This is not good - this week of all weeks

[jameshoward]

I have one I can bring if you like. Let me know and I'll put it in the trailer!

[JamesL]

Bring it on! Thank you - let's all point and laugh at my engine while we're away.

Must tell wife to book a facial while that's going on!

[Paul & Dolly]

Having only had my Pagoda a couple of months, I am not up to speed on these individual engines yet, but

worn valve guides and /or a blocked crankcase (or cam cover) breather could produce some of your symptons.

The results of  the compression test should be interesting.

Do you know how much oil the enging is  "using" ?

Be aware that worn rings can result in increased crankcase pressure ,
I would keep the revs down, especially on high speed roads,  to try and minimise the problems.

Good luck on the trip

Paul

[ja17]

Hello Tosh,

So #6 cylinder seems to be oiling up..........Is your Pagoda an automatic? Check to make sure that the diaphragm on the auto transmission modulator is not ruptured. when this happens, you will oil up #6 spark plug and will have blue smoke.

Diagnose this by checking your automatic transmission fluid level. 

[JamesL]

Joe - yes, an auto so will check my trans fluid. Thanks Paul - that'll be tough for me as it's against all instincts!

Man, I love this place

[JamesL]

Very interesting.... Just checked the transmision fluid and that too is low - again, below the minimum line on the dipstick. So I shall be off finding some of that before I leave. 

Tech Manual says I need REDLINE D4 SYNTHETIC ATF 1.4 ltr = 1.5 qts - anyone know if that's universal or different for manual v auto boxes?

So where is all this fluid going??

[Larry & Norma]

Are you checking the level as per Haynes manual, ie car warmed up and engine running in neutral or park?
I use ATF from Halfords which is fine.

[Naj ✝︎]

So where is all this fluid going??

Up in smoke 

[stickandrudderman]

Tosh, All.
Sorry not to have been around personally but I was having a little sojourn in Amsterdam.....
I haven't spoken to my guys yet so I don't know if they've changed the plugs for you and given you a spare set or if they've just given you a spare set and left you to your own devices.  If the latter then I would urge you to change and not clean the plug(s) and keep the old ones so I can inspect them. They are a very good indicator of the nature of the problem.
As for the failed diaphragm in the auto trans, I haven't come across it on a 113 in my 31 years of repairing Mercs, but I have seen it on other models and the result is huge plumes of almost white smoke, especially when accellerating. You will know if you have this problem!
Be advised that a compression test is not necessarily a good indicator of engine condition. A cylinder leak test is better but still not definitive. A vacuum test is by far the most reliable but only physical examination of the internals can actually determine the exact nature of any failure that may be present.
Stick.

[JamesL]

Thanks stick

I'm on my old plugs at the moment. Bryan packed me off with 6 new NGKs too (for which I owe you!). I shall make sure you see what I have but currently...

1-5 are "normal" and 6 is "oily"


(amazing this interweb!)

[rob walker]

James, hope it works out well for you and you have a great time.
We really are sad not to be making this one, but look forward to the next get together.

Have a great time all.

[ja17]

Hello James,

When the diaphragm fails in the transmission modulator, it actually breaks or cracks and allows transmission fluid to be sucked up the metal vacuum line going from the transmission to the intake manifold. Since the vacuum line connect to the manifold at the back, near the firewall, the #6 spark plug is the only one which fouls. Depending on how large the rupture is in the diaphragm will  determine how much transmission oil is consumed and how much smoke is blown out the exhaust.

Top off both fluids and watch the levels. The diaphragm can be changed with the transmission still in the car. Also if you remove the metal vacuum line where it attaches to the intake, you will most likely find some tranny fluid in the tube.   

[glenn]

Tosh, Do I detect a PPP  -  Poorly Pagoda Peregrination??    There's peregrination in Pagodaland??     

[Peter van Es]

If his Pagoda is so Poorly, it would be Perambulation in his case!

[Peter van Es]

Oh dear... I'll not make any more jokes... today, was in a rush to get everything prepared for tomorrow. Got fuel, thought I checked that the fuel-cap was on properly, drove off. When I got home 20km's later, no more original fuel cap. Retraced my steps. Couldn't find it, but most of the roads I drove were alongside water... have a stupid emergency plastic cap now.

Feel really stupid, dumb, and a lot of money poorer. Will retrace steps again later...

If anyone has a spare fuel cap and is turning up tomorrow in Belgium, you can probably sell it to me!

Peter

[mdsalemi]

no more original fuel cap.

So sorry...every time I read about this sad story (which seems to repeat itself far too often) I'm happy I have an ill-fitting rubber gasket on mine which forces you to really spend some time with it getting it back on...if mine went on easy I'd probably be in the same position as this many in the "lost gas cap" club.  This is a club I do NOT want to join!

[49er]

 I have read these sad stories as well certainly sympathize with those folks that have lost their gas/petrol caps. Mine still has the original cork seal and fits nice and snug and "clicks" into place. I always lock it after filling the tank and rotate the cap so that the star is at the top. Too bad there is not someway to fit a tether to these caps. Hope you find it Peter.

John

[Peter van Es]

Drove my route twice, once on my own, second time as a passenger. Not found the cap.

Peter

[tel76]

Probably too late its already on ebay

[ja17]

Sorry to hear about the fuel cap Peter,

Using a bit of grease or graphite on the tank side of the cork gasket keeps the cap working smooth and easy. I noticed that the new cork gaskets from Mercedes have graphite already on one side. The cap side should have some fuel resistant adhesive applied before the first installation.

[JamesL]

Finally, an update... It's taken a while for a variety of reasons. The mechanic has had a few days digging around the engine etc and we have found

• a leaky diaphragm in the vacuum tube from the transmission which has been replaced but we still have oil in #6 making it foul up
• low compression in all cylinders but 3 is the worst - nothing above 130 even when warm and as low as 90 when cold
• a knocking noise from somewhere deep-down in the engine that I first noticed when we were running on only 5

One option would be to run it and see if the oil in #6 dried up and burned off - it's certainly fouling less than before so we may have cured it that way (thanks Joe) but we also may not. The compression figures are not stellar and we are all a bit worried about the knocking noise SO

The engine is being pulled, broken open and put back together again

It may be overkill as I can clearly run on those compression numbers and the oil in the top of 6 may well burn off in time and clear. Or it may not. And as for the knocking... so rather than risk where we are now happening at the start of summer (or, August?), we made the call to pull it and see what we have while I in particular am in no hurry for it back!.

Thanks all for the input. I'll update as and when I know what we find...

[Neil Thompson]

Ouch James! Think you made the right call, at the moment it may be just knocking but if you ran it hoping it to go away you might end up with a hole in the side of your engine!

Neil