Author Topic: Dashboard wood  (Read 9523 times)

John C

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Dashboard wood
« on: February 28, 2006, 16:11:34 »
In the process of having my 280SL repainted, I inquired what it would cost to refurbish or redo my dashboard wood.  The wood is  complete, the original finish is not lifting but is just sort of dull.  I was quoted $3000.  Is this the norm?  Again, the car is a driver, not a show car, and I could easily live with the wood the way it is with an application of lemon oil on it. Any suggestions or recommendations?

jeffc280sl

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2006, 16:20:02 »
$3K sounds crazy.  The biggest challenge it removing it.  Lot of advice on this site for how to do that.  Is your windshield out?  That makes taking out the piece on the drivers side that much easier.  As far as refinishing goes I would use fine sand paper or steel wool to take off any clear coating and smooth the surface.  Pick a stain you like and make it happen.  After staining I had my wood clear coated by the painter of my car so it has held up to UV well.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

Jonny B

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2006, 16:23:01 »
I would agree that 3 grand is an outrageous quote. Use the search feature and I am sure you will find a number of strings regarding the wood. Replacement sets are available. And I would agree with Jeff, getting the wood trim out, really the drivers side is the worst, is the thing that can try ones soul.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

John C

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2006, 17:36:18 »
Wood is outof the car.  It's in very good shape, and I wasn't planning on doing anything to it until a friend said that as long as the windshield is out, I should look into having the wood redone.  I'll probably just put it back in;  anything I can do to it myself (or have a painter, not a "restorer" do) in order to spruce (no pun intended) it up?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Also, are the antennas with th "H" symbol on them available?
The $15 antenna from Miller looks a little cheesey.
Thanks.

bjudd

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2006, 18:06:27 »
John,

I'm just finishing my wood.  The #1 thing to remember is that the veneer is 1/64th of an inch thick.  Use very fine grit sandpaper (200 max) or steel wool with the grain.  Remember to do all the parts.  I realized this weekend that I had set aside the speaker grill and finished only the dash bows and tray.  Now I have to stain and varnish again!  I'll post the materials I used when I get home.  I am very happy wih the color.  Total cost: about $20!

bjudd
1969 280 SL 5 sp

John C

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2006, 18:15:33 »
bjudd,
Thanks for the reply.  I look forward to hearing from you.
John C

JPMOSE

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2006, 18:22:26 »
Heritage in North Carolina can refinish your wood to perfect original appearance for less than $500.  They are HIGHLY respected and will receive glowing recommendations if you ask.  Of course you will have to remove the wood first, but a competent Mercedes shop that has experience with Pagodas should be able to do that at a fair and reasonable cost.  The only challange are the two surround pieces behind the windshield.

Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
Best Regards,

J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1970 280SE 3.5 Cabriolet
1987 560SL

MarkW

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #7 on: February 28, 2006, 21:21:21 »
If you decide to refinish the wood yourself.  Do NOT use sand paper.  The veneer is very thin and easily sanded through.  Use a liquid stripper to remove the old finish.  Lacquer thinner or MEK works good.  Stain and finish is simple.  Th suggestion to have your painter shoot them with clear coat is a good idea and will hold up longer than any cler wook lacquer or varnish.

Mark A. Whitehair

Khurram Darugar

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2006, 04:54:44 »
John,
     If you have the option you may want to use a laquer that has a hardner....its more durable and more resistant to dings.  If using hardner, spray if possible.  As Mark said Liquid stripper is the least abrasive way to strip.  Apply enough of it and the finish should just glide off.

The speaker grill is a bit tricky to get right.  This is because it was originally finished in two parts and then assembled.  ie the grill and the base.  It is awkward to rub down the part where the grill meets the base due to access and this area also attracts laquer build up if your not carefull.

Kay

Kay
Euro 280sl LHD Auto.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2006, 04:59:15 by Khurram Darugar »

Ben

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2006, 03:31:16 »
$3000 !   WOW !

I think Millers sell a kit for about $500 !!

SLS in Germany sell the RHD kit for about €600 AFAIK !

I took my wood out in about 1 1/2 hours, not a big deal!

My problem now is that the veneer has cracked and chiopped in places, I'm wondering whether I can fill it and shave it before smooting it down and laquering ?

Also as per the "Total Restore" video does anyone know where one could buy a veneer kit and is it really as simple as the guy makes out on that tape ??   I doubt it !

Anyone re-veneer themselves !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

Markus

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #10 on: March 02, 2006, 19:12:04 »
 :) If the veneer underneath the old finish is in good shape, this is a job you can do yourself for very little money (about $50.00) and has been the most rewarding project thus far, on my 280sl. All items can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes. You need: Small can of mild kleen strip paint/ varnish remover, bag of 0000 steel wool, chemical gloves, and eye protectant, cheap brush to apply stripper,can denatured alcohol, package tack rags, small can Min-Wax Mahoganey stain, small can Hellmsman Spar Urethane (flat, semi gloss or gloss depending on your preference) , one high quality brush 1 or 11/2"   1) Mark placement on the underside of the 3 speaker grill dividers.(the stripper will dissolve the glue holding them together anyway and thats fine, its easier to work with individual pieces and reassemble when finished)
2) Remove staples from underside of center console floor, and save. (stripper will also dissolve glue holding floor in place)
3) Protect yourself and apply stripper (to one piece in an inconspicous spot, like the forward lip of the speaker grill), wait proscribed time and wipe off with steel wool. Spot reapply as neccessary. Never sand , or rub vigorously with the steel wool to remove difficult spots, as other members mentioned the veneer is ultra thin.  If confident with results, and your abilities, you can finish the remaining pieces one or two at a time.
4) Lightly spray down stripped pieces with denatured alcohol to remove stripper residue, and lightly spray with compressed air, allow to dry completely.
5) Inspect for damages or cracks,  lightly wipe any rough areas with the 0000 steel wool.
6) For desired stain appearance, use the one solid piece of mahoganey on the underside of the center console tray immediately forward of the ashtray for a test strip area.  Mine required 4 coats of stain to achieve the correct OE shade the car came with.
7) If ready to stain, wipe off pieces with a tack rag, apply and reapply stain as per manufactor directions.
8) When ready to top coat with Spar Urethane, wipe with tack rag again, and using the quality brush apply and reapply clear coat as per manufactors directions, (I used three coats), and voila, c'est magnifique, ausgezeichnt, maraveousa!
Oh I forgot, reassemble the pieces that came apart during stripping with glue, and reinsert the staples on the console tray. Have fun and you will be amazed at the results.

Mikapika's 280sl



Ben

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2006, 06:42:48 »
Thanks for that comprehensive reply Markus !

Q: What is the veneer is already cracked or damaged ?

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

Markus

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #12 on: March 03, 2006, 09:57:43 »
 :) Good question!  My dash wood was in good shape so I didn't have to re-veneer or fill cracks. Perhaps a member who has rehabed with new veneer, or filled cracks with positive results can enlighten/share their experience.  It seems your other options would be to outsource the job, or get some serious practice first experimenting on old junkyard Mercedes scraps, with a woodworkers "How to" manual.

Mikapika's 280sl

J. Huber

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #13 on: March 03, 2006, 14:16:22 »
In some cases, the dashboard wood is beyond repair. Mine was. I opted to buy the unfinished variety from I think either Old Star Quality or Miller's. Then I stained and varnished it myself. Came out nice for my tastes -- not quite as high-gloss and glass-like as a few originals I've seen -- but not bad.

James
63 230SL
James
63 230SL

Cees Klumper

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #14 on: March 03, 2006, 14:44:48 »
I've done veneering of my '69 Triumph Spitfire dashboard. Mind you, this was only a flat surface, but it was amazingly easy to do. I just glued the (thin indeed) burl wood veneer onto the plastic original dash pieces using contact cement, I then used a razorblade to cut out the openings for the gauges and to trim the excess wood around the edges and then applied a few coats of lacquer. It looked like solid pieces of burl wood, beautiful.
To shape the veneer to follow the contours of the dash pieces, I would ask the shop where you buy the veneer, or check some other source (a how-to book on woodworking? Google?). Probably steam or other form of moisture will be involved. If you have old pieces that are otherwise toast, I would try one just to see what happens. More likely than not, for a fairly modest amount of money (the veneer was not expensive I believe) you will achieve a fine result.

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
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1983 Porsche 944 2.5
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Chad

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #15 on: March 16, 2006, 19:38:51 »
Has anyone ordered wood trim from Heritage Woodworks?
How satisfied were you with the product and its fit, would you recommend them?


http://www.heritagewoodworks.com/W113NewWood.htm
« Last Edit: March 16, 2006, 19:39:59 by Chad »

Mark in KS

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #16 on: March 16, 2006, 19:50:23 »
I used Heritage Wood Works 2 years ago.  They are the best folks in the country for dash board wood.  With that said, getting your dash wood repaired or replaced is not cheap.  However, many people say that beautiful wood on the dash board is one of the most notable traits of our cars.

n/a

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #17 on: March 17, 2006, 19:53:48 »
Dear John,

$ 3,000 is outrageous...I bought a phenominal wood set on ebay for $600. You could probably have all your wood redone for under $1,000. I recommend "Madera Concepts" in California. They did a great job on all the wood in my Rolls Silver Spirit for $2,000. Turnaround was 1 week.
Go to
http://www.maderaconcepts.com

Good luck.
Regards,
Joe Bango
 :)

Ben

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #18 on: March 20, 2006, 06:35:43 »
I just got a quote to re-veneer and re laquer as per the original for €275 !

I'm sending the wood this week !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.

70chevelle

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #19 on: March 20, 2006, 09:29:57 »
A local furniture refinisher could probably give you good advice, and/or also "dip" the pieces if appropriate.  This would give you  clean, ready to finish pieces for a reasonable cost.  He could probably refinish them to an almost stock looking appearance, if you didn't want to attempt yourself.

70 Chevelle 13.7 @ 99.7
70 280 SL Silver/Black top
05 C230 Kompressor
03 Dodge Durango SLT

John C

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Re: Dashboard wood
« Reply #20 on: April 22, 2006, 07:28:10 »
Not wanting to use my dashboard wood for my very first wood restoration project, I opted to have Heritage Woodworks do the refinishing.  I am very pleased with the results, and the folks at Heritage were very easy to deal with.  If anyone was on the fence (as I was) about spending so much ($475), I have to say you don't realize how badly your wood needs refurbishing until you have it done.  Mine was in what I considered to be fairly decent shape (dull, but with no peeling), but, after seeing how good the restored wood looks, I realize leaving the old wood "as is" would have detracted from the new paint job.