Seat Covers

[rwmastel]

Well, I can't afford a new interior right now and I'm tired of looking at my seats that are literally coming apart at the seams.  I've gone to two good upholstery shops and they both say it would cost too much in labor to make it worth trying to fix them.  I might as well spend that labor money on installing new material.  Also, the fix might not last long because of the hardness of the original leather.  Finally, the fix might not even fit well because they'll have to take up a little extra material to sew the panels together so this might make it fit too tight on the seat frame.

So, what are my options regarding seat covers?  I've seen several Mercedes-Benz cars (on-line) with lamb skin seat covers.  These are a very thick and soft wool that is supposedly warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  Is this the best option?  What are my other options?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[ted280sl]

Rodd,
  New seat covers can easily be installed without going to an upholstery shop. The seat covers in leather are probably about $800. The seat pads bottoms will probably need to be replaced and possibly the backs. The seat pads are probably up to $100 each now. This means the entire job can run between $800 and $1200 dollars. I patched a seat cover and even though I used the proper material the patched section is not sun faded so it looks different. This probably is not what you wanted to hear but, nobody told you that driving a 113 was cheap.
Ted 1969 280SL
This year new carpets, next year the seat covers

[George Davis]

Rodd,

I've never found sheep skins to be cool in summer, quite the opposite.  Another option is to visit your local generic car parts stores, like Pep Boys, Autozone, etc., and check out their fabric seat covers.  They are probably available in various patterns/colors, and not too expensive.  Usually there are types for seats with or without headrests.  They probably have sheep skins, too, but if you opt for sheep, it's probably better to get the real thing, not the fake stuff.  An internet search for seat covers might turn up something, too.  Good luck!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[rwmastel]

Ted,

Thanks for the info.  I was led to believe that it is difficult to fit the new leather seat covers and not have them wrinkle or crease.  I have never done anything like this, so I am very hesitant to spend that kind of money on something and then mess it up because of my inexperience.  Can a true novice do it?  I will go back and search on old threads about replacing the seat leather.

Also, you mentioned the patch job you did and how you ended up with part of your seat sun faded and part of it new, which looked bad.  I would expect that this would happen with an all-leather interior.  I could have nice new seats, but the leather on the dash, doors, windshield frame, and soft top cover would look out of place.  I would think that would look really obvious.  My leather code is 219, which is not in anyone's GAHH book, so it would be a custom order color.  Depending on the quality of the match, that could make it look even worse against the original faded material.

So, assuming that I do not order new leather seats, what are my options with after market covers?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Douglas]

Rodd,

I'd start by gluing leather to the backside of some of the areas where there are holes. Glue it suede-to-suede and use contact cement. That will at least keep the tears from getting worse.

And by the way, it IS possible to revive cardboard-like leather. Two products designed to do this are Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and something along the same lines by Griot's Garage. Apply it on a hot day and you should be able to get it to soften up.

Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220

[k]

The famous seat covers you keep seeing are Hurrs austrailian natural lamb sheepskin shearling covers.  They were advertised in STAR magazine from MBCA in the 90s and made one model the low-back sports model which fits the sl seat like a glove - no kidding- zero wrinkles, covers top shpulder with seatback exposed..  Most get the honey (classic light yellow) or natural/beige to match tan/lighter interiors.

They used to cost about $75-100 each; the best distributor was in Durango Co [Sport & GT Motoring]; I can search for the phone # if needed.

I got these 14 years ago and send them to the dry cleaners every few years; comeback like new.  Hide/fur is like 1.5 in. thick.

[rwmastel]

George,
I'm glad to hear you didn't agree with what I heard about the coolness factor in the summer.  It will be interesting to hear what other people report.  I'll check out the local stores and I'll do an on-line search.

Doug,
I know about Leatherique.  I used it once last summer and it did a good job at cleaning and somewhat of a good job at softening the leather, but it was not very hot when I did it and I only left it on for the afternoon.  I need to leave it on in very high temps (85+) for a couple days.  I only have one tear, and it's a hole with missing material.  The rest is where the stitching is gone between panels and on the piping.  I'll supply pictures at some point.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[jmbour]

Rodd,

I have a couple of lamb sheepskins for sale.
They are dark blue, and seem to come from Germany.
The first owner of my 1971 280 SL bought them to cover the seats. He also had brand new original seat covers in Germany that he gave me when I bought the car 6 years ago. I had the new covers put on the car and I took of the sheepskins, cleaned them ans stored them.
Now I have to move and  will consider selling them.
They seem to be in good shape, apart from a small tear on a side, which could be easyly fixed and is not noticeable.
See picture
J.M. Bour
1971 280 SL
Washington DC

Download Attachment: Dscf54.jpg
69.2 KBe

[France]

Rodd,

I tried sheepskin (expensive NZ stuff) in one of my old 635s.  I lived in the SF Bay Area, where summers range from high 50s in SF to 90 in Alamo.  I found the sheepskin miserable when the temp went over 70 and finally removed them from summer use...



Trice
1968 280SL US, signal/bl leather, auto

[ted280sl]

Rodd,
  The seat covers are really easy to install and yes a novice can do it. If your seat color is truly rare and will require a custom dye, then I am sure you can have them dye the seat leather to match the rest of your interior.
Ted

[ted280sl]

Rodd,
  The seat covers are really easy to install and yes a novice can do it. If your seat color is truly rare and will require a custom dye, then I am sure you can have them dye the seat leather to match the rest of your interior.
Ted

[tuultyme]

I bought a set of new leather seat skins this past winter for $600.  I took everything apart writing down how I took it apart.  I saved all the old thin metal clips, staighten them if needed, and reused them when I put it back together slowly feeding them though like surgical needles using hemostats and needle nose pliers.  I just took my time putting the seats on as straight as possible.  The original clips were a lot easier to reuse then trying to use regular hog clips.  I did also replace the horse hair cusions for another $500 but they sure made a difference to the final project;  real firm and the leather stretched out real nice.  I was extra careful smoothing out the leather at the top of the seatbacks to be sure it laid flat before glueing it to the under side of the metal frame; This was the only place that I had to glue.  With care the carpeted seat backs do not have to be replaced at this time if they are not too bad.  The bolt that holds the seat top to the bottom has a locking nut on the inside so be sure to remove it first or you could break the bolt;$15.  I am real happy and proud of my job; cognac leather.

Bruce; 268Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL

[rwmastel]

Wow, what an active topic!  I have yet to search the forum for more detailed information on this topic, so that should help me out a lot.  I will try to reply to everyone's comments in one post:


K,
You say that you continue to clean and use your sheepskins regularly.  Can you comment on comfort in various driving conditions (cold of winter, heat of summer, rainy humid days with the top up, etc.)?


jmbour,
Thank you for the offer and the picture, but the blue would look very out of place in my car.  Perhaps an ad in our For Sale forum would produce a sale for you.


Trice,
Thanks for the feedback.  Two votes against sheepskins, one vote for.


Ted280sl,
If the genuine leather seat material is that easy to install, and I can't save the original, then maybe it's worth buying it and installing it myself.  I would hate to pay $70/hour for someone to do the work that I could do myself.  I don't mind doing slow detailed work, it allows my mind to wander!


Bruce,
That's a great success story.  Was that the first time you had ever done any upholstery work?  I'm an extreme novice.  I don't even know what the original clips and hog clips are that you mention.  I've never done anything like this, but we've got two people suggesting I could accomplish it.  I guess I better start searching this wonderful web site!


Thanks everyone - keep your comments & suggestions coming!

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[tuultyme]

Yes this was the first interior work that I have done if you do not count the pontiac tempest seats I put in my 57 chevy back in highschool.  I did have someone put the leather on the dash and window frame pieces before I put them back in.  But since the seats are "easily" removed they can be done in the comfrot of your living room and do any other interior work as money is available.

Bruce; 268Blaugrun(green) 1970 280SL; IL

[n/a]

I just redid my seats a few weeks ago. Some things I encountered:
1) I replaced all of the horsehair pads (cost about $500) but in retrospect the seatbacks and headrests could have been saved. I might suggest the budget concience replace only seat bottom pads, and the really tight budgets can maybe do driver's side bottom pad only.

2) One of my bottom springs was actually broken! I picked up a roadster seat from Potomac German ($25 for a really bad looking seat) and carefully transplanted a single spring leaf. Major pain but great improvement.

3) The hardest part of seat re-upholstery was the headrests! Those darn covers just dont want to stretch over the pads. Used a bit of soapy water to lubricate the pads, also warmed the covers to stretch better. It still took alot of elbow grease to fit the headrest pads in.

4) Be very careful about cutting holes for things like the side bolts, recliner wheel, headrests, etc. I screwed up in 2 places by cutting the holes according to "un-stretched" placement, and then when the covers were installed and stretched, the holes were slightly misaligned. I fixed this by gluing new material from below to close and cover the holes, and its nearly invisible once all chrom trim is installed.

5) Replacing the seat covers was quite easy. I got a nice hog-ring plier kit off ebay for $18.

6) Dont break the grey plastic clips which hold the chrome trim to each side of the seat. They are very britle and hard to replace.

So, aside from my spring repairs, it was basically an 8 hour project to install all new pads and seat upholstery.


Mike McMahon, Baltimore MD
1970 280SL 4-speed manual
olive green ext, bamboo int