Author Topic: Fitting the idler arm  (Read 2978 times)

georgem

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Fitting the idler arm
« on: April 10, 2012, 20:38:05 »

I have to reassemble the idler arm back into its housing - all ok except for the final fitting of the large bronze nut on top. Its double threaded, screwing into/onto the shaft and the housing at the same time.
Is there a trick to getting this started so it becomes tight on both threads at the same time?  How tight should it be?

Cheers

George
George McDonald
Brisbane
230 Sl
1973 VW Kombi Single Cab Ute
2022 Volvo XC 40 Pure (100% electric)

twistedtree

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Re: Fitting the idler arm
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2012, 20:58:42 »
As I understand it, hold the arm up in place with it pointed forward, and screw the top cap down until it's tight against the bracket mounted to the car body.  It's a bit tricky because you are fighting against a spring.  Then confirm that the arm swings fully in both directions.  As it swings, it's screwing in and out a little bit, but that's by design.  You just need to be sure it doesn't bind at either extreme of it's swing.  Also check for play.  Oh, and grease it up real well before hand.

By the way, this only applies to 230's.  The later cars have a different setup.
Peter Hayden
1964 MB 230SL
1970 MB 280SL
2011 BMW 550xi

georgem

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Re: Fitting the idler arm
« Reply #2 on: April 11, 2012, 20:54:06 »

Thanks Peter - I`ll give it a go

George
George McDonald
Brisbane
230 Sl
1973 VW Kombi Single Cab Ute
2022 Volvo XC 40 Pure (100% electric)

ctaylor738

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Re: Fitting the idler arm
« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2012, 18:01:28 »
Look for Dr. Dan's reply about halfway down this thread.  It was very helpful to me.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=3747.0

Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA