing front crankshaft oil seal
« Reply #26 on: April 15, 2012, 13:32:55 »
Thank you.  I've still got a lot to learn about these cars.

Yesterday I got my front seal replaced.  The PVC puller as described earlier in the thread worked great on the spacer ring.
Below are pictures of another PVC aid.  It is a drain-waste-vent clean out fitting.  The small end fits on to a 2.5 inch PVC pipe.  The large end accepts the threaded plug.  The large end also happens to be the exact diameter as the main seal so it makes a great mandrel for tapping the main seal home.  
Costs a big whopping 98 cents from Home Depot.
« Last Edit: April 15, 2012, 13:41:43 by Paul Robinson »